I was thinking of an engine swap before the end of the year. At the moment I was thinking B18A but the cost will be a lot and when I get it so I don't want it to break.

I know ZC have horrible reliability so I don't want any engine that has that.

Out of B18A, D16A6 or the VTEC D16s, etc...

What would be the best for me. I'm not a hardcore drag racer, I'm more about handling, but having more power than 92hp would certainly be cool. So what engine would suit me well. I hear only good things about A6s. With what bolt ons could I get it to maybe 15.0 or less. I would consider turboing them eventually to...

 

I suspect that you're driving a Dx hatch right? First thing is first, you must wire up your car to accept MPFI. You could do this right now, and get some valuable experience - or you could do it while you're performing your swap. If you wait and do it while you're doing the swap, things could get pretty messy. If I were you, I'd buy all of the necessary components for a DPFI to MPFI swap right now, and do that first.

But now on to your question. If I were in your situation - I would either go with the B18A, or a D16Z6, or D16Y8 (I prefer the Y8). A6's are weak, unless you do tons of work on them - P&P, high comp. pistons, new cam, too much money!

Go with the B18A for the ultimate project, this one will give you tons of power - defintely go turbo later on. You'll be easily pullin low 14's with a turbo, I'm positive you could get 13's with slicks.

The cheaper alternative is either the Z6 swap, or the Y8. I would go with the Y8 because it has 2 more high end HP, plus more midrange power than the Z6. It will also handle a turbo a little bit better due to the combustion chamber design (vs. Z6). The benefits of this motor is that it's nice and light. I heard that a Z6 block is lighter than a A6 block (just by a few pounds, not sure if it's true though), this would be excellent for handling, plus the Z6 & Y8's give you a nice amount of power.

Enough with my blabbering - go with a good condition Z6 or Y8!!! Use the savings on suspension, and engine bolt-ons!!!

Good Luck


[Modified by MrTodd, 7:46 PM 9/12/2002]

 

I'm pretty much done with my Suspension and Braking (or have at least compiled all the parts at my house to be finished soon) so thats why I am going to work on engine next. I was thinking B18A. I know a guy with a B18A EF and he never seems to have any trouble. I take it they are a nice engine. Where can I get one though because all the places I see never have the A, just Bs.

 

d16a6. reliable, and it responds well to modifications. bulid it into a sohc screamer. thats what im doing. but its just an overall great engine imo.

 

That's true, A6 isn't bad now that I think about it. But mine is just too slow! (I/H/E, Y8 intake manifold)

I'll agree with you on the B18's as well. Those are nice motors, I totally want to put one in my car, then turbo it. You're probably only going to be able to get a B18A from a person who is swapping out a motor on their old 'Teg. A B18B will work if it has a cable tranny - but you'd have to convert to OBD-1.... Just look around, maybe post an add on thepartstrader.com that you want a B18A. Someone out there has one sitting around.

Good Luck!

 

about how much would a b18a go for? longblock, ecu, tranny, all da lil stuf, axles too?

 

if you're more about handling then drag racing, then you could always use a B16a.. mine is my daily driver and a weekend autocrosser.. the problem with b18a's is that i believe, don't quote me, but i believe they are a tad bit heavier than 1.6's.. also, they are taller....

mind you, on your suspension setup, do you have the following:
bushings
swaybars
GOOD shocks (koni/tokico)
springs (tuned for swap? or standard?)
"ricer bars" heheee. strut bars.. i'd recommend neuspeed for uppers, and a cusco lower front, dunno about rear..

just a little check list..

 

I'd go with a d16z6 or y8 then you can turbo it later on. If you have no intentions of having "the fastest" car around I think it would be great. Its cheaper and you can turbo and hit high 13's with stock internals. I think it would be a good street racing/daily driver.

If you turbo it you can always sell the turbo kit and swap it later or something, if it ever blew/broke just throw in a new one for a few hundred bucks. Seems logical to me anyways, I am itching to start that as my next project as soon as some more money rolls around my way.

 

true.. i never thought of that.. it would be wiser to stick with a d series for weight purposes..

 

can you please list the mods you have now and your estimated hp/whp as well as your 1/4 mile time and what your future mods are

thanx for the help man

 

I have Poly bushings on some parts of my suspension (the ones you don't need a press for), I have a ST Rear Sway Bar, KYB GR2 Shocks, Neuspeed Sport Springs, and Neuspeed Front Upper and Rear Upper Strut Bars, and Neuspeed Rear Lower Tie Bar, and in the mail right now is my Cusco Front Arm Bar.

 

Lets say I went with a D16Z6 or Y8. How difficult is it to install it. I know it bolts in but what about wiring. I assume I can still use my stock axels and everything? I just need to convert to MPFI and then what about the VTEC?

 

b20. deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeefinitely....b20. yeah. b20.

 

For wiring you use the P28 ecu, convert the car to OBD-I using Storminmatt's guide, and you use your stock transmission and mounts, but you must modify the driver's side bracket so that it doesn't hit the timing belt. The sohcs are fast! Trust me! My brother's B16 CRX was only faster than my Y8 in 3rd. I would usually take him off the line.

