Hello,i will installed the Turbo kit on my Type-R.I have the Eagle Rods,Wiseco Pistons 9:1,Cometic Headgasket,Moroso Oil Pan,ACL Race Bearings,Golden Eagle Block Guard,Hondata Intake Manifold gasket,ARP Head and Main studs,Hasport Engine Mount,Omni 4 Bar Map Sensor,Hondata S300,OBD1 P72 GSR ECU,650 Rc,Wallbro 255 Lph,Mugen Thermostat,Exedy Stage 2 Clutch 285 ft/Lbs,Half size Radiator with AC,Oil Cooler and 3" Cat back Exhaust.The Cylinder head & valves is Stock.I will to drive 400-450 WHP with Peak Boost turbo kit 3" Downpipe and GT30 Dual BB Turbocharger.I want sleeves the Block with Darton Sleeves? Or stock Sleeves with Block Guard is ok for 13-15 psi boost?Please let me know.Thanks guys

 

Which Oil is better for the Turbo Upgrade 5w50 or 10w60?I drive on NA Engine 3 years 5W50 Oil all is perfekt.is it good 5W50 for Turbo?

 

Sleeve it. Get rid of the blockgaurd. Get a Competition stage 4 or 5 clutch ( i prefer 5.. so you have room to grow). That exedy is **** and stage 2 will not handle for ****.

Also.. I would get 725cc or 1000cc Bosch injectors.

 

why didn't you sleeve it in the first???...its not how much your motor can handle...its HOW GOOD YOU CAN TUNE!!!! i seen stock blocks make 400-450whp NP...i will only sleeve a block again if i was going to push over 600whp

 

Hmm my Tune company I think is ok.I know not whether it is safe with the car,now and then i drive it Top Speed 165 Mph/270 Kph on the Highway :-/.It Think better is Sleeves the Engine so then there is no risk for the Engine.

 

watch those moroso oil pans. their crap! i have one on my turbo type r and you can only put 3 quarts of oil in b4 it starts to back up the drain line not to mention they put the drain bung in the worst spot.

you might also want to invest in a crankcase breather kit from endyne or z10 motorsports. i had a problem with too much crankcase pressure and it was causing the return to not drain properly and it was also causing tons of blow by resulting in the car smoking when i hit boost.

i solved the problem with deleting the "BLACK BOX" and pcv system and throwing in a breather kit. youll probally run into the same issues.

 

I've seen this also on a friends car. But where he had the worse problem was getting the thing to seal. It leaked no matter what we did to it! Also when you drain the oil it still leaves some of the old oil in the bottom on the pan because of the way the drain bolt is designed. It's not welded in far enough towards the bottom of the pan. Tap the factory pan and let it ride.

 

I had the Exedy Stage 2 clutch in my Turbo Integra RS. It was fine.

 

Ok thanks i have to buy Competition stage 5 Clutch,Darton Sleeves and RC 1000 injectors.

 

I try to with Moroso Oil Pan and small Filter for crankcase breather.Thanks

 

In my expeirence. CC was bett overall than exedy. They are a good product, but imho CC is better.

Id ditch RC and get the dynamic injectors or bosch. They run a lot better.. But then again I'm biased since i prefer bosch over rc's due to studys and shops running these instead of rc.

 

I have to 2nd the Injector Dynamics or the Bosch injectors. The RC ones do not have consistent flow rates as the ID1000 or the Bosch ones from the studies that I have seen hence I have the ID1000

AND...you can get a set of brand new set of 4 ID1000 for $450. Cant beat that...

 

Thanks Guys.Is the Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump strong enough for 500 Crank hp?Knows someone?

 

id have to say no. your probally going to need an inline pump.

 

I ran walboro 255 when I was at 350whp and 450whp on my setup and it ran fine. I'm assuming at 450whp it's over or about 500 crank so I think you should be fine

only thing is at 450whp I was on E85 but idk if that matters.

 

according to walbro's web site the 255lph's max out is good for up to 500whp.

its up to you what you want to do but if i was running something with that much power i wouldnt want to lean out and blow the motor. not to mention your cutting the life of the pump by running it at max output.

 

Which is the best HALF SIZE RADIATOR+12" Slim Electric Fan for Integra Turbo?

Thanks

 

im running a jvt radiator in mine and the only issue i had was that i had to make custom mounting straps to hold it in place. wouldnt reccomend jvt try mishmoto or koyo

 

ok i will to buy this Mishimoto Radiator+12" Fan is civic fits,also integra plug and play?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MISHI...Q5fAccessories

Thanks

 

This. I wish I had never sleeved my motor, such a gigantic waste of money.

 

the fan will work fine all you need to do is cut the plug off the old one and soider it onto the new wires. as for the radiator your going to run into the same issues i did. the civic rad mount tab wont line up on a dc2. hense the reason i went to home depot and got 2 chrome straps.

heres a pic of what i rigged up.......hey its not the cleanest install but it works

 

I don't know. I mean on my RS I had the option of just being able to go to the wreckers and pull any old B18B out for $300 and pay a couple of my buddies in beer to swap it out. Mind you I NEVER had to do this aside from the very first engine which blew up the second it saw boost. This is an ITR engine you're talking about though.. Two totally different animals. Better safe than sorry.

 

I'd agree it's overkill on a motor that mostly runs on the street and only briefs the 1320. I mean to each his own but I have no intentions on making more than 400whp max on my next build. But, if your building a motor to be a track junkie or increasing displacement, then sleeves are the way to go.

 

Thank you

 

where can to buy the good 3" catback exhaust for ITR?Knows someone?