So I was really excited about doing this NSX, this is a 1992 Grand Prix White NSX, a very rare color. they only made 300 in 1992 of this color. and This car was #209 out of the 300.

I started off with my normal routine on removing all dirt and any wax's or sealants on the paint surface. Honda clear coat is a VERY soft clear coat so I knew that I was in for some bad defects. Unless these cars are properly maintained, then it is real easy to marr up the surface.

Lets take a look at what I arrived to.



















I began by spraying some Stoners Tarminator to remove the bugs and tar off the paint.



After that, I began to pre-spray the car off to dislodge any grit and prepare the surface for a good wash job.



My weapons of choice for the Prepping the car


5 gal bucket
Grit Guard
100% Sheep skin wash mitt
Dawn ultra concentrate
EZ detail brush small and large
Chemical Guys Diablo wheel Gel 3:1 ratio
misc wheel brush
spoke wheel brush
lug nut brush
P21s polishing soap
Clay magic blue fine Claybar
other misc bushes







The engine and front and rear trunk were really nasty. I used some APC, and red degreaser and scrubbed them using various brushes.











All areas were dressed with 303 aerospace protectant.











Next were the wheels. 17" for the front and 18" for the back Volk GT-N's



These wheels were absolutely horrid, these have been neglected for such along time, that getting them back to new wasn't going to happen. So I used some P21s Polishing soap along with some fine steel wool.













So I pulled the car inside and started the second stage of the prepping



I clayed the car using both the Blue Fine clay and Red Medium clay, Some areas were just to ruff for the blue fine.



Some areas had Really bad Rail Dust.



which needed some Red Clay





After the Clay step I began to tape up the car and all of the jams





I took measurements of the paint thickness and the scale was all over the place with low 5's to mid 8's












Now for the paint correction.

This paint was very soft and not to hard to level out.

Weapons of choice:

Flex 3401
Griot's 3" polisher
Rotary with various backing plates
Lake country Hydrotech pads (Cyan/Tangerine/Crimson)
Meguiars M105/M205
Black Fire Wet Diamond (Last step product)















This roof had some REALLY bad scratches and some pretty deep swirls




I decided to wet sand the deeper scratches on the roof using 1500 Eagle Bufflex disc dry sanding, and followed it up with 3000 grit wet sanding.

Then I Buffed it out with my Rotary buffer using a Lake country purple foamed wool pad on a meguiars W66 backing plate.



Followed up with 3000 grit.



then buffed it all smooth with Meguiars M105 compound and PFW pad via Rotary, then polished it with my FLEX 3401 and M205 Tangerine pad so there wouldn't be any swirls



The whole roof was wet sanded with 1500 then 3000 to remove 95% of the defects.




Next were the were pillers, These always show a lot of swirls and are at the most visible level on a car for a person to see.





I taped off a 50/50 to show the dramatic difference between the before and after





There were still a few little pits on the surface from acid rain over the past 18 years but overall came out great.

I used a Rotary buffer with a 3" Gloss it backing plate and a 3" Lake country Cyan pad. The Flex just didn't cut it hard enough being such a small tight area. after I leveled it out with the Rotary I polished with the Flex and M205/Tang pad.





now on to the back, the horizontal panels get the most sun and the most environmental damage from acid rain and the sun, bird poop and all of that, so my cyan/M105 combo didn't get the level of correction that I was looking for, so I upped my cutting ability a little by using the Purple foam wool pad to really give a good cut, but finish down amazingly.




I worked my way around the car from the pass. fender to the driver side. I was almost done going on Midnight.



After All of the compounding stage I polished with M205 and the lake country Crimson Ultra finishing pad



Then I applied the Black Fire Wet Diamond Sealant with a blue finishing pad via Flex 3401



The car was mostly finished up arround 12:30am, I had a few small things left to walk around and check, like the windows and jams all those small things. from 8:30am to 12:30am so 16 hours night 1 and then 2 more hours the next morning.