 

At the moment I am thinking of a D16A6 Turbo. That would be a good setup, easy and no messing around with mounts and all that. How much would a Turbo for it run?

 

Mini-me! Probably the most bang for the buck. I have spent a total of $500 for a "new" motor that gets 36 mpg and high 14 sec 1/4 mile times. Dynod at 125 hp/ 111 lbs to the wheels.
I have a Y8 VTEC head from a 97 Civic EX, A6 block from my 91 CRX Si, AEM CAI, and the allmighty APEXi VAFC- that alone was worth 11.5 hp and 6 lbs!
All new gaskets, seals and head bolts, etc etc...
I wanted to do a B16A swap last year but it got too expensive, then I found out about this swap and love it (Though I'm still woring on the B16!)

 

Some misinformation floating around here i'd like to clear up about the B18A/B.

B18A and B18B are the same engine, the 90-91 B18A has about 10 less HP, mostly due to cams and intake mani.

A B18B will work just fine in you EF provided you swap over the appropriate electrical components. You'll want a 90-91 'teg ECU(pr4), dizzy and injectors. Also you'll need to swap out the B18A/B's engine wiring harness with your EF engine's.

I've got a mostly complete write up here. This should answer a good many of your questions, swap wise.

I think you'll enjoy the LS engine in you car. I had one swapped into my frist DX hatch and it was just plain nice to drive. Peppy and with enough torque to pull you along flawlessly in traffic and around town. A B20 would be just the same, prolly feel a bit better due to more torque. The thing I hate about my mini-me daily driver, is it's still gutless down low, feel like you have to beat the **** out of it to make it move.....

 

Actually, the B18A and B18B are similar engines. But not the same engines. The B18A came in two variants - 1990-1991 and 1992-1993. Due to more aggressive cams and fuel mapping, the 1992-1993 motor puts out 10 more HP. And while the B18B is similar, the differences between it and either B18A are more profound than between the 1990-1991 and 1992-1993 B18A. The B18B has a different head. The B18B head has larger intake ports and flows MUCH better than the B18A head. Likewise, it has a better flowing intake manifold to match the larger ports. As far as the ECU, it is tuned very similarly to the 1992-1993 B18A.

Speaking of the B18A, I should note that of your choices, the B18A is the only engine that has much of a chance of breaking into the 14's with just bolt-ons. It also has more torque, making it faster on the street.

 

I second the B20 suggestion!!! This motor may cost more than the others. But it is well worth it. It has more torque than anything else that you could easily drop into your car. And it has the capability to run with a B16A in the quarter mile. Add an LS transmission and you have a nice, reliable freeway cruiser that spins low revs, gets great gas mileage, and has more than enough guts to climb freeway grades without a downshift to fourth. And all this applies to a non-VTEC B20. You can always do the appropriate bottom end mods and add a VTEC head to bring performance into the stratosphere.

 

Man i wish i knew how to do an engine swap myself, i'd probably do a B18b or a B16 and build it right. Also keep in mind that if you want handling more than power, the B series engines weigh about 200 lbs more compared to a a6 engine. I could be a bit off on the numbers but i think i'm close. That 200 lbs will have a definite disadvantage obviously.

I think it just all depends on how fast you want to go and how much you want to spend.

 

Actually B's only weigh about 80 lbs more.

I really like my B16. Reliability has been very good. Started first try with no codes using Hasport Si to SiR wiring harness.

On the other hand, I have a friend that has kept his D16A6, and just with bolt on's, a chip and good tuning, has made a car that feels amazing. Straight torque curve, with as much torque as my B16a easily. Don't have to beat the crap out of it to make it go, but it is a blast when you do. He raced me 3 days after my swap after I did a little break in on my motor (who knows how long it sat?) I didn't know how to launch my car yet with the new power and trans (I believe this was his plan, he has done this to 3 people whose swaps he worked on) He whooped my ***. He still has a cam, VTEC intake manifold with modded to fit and ported B18 TB and a ported head to put on the car! He is rebuilding this winter again I believe. When he does, I believe he will have the power of a unmodded B16 easiliy. Pulled a 15.1 at the track too with just the bolt ons on street tires. Can't wait to drive his car when he is done.

I have 2 friends about to build MiniMe motors, but they are still just in the planning and acquisition stage. So I really can't comment on the feel of a SOHC VTEC in a ED/EF/2gCRX/4GCivic or whatever they are called this week.

I have heard the D16A6's have one of the strongest stock blocks that Honda ever made when it comes to handling boost. But don't take my word for it. I only considered boost for a while and dismissed the idea as too easy to do wrong and very costly to do right.

HTH.


[Modified by 91SiKen, 3:50 PM 9/17/2002]

 

I would have to agree...

 

I agree

That is exactly what I am doing. Should be just about done this week.

 

i've had a ZC and a B16 in mine. I don't have a complaint about either one of them. actually the only thing I don't like about both are the tranny grinds.

 

D16A6 is not as weak as some have said, its a very reliable engine and if kept well, it can hold some 6-8 psi of boost with good managment.