ok so i got a 92 eg swapped with another d16 but i cant get spark. i got fuel and lots of it just no spark. i tried everything. i switched ecus nothing . switched dizzy's nothing. spark plugs wires cap and rotor. nothing. i even pulled the main relay with a another and nothing still. fuel pump is working i can here it when i turn the car on it humming. when i disconnect the plug of the dizzy and read the voltage im only getting 10.5 volts is that good. but when i stick the lead on the black and yellow wire and ground out to the battery i get 12.1 volts so am i suppose to get 12 volts? or 10 volts is fine. i don't know where else to check im going nutts over this situation. also i checked all three grounds the thermostat ,the one to the trans and the one to the engine block and they are fine. also even replaced whole engine harness and still same problem. what else am i missing thanks. i want to get this hatch out of my garage

 

try swappin the coil

 

I swapped dizzys from working cars and still
no spark

 

Wow, that happened to me as well and it ended up being the coil inside the dist cap.

 

I too suggest the coil. If that doesn't work try running some extra grounds. You might stumble across the problem that way.

 

ok but would it be that the coil from a working dizzy be bad and also when i do the volt test i only get 10 volts is that what im suppose to get or am i suppose to get 12. what do you mean running extra grounds?

 

Please explain what the difference is between these two tests:

Have you checked the Yel/Grn wire that runs between the igniter unit and ECU for an open or short?

 

dude i have the same effin problem if u fix it please can u send me a private message and tell me what u did?
i would really appreciate it

 

where is that wire at. i unplugged the one of two wires that are by the dizzy the black and yellow wire. and then i plugged the volt meter and turn the key to the on position and read the reading and im getting only 10.5 volts. but when i ground the black lead to the negative cable i get 12 volts??? so am i doing it right?

 

^^^What did you use as the ground for this test? Try using a clean area of the thermostat. Do you now read ~12 volts?

As I mentioned, the Yel/Grn wire runs from the igniter unit inside the distributor to the ECU. Check for a short or open the wire.

 

i used the ground side of the battery and got 12 volts. and when i used the ground side of the thermostat i got 12. but when i stick the red lead in the black and yellow wire and the black lead in the next plug pin i only get 10 volts with the car on the on position?

 

As I mentioned, the Yel/Grn wire runs from the igniter unit inside the distributor to the ECU. Check for a short or open the wire.[/QUOTE]

ok so to check the igniter i have to open the distributor for that wire. cause im looking at my 2 distributor plugs and i don't see that color wire at all.

 

Voltage to the dizzy on the Blk/Yel wire is just fine. Ignore the 10V reading because I have no idea what the adjacent wire is in the plug and it is irrelevant.

 

Yes, remove the cap. The Yel/Grn wire is attached to the igniter unit.

 

ok so check to see if the igniter is working ok will do that right now.

 

check the fuses?

 

ok so i opened my distributor and measured the wire voltage and its nothing aint getting no reading. but when i measured the pin where the yellow /grn wire attaches to it read 12 volts. so is my yel and grn wire ****ed up?. also when you say measure from the igniter to ecu what do you mean?. i measure from the igniter and a good ground and got 12 volts from the pin that the yellow and green wire attaches to, no reading from the yellow and green wire at all?

 

all the fuses are fine did that three times already today

 

Im having the same problem my D15b wont start at all and ive replaced everything please tell me if you figure it out i need some help too.

 

What wire?

That voltage is fine.

That's also good.

When disconnected from the igniter unit, the Yel/Grn wire should have no voltage, so you got the expected result. You now need to test the Yel/Grn wire for lack of continuity (broken wire) or continuity to body ground (a short) between the two ends of the wire (igniter to ECU).

 

ok and if i dont get the buzzing noise then what next

 

Describe how you are doing the tests.

 

ok so i put the voltmeter to ohms and i put the red lead to the end of the yellow and green wire to the end of the distributor plug and it beeps. so then i moved to the next side from the yellow and green wire of the distributor plug to the plug on the strut tower and it beeps. so then i moved from the strut tower yellow green wire which turns to red and green on the ecu and it beeps. so am i doing it right. then i did the final test and put the lead on the red and green wire from the plug that goes in to the ecu and the other lead to the end of the yellow and green wire that goes to the igniter and it beeps as well so i know that i don't have any shorts or bad wires cause its making contact. so im all out of ideas i don't know what else there is to look at.

 

Good. Your test shows that the Yel/Grn wire is not broken. Now test for a short. Reconnect all connectors, but unplug the ECU connector where the wire pins and disconnect the wire from the igniter. Touch one probe to the igniter side of the wire and the other to body ground. If it beeps, you have a short.

 

how to i test for short on the voltmeter do i leave it on ohms or do i have to switch the voltmeter.