So the Next morning I woke up and took care of a few small things before the final pics were taken.

The insides of the door handles were severely scratches by fingernails over the years



I used some M105 on a Microfiber towel and rubbed the area until they were mostly gone.





NOW FOR THE FINAL SUN SHOTS from the next morning!!!!!! Drum roll please............














Just in case you forgot what It looked like before. here is a second glance


























So while I was there I did a quick ONR wash on the Pontiac Solstice in the back ground. after the wash I applied a coat of Black Fire Wet Diamond











Thanks For Viewing!!! Have a Blessed Day!!!!

 

I am consistently surprised by the amount of correction you get on these cars. Simply awesome work. You gotta do my TSX. It'd be worth it for me to drive to Tennessee and spend the weekend to get this done.

 

let's do it. there is a guy in Pensacola, F that has a Viper he wants me to do, but thats a LONG trip! and there are dudes that can do it for you down there, but they are Expensive!

 

bro you come to ft lauderdale do let me know.. id love you to do my evo i bet you can make it look great!

 

Wow, Bravo! That's some Blessed Detailing. I envy your work, it is very Inspiring. keep up the great work!

 

after seeing what you get with the hydrotech pads, they are going to be my next purchase i need new pads soon my CCS pads are almost shot

 

This man detailed my '94 teg with oem paint and for the price, my mind was blown! I recommend him to anyone wanting a quality detail job at a good cost. Eric you going to be able to do my car again before IA?

 

I am always very impressed when i come into this area... this is no exception. outstanding work. very admirable.

 

You are killing it with the detailing.

Next year when I do my Tail of The Dragon trip I think I need to look you up.

 

that's absolutely incredible! I was hoping to see a final shot with the volks...

 

Very nice Tru Shine... Love that car!

 

Awesome work. I love how you document the process with pics and explanation.

 

Thanks everyone

 

Very good work. You can see a night and day difference.

But why didn't you mound the aftermarket wheels?

 

The owner decided to get them re-coated a different color.

 

Pandaman. Wow. I'm blown away incredibly amazing work. Do you mind if I ask you some questions?

 

Sure, go for it!

 

So not til the past 2 years have I known anything about claying, polishing or glazing. So I consider myself pretty fresh to the scene. I'll have to take some pictures of my car, but I own a 98 prelude, its san marino red. I have some pretty noticeable oxidization on the roof of the car and on the bumper. I use meguiars 7 glaze and apply and remove over and over and never have any results. I apply it in fast hard and small circles and let sit for approximately one minute before I remove. But still I don't see any difference. The car has been garaged all its life and the rest of the paint is near perfect. No other faiding issues whatsoever. Also I own a seibon carbon fiber hood and trunk. These things are a pain, well at least the hood of the car is. I glaze it too and have to do so about every 3-4 car washes. The oxidization/fading on the carbon is constantly returning, not drastically but it comes back noticeably. I would really like some good advice on what to do about the red fading on the roof and rear bumper, and how to keep the carbon fiber in good looking shape. This is my method in this order. Wash(Meguiars NXT 2.0)>clay(Mothers Clay)>glaze(Meguiars 7)>wax(Meguiars NXT 2.0). I'm really devoted to getting my car clean and doing whatever it takes to make it look better. If you want I'll take you some pictures of specifically I'm talking about. Thanks so much man!

 

Also, kind of a funny question/clarification. My friends always ask me "Why dont you drive your car in the rain?!" I try to explain to them how awful the dirt and grime from the road is that gets all over your car etc etc. But they never listen. Can I have your opinion on why rain truly is that bad for your car?

 

 

Great Effing job.
Can I ask how much you would charge for a job like that?

 

I've read and re-read this post three times. I love it! What are those types of brushes you use? Specifically the one you're using on the nsx's gas cap?

 

I had no idea you were in Knoxville. Sending you a message...

 

I'm jealous and would love to learn on how I can apply this to my own car lol.

 

nice work!