i want to build a d series to walk all over my friends b series. i want to build a y8 and drop it in my hatch. i already have a mini me so... lets hear some ideas

 

Idea number one!!! Use the search feature lots of answers there

An more info on what you want to do, do you want to go n/a or boost??

 

if boost i love my setup all tho mine is not on boost yet

fresh mircopolished crank
stock OEM honda bearings (plasti gauged)
eagle forged rods
forged Je pistons
Arp 2000 rod bolts
Arp headbolts

with correct quality turbo kit will make 400+ and walk alot of b's

 

I want world peace and an end to hunger everywhere.

 

i second his setup. whats the mircopolished crank?? cus im building a d too

i would also build the head tho. supertech valves, retainers, and springs and maybe a zex cam or bisimoto

 

yea i plan on building my head but had a set back ATM and mircopolished crank just makes everything sliky smooth and brings all journals in spec with each other so u dont have to run diff rod bearings

and Bisimoto 2 cam all the way

and if u can afford it i highly recommend a knife edged crank takes off SO much rotating mass

 

I have a Built D16 and I walk all over B series!!!
D16Y8 Block
Z6 Head
Y8 Intake Manifold
SCAT Forged H Beam Rods
YCP STD Bore Vitara's
Block Honed, Notched, Tanked, Ovened
Micropolished Crank
Klevite Bearings
Balanced Rotating Assembly
Mild Cam
8lb CBHaus Chromoly Flywheel
EX Tranny
Tuned on eCtune (Chipped P28 w/ Conversion Harness)
Ebay T3/T04E .50 Cold,.63 Hot
Ebay "JDM Sport" Intercooler, BOV, Cast Iron Log Manifold, Piping, Couplers
Ebay Knockoff TiAL WG
Been running it for over 15k Miles now. Perfect compression. 13PSI Daily. About to go get retuned on 22PSI.
Currently Running DSM 450s, but upgrading to PTE 680s for 22PSI.
20-25MPG City, 30+ Highway.

When I went on the dyno I made 270WHP, but my wastegate fitting was leaking, so IDK how much boost that was on since the MAP was reading 13.5, but it was def more than that. Which is why I am going back to get tuned 15k miles later now that I've worked out all the bugs

After all I've been through, If I had a chance to go back to square one and start over again, I would have chosen the D again. The TQ that it makes is very nice for daily driving and the car sits like a **** when I punch it

 

how much tq did u make at 270 whp????

 

220 or 230 idr.

The thing is though that its not all up high. It starts down low. Which is good for daily driving.

 

yea the complete setup i am wanting to run DD is around 440whp and makes 330 wtq or something like that


D FTMFW

 

thats a ton of power for DD. I am going to be making somewhere between 300 and 350WHP. Which I think will be enough, because it will be a car capable of low 12's to mid 11's depending on driving and tires

 

very true but s300w/ boost by gear makes everything equal for DD

 

i made 438hp on this setup..with 312lb.torque daily driven..
d16y8 head
zc block
vitara pistons
eagle rods
clevite bearings
edged crank
.20 bore blue printed and honed block
crower springs
crower retainers
stock valves (people under estimate oem big mistake)
cometic head gasket
hondata intake manifold gasket
ngk cold plugs
750 injectors rc
aem fuel rail
aem fuel filter
2 walboro 255 with dual pump connection kit with larger power and ground cables to power pumps...(very important)
innovative mounts
skunk 2 pro manifold
ebay .63 ar t3/t4 hybrid turbo with greddy internals 23 lbs of boost
b&m fuel reg
cast manifold
crower cams
skunk2 cam gear
gates timming belt
new oil and water pump
vafc neo/hondata s300
findanza axles....goodluck whith your build...

 

You're half right. Polishing the crank is good to finish the surface finish of the crank journals, but you don't want to polish a crank to set your bearing clearances. That's what grinding is for. Polishing can maybe get you a few tenths, but the more you polish, the more taper and out of round you introduce into the journals.

 

right ^^ i was just giving idiot terms lol

 

d series FTW

 

damn what stage cams?

 

its like a stage 4.. custom made by crower...theres a shop called race engineering in north fl,they can have some parts custom made to specs of vehicle...i paid $659 for it..well worth it though..

 

yea because thats insane power for 22PSI on an ebay turbo, even if it has garret internals, unless ofc you made the internals alot bigger when you had it rebuilt.

 

all motor setup
d16z6 head (port polish)
d16z6 bottom
d16a1 pistions
arp head bolts
arp rod bolts
ls forged rods
oem waterpump
8lb flywheel
stge 2 comp cams
skunk2 cam gears
cometic head gasket
hondata s300
vtec control
h22a injectors
y8 manifold(port polish)
stage 2 clutch
ex trans
type r thortle body
comp cam valvetrain
225whp 175ftlbt

boost setup

t25 turbo
tial BOV & wastegate
hf manifold
ebay piping
saab intercooler
stage 2 axles
vitara pistons
ls forged rods
cometic head gasket
oem crank
oem waterpump
walboro fuel pump
600cc rc injectors
stage 2 comp cams
skunk2 cam gears
LS/b16/b18c/b20/type r throtle body(it will fit)
stock sleeves
stock bore
hondata s300 2-step vtec control
14-18psi

you gonna push about 300+ on pump 93 octane


GOOD LUCK......i have both setups & both of my cars rape all my boys b16/b18c/b18c5/lsvtecs all day long.......

 

wtf how did you make 225WHP with just pistons, port and polish, and cams. LSVTEC's dont even make that much with a mild build like that.

 

you run hondata s300&tune it to the max...you gonna run 225whp...its nice for all motor setup.....

 

well i still think its alot for a D16 all motor.

 

IDK about 225 all motor D i ran 13.5:1 on a gsr and a ITR head with Sk2 pro 1's and made 202 untuned i am sorry i have to call BS on this number

 

I call bullshit til there is proof. I have a buddy who did a fully build D16 with 13.5:1 compression, stage 3 cam, PNP, intake mani, all that jazz and still didnt make what a properly tuned ITR swap makes stock.

Proof or GTFO