After searching multiple threads I've still yet to come up w/ a solid answer.........

When placing the OEM quarter panel stickers 50% of people say to use a soapy solution and squeegee the sticker afterwards, 50% say to follow helms, clean w/ alcohol beforehand (I assume rubbing alcohol) and risk the bubble/crease/etc.

Anyone whos actually installed these have any thoughts before I apply the most expensive sticker I will ever buy in my lifetime?

 

I recently replaced mine...the old ones were a hassle to remove completely. I used a hair-dryer, credit card, soapy solution and sponge/scouring pad (took about 1/2 hour of scrubbing due to the residue left behind) to remove the old stickers. I even had to use a little "goo-gone." Then, after I got off as much as I could, I went over the area with rubbing alcohol. Finally, I used the hair-dryer again to dry the area. I applied the decals, and didn't really have any issues with bubbles. I know the decals are expensive, and I was really worried about bubbles and such too--but keep in mind that people won't be walking up with a magnifying glass to inspect your stickers thoroughly. I'm not saying you shouldn't avoid it, but from a distance, even if there were a few bubbles, it's not like they stick out like a sore-thumb unless they're really really bad (which, for that to happen, you'd have to do a pretty sh*tty job). The one on my driver's side actually ended up being slightly crooked (just enough to where you can tell), but it doesn't stick out that bad.

 

When I was at the body shop, I watched them put the decals on. They used the soapy solution and a squeegee.

 

Haha, 50/50 split again!

Thx for the replies guys

 

When I put all 3 of mine on, I just cleaned the area with rubbing alcohol and carefully stuck them on. I had more difficulty making sure they were perfectly straight then any problems with bubbles or anything like that.

 

Wow - too bad you had to go through all that to remove them. I used a special decal remover that was AWESOME. Got it at local auto parts store. It foams up and sticks while it dissolves the decal. Took a few coatings to completely get rid of it, but it was great!

In fact I need to replace my other side now, so I'll be using it again!

Steve

 

EPIC FAIL!!!!

Just put the OEM sticker on and because I didn't use a soapy solution if you don't get it PERFECT the first time you're sunk. Lining the decal up parrallel w/ the body line is more difficult than it looks.

Sticker came out crooked as ****. Now it's back to the stealership for attempt #2 after I find a way to remove the first attempt

 

I used soapy water and lined them up with the body lines. It was really easy. Those are pretty expensive to have to do it twice.

 

Can you explain exactly the steps you took, I need to spend $50 for a new decal, and $50 in supplies to get the bastard off and I really don't want to do this again.

Much appreciated

 

Man, placing decals is such a tedious process... especially when they're this expensive. How is it that it looks dead-on as your placing it, but then you step back to take a look and its so obviously off-line? I feel your pain on this one. Went through a similar situation when placing new decals on my freshly painted TE-37s. Hopefully you'll have better luck with round 2!

 

I just recently did this so here's my method. On the back of the sticker there is white backing paper (at the end of each side there are precut strips you need to peel off). I ripped off about 2.5" on each side of the white paper, without exposing the actual ITR sticker. Now what you should have is the top layer with 2.5" adhesive exposed on each side (which is basically masking tape). Under the first layer is the ITR sticker then the white paper backing.

Use the top edge and align it with the middle body line and the curved edge to align with the rear wheel well. The curved edge wasn't perfect for some reason on my sticker so i just used it as a guideline and mainly used the top edge. When you think you have it aligned right, place the sticker on the body using the 2.5" ends. So it should only be held with the ends at this point. Take a step back and make sure it's straight, you can still see the lettering through the first layer.

When you're happy with how it looks, lift the sticker up so now it's held only by the right 2.5" side of the first layer. Carefully remove the white backing layer and now you're left with 2.5" of that first layer that's holding on to the body and the ITR sticker under it. Use a credit card/driver's license to press the sticker on the body little by little. I used a back and forth diagonal motion, this ensures there are no bubbles behind the actual sticker. Do this all the way to the end, then remove the first layer using a diagonal upward direction, this ensures the ITR sticker doesn't lift up with the first layer.

That's all there is to it, and of course make sure the area is clean before putting it on. I ran into zero problems this way. No need for soap and water.

 

VERY informative post, kudos to you and thanks

My question is why cut out the 2.5" strip on the side opposite the wheel well when you're going to only use the wheel well side to hold it in place? Am I missing something?

 

Just to have enough adhesive to hold in place while you align it. If not, the strip they normally leave you with can slide off due to your fingers touching or whatever, then it'll hang off and only be held by the fender side. I just did it to make sure it was held securely to the body while I align it.

 

So sounds like you had both sides stickied to the body, aligned it, ripped rest of backing off (while both sides were still attached and perfectly aligned) and then used a CC to iron out the air bubbles? Correct?

Also have you noticed that the lower indent on the decal template doesn't line up w/ the fenderwell when the top is flush w/ the bodyline?

 

Not exactly. After the sticker was aligned, I lifted off the left side so the white backing can be peeled off, but still being held on the body by the right side 2.5" strip. This way, as I apply the sticker it is still aligned properly because I never really removed it off the body, get it? And yes, the fender side alignment marks were off on mine, that's why I just used the top edge.

 

Sounds good man. I'm gonna remove attempt #1 and use this technique to get them aligned correctly. I appreciate all the replies and explanations

 

No problem, I would hate to see someone screw it up a second time and spend the money for another expensive sticker

 

Yeah, they're running me about $50 a side at the local stealership.

And to add insult to injury they adhere like nail polish to the paint, when you try and peel it, they simply chip away. I guess it's time for the heat gun and some goo gone