HT need some imput...

I can go two different directions and just trying to figure which would be a more reachable goal....... I have a gsr hatch now and I was either thinking of building it for boost ( not a lot is my daily 300-350 hp) or just going with the new k swap k20a2.... I wanna keep my a/c which I know can be done for the turbo b swap or quite sure if you can keep it with the K swap..... So lmk which way you guys would run with this!!! thanks

 

hmm the kswap is expensive...very. and OBD2. to be fair i know little about K's.

id say if its just a DD just rebuild the GSR and boost it.

 

@ Red Army...after I build the b for boost and a turbo kit.... it would equal about the same price as the K into the EG

 

Yeah but ud be making 100 more horsepower with the gsr. BOOST is where its at!!

 

@ sr420det.... very true my only worry is the boost on a DD but then again I was thinking I'm building it....

keep the replies coming guys thanks

 

300hp on a tuned gsr would be very reliable. U wanna make sure it last, keep it under 120mph and ul b fine.

 

Id say if its your everyday car especially if you commuting go with the safer K swap. I mean your going to spend around the same amount of money boosting it or just swapping it. Unless your planning or rebuiling the internals on the b to make it a little more reliable running boost in an everyday car, Id say go with the k swap

 

@ sr420det.... yeah its my DD so thats why I was thing the K20 swap makes decent power from the factory and it's going in a eg hatch so will run real good....... any imput from some people w/ k swaped eg's

 

@ diversity... if I go with the boosted b motor it will get cp pistons/ eagle rods, and the vavletrain would be beefed up....totally rebuilt then add boost..... or just go stock k20 with I/E/H and hondata

 

Dude ur stock b can handle 300whp easily. there is no need to upgrade ur valvetrain to achieve even 500whp. Never had a K but Iv seen a few and they r badass but for the $ ul b pullin on them all day. I just sold all my b series stuff (still got a gsr block with ctr pistons) to turbo my lil D. 500$ in the block on a d and ur good for 400whp. Im a bang for ur buck type person

 

The only thing pistons will help u with is cracking ringlands. If u get a good tune and stick to 300whp U'll b completely safe. Get a j&s safeguard or something if ur worried about "reliability".

 

@sr420det... best bang for buck too bro....... but everyone I talk to says if I boost I need to beef up the vavletrain and also do cp pistons and eagle rods.... you telling me just do a stock rebuild and boost and it will be reliable?

 

@sr420det.... ok let me tell you what I have then maybe you can tell me what I need to buy........ I have a b18c5 block ( has blockguard) w/ gsr internals... gsr head...arp headstuds.....cosmetic head gasket...... skunk2 intake mani.... greddy headers.......If I do a OEM Type R rebuild and boost say 8 psi on a good turbo kit ( peak boost) will it be reliable... not trying to spend all this money for it to last only a year

 

anyone else care to chime in?

 

To be honest with you it would depend on how many pounds of boost you are running. If you boost the be and you are running anything more than 5-7 of boost your asking for problem with out upgrading internals. Say you ran CP pistions and eagle rods you are going to spend about 800 on that alone. Then those eagle rods are so beafy that, I think you have the notch the inside of the block for them to rotate properly. Then say you buy the skunk to mani and greddy or dc headers. Thats another 600 bucks. I mean in the end after all the internals you will be able to run 350 whp a lot safer in a DD. But you can run the K swap for the same price of inernals on the b and boosting, with out all the work and a lot safer for a DD. Besides those K20s are bad ***

 

please stop posting if you have no idea what your talking about. my buddy ran 14 psi (car spiked to 19 psi a few times as well) on a bone stock ls(car ran 11's) for quite a long time with zero issues. as long as the tune is good it will be fine. 300whp on a gsr would last as long as the tune is good. i have seen people make 500+ on bone stock bottom ends so 300whp is nothing. as long as you're not beating the hell out of it everyday you will be fine boosted and making 300 at the wheels

 

Y r u wanting to do a rebuild? especially with type r internals that will up ur compression? and y would u run that head gasket (which is thicker so itl take down ur compression) with type r pistons? just doesnt make sense. Ur valvetrain has absolutly nothing to do with holding reliable power. It wont become a restriction on a boosted b18c till 500+HP. Dont get me wrong upgrading ur valvetrain will help u make power. If ur motor is healthy now Id just boost it. Arp headstuds are a great idea, Id also consider a 255lph fuel pump. Id sell the header and intake mani (if its not installed) but itl definitly help u make power if u want to keep it. Run that gasket on the stock gsr and ul b gravey. Lower compression will help fight detenation big time. Ul need very good engine management (hondata, crome, ectune, etc...) and at least some 450+cc injectors. Then pay someone who knows what there doing and owns a dyno to tune it.

When i say "help u make power" I mean when boosting U can make the same power on less boost. Anything that increases ve will do this. IF u want to go past 300hp upgraded internals would definitly b recommended. All u would need for this is forged rods and forged pistons. Cp piston have a low silicon content so you'll have to run bigger clearances and faster engine wear. Id recommend something with a lil higher silicon content like srp...up to 500hp. Iv heard good and bad thing about block guards so u might want to look into that also but i'd just sell it cause its not needed.

Also another thing if ur so concerned about safety to look into is the J&S safeguard. It has individual cylinder ignition control and if it senses knock in a single cylinder, it will pull timing on just that cylinder and save ur motor. If u sell all the stuff i told u to sell ul have enough to purchase this. I think there around 500 bucks and ul have to install a knock sensor in ur block. This will save ur motor and b a great tuning tool, wish i had one...

 

its input not imput

 

@SR420DET was wanting to do a rebuild cause me and a friend of mine did it 7-8 months ago in my brothers car port. The motor runs good but was always told that if I decided to ever boost it that I should rebuild it. Everything on the motor has been replaced besides pistons ( has new rings and bearings) and the valvetrain ( had the valveseals replaced). Engine is healthy have a few leaks to address but healthy compreesion is goos all the way across. I was just thinking of haviing it rebuilt by a engine builder so that I know that it was done right. I put ARP head studs and the headgasket when I rebuilt it. The header and intake mani is on the car already. Should I just get a good quality boost kit, hondata, injectors and a good tune and i will be good?

 

AND thanks for you input guys

 

Yep just get that good tune and ur good to go. U running gsr piston right? sounds like uv already rebuilt it to me.

 

yep gsr piston/rods