The a/c compressor clutch on my 97 civic has started slipping and making a heckuva noise. I've thought about replacing the clutch, replacing the compressor and clutch, or trying to repair the clutch.

Can I add shims to adjust the clearance and possibly fix this problem?

OR,

My parts supplier wants $100 for the clutch kit, or $295 for a new compressor and clutch.

I really don't think there is anything wrong with the compressor, but if I buy the clutch kit and do the work to replace the clutch then I am out $100, and I may still have to buy and install a compressor.

 

just get a used working compressor. make sure to remove old oil, flush the ac compressor using pag oil viscosity low, and then install it.

i got mine here at ht from mr.k24 for $65 and it is in great working condition.

 

Sounds like a bad pulley bearing. Maybe you just need to replace the pulley. You can measure the gap while you are at it. The work can be done without removing the compressor, if you don't mind working in a tight space.

 

Thanks for the input!

I'm going to take it apart this weekend. I believe that the noise is coming from the clutch plate slipping against the pulley.

The pulley turns full time. When the clutch engages against the pulley, the entire assembly is supposed to turn and turn the compressor via the splines on the shaft. What triggers the clutch to engage? I assume it's the electronic coupling ring, but I don't understand how that it works.

 

You don't necessarily need to do any of that. Have you pulled the clutch off yet and inspected it? There is a friction surface on it, and when it wears off, you'll get this problem. The pulley itself does not have a friction surface. The clutch is a disc that rides on the far outside of the pulley, and is held on by 3 bolts, as I recall.

The way it works, as I understand it, is that there's an electromagnet inside the pulley. When the AC kicks on, it engages the electromagnet to pull the clutch into contact with the pulley, thus engaging the compressor. When the friction surface starts wearing out, it starts squealing.

The reason the kit is $100 is because it comes with the pulley, the shims, and the clutch, when you may only really NEED the clutch. The pulley doesn't have a friction surface, and IMO does not usually need to be replaced.

Mine was making a horrendous squealing noise intermittently while the air was on. I went to the junkyard and pulled a decent looking clutch off of a donor car. Cost was $5. AC works perfectly now, and has been since last June.


Pull the clutch and check the friction surface. Mine was very noticeably down to the metal in one location. It takes about 20 minutes to get it off and look at it.

 

Thanks Vindicator.

I'm thinking that's what my problem is. I don't have very many junkyards nearby, so I may have to bite the bullet and pay for the kit.

 

craigslist.org
Or even ebay a used compressor, I got one for 50 bucks shipped

 

Any tips for removing this thing? I've been fiddling with it for 45 minutes and I can't get a wrench on it. I took the PS pump loose from its mounting and laid it to the side, but then I discovered there was only about 3/4" clearance between the clutch plate and the wheel well. And to complicate things, only about the top 1/2 of the center nut is visible above the plate.

 

OK. Decided to remove the compressor and pull it up and out so I could get the clutch detached. Just got back from the junkyard. Had to buy the whole compressor, but it'll be worth $70 if I can get some cold air on my way home from work.

 

Okay. Here's an update. I'll try to condense the story.

1. Clutch plate was slipping against compressor pulley.
2. Upon inspection, found that condenser fan was not operational.
3. Diagnosed bad fan motor and replaced. Clutch still slips.
4. Assumed lack of fan caused high pressure and caused clutch to slip. Clutch had apparently worn off too much abrasive surface.
5. Went to junkyard and bought entire compressor assembly.
6. Decided to only replace a/c clutch. Clutch still slips but only intermittently as compressor cycles on and off.
7. Assumed clog in system. Guessing dryer can or expansion valve.
8. Disassemble and replace dryer can and expansion valve and change o-rings.
9. Pull vacuum (after some difficulty) and verify no leaks.
10. Recharge with R134.
11. On first test drive, 20 A condenser/compressor fuse blows.
12. Troubleshoot and find condenser fan motor is pulling excessive amps.
13. Replace fan motor (again) with a salvaged motor.
14. All seems well. 44 degree output on highway!

One last problem.

Whenever I'm running the a/c and accelerate to about 3500 rpm, the a/c clutch slips. If I reach over and kick off the a/c the noise will stop, and it re-engages with no problem when I turn it back on after the rpms have dropped.

This seems like an indicator that pressure is getting too high. What could be the problem?

 

Can someone explain the proper operation of the A/C under hard acceleration or high pressure situations?

Is there a safety switch (other than the clutch) that will stop the compressor if system pressure is too high?

Is there any device that should disable the a/c system under a hard (>3500 rpm) acceleration?

 

Anyone?

 

There is a blow out disk on the compressor as a last resort. I had the same problem with compressor clutch noise on my a/c so I bought a rebuilt one for $150 few years ago. Took care of the problem.

 

 

Don't bump thread without a good reason.