Whats up H-T, I am in the process of building my poor mans type r engine. I have almost all the parts sitting in my garage that I need for the build. I still need to get a head gasket, water & oil pumps, cams, cam gears, timing belt and covers. That's about everything else I need besides taking it to the machine shop and letting them work their magic. I have a few questions tho.
Here is exactly what my setup is going to be:
PR-3 head
Crower valve springs
Crower retainers
Stock PR-3 valves
Blox type b cams (need to buy)
Skunk2 intake manifold
68mm throttle body
AEM fuel rail

B18c1 block
RS Machine 82mm PR-3 pistons
RS Machine piston rings
ACL Race bearings (need to buy)
GSR rods
GSR crank
RMF narrow style header
Blox test pipe
Greddy sp2 "B" pipe
T1R axle back
ITR tranny w/ 4.9fd
quiaffe lsd
F1 racing stg2 clutch
ACT light weight flywheel

Now on to my questions.
I still need to buy a head gasket for it. I know I obviously need to find one that's 82 mm for the pistons, but how thick of one will I need. Someone told me that I might run into issues with the pistons coming too close and possibly even hitting either the valves or the head or something. Is this an issue when using b16 pistons and b16 head? Do I need to buy a certain thickness head gasket to correct it?

What compression will I be running using a b16 head and pistons on a gsr block?

Also, when I take my stuff to the machine shop I need to have them bore the block to 82mm for the pistons, i guess mill the block and the head to make sure they are flat, polish the crank, install pistons rods and crank into the block, install valves, springs, and retainers into the head.
What else do I need the machine shop to do, or should have them do?

I can put everything else together in my garage (i.e. put block and head together, install cams and cam gears, water & oil pumps, timing belt, torque bolts down, etc..)

And of course since everyone want to know this when building an engine lol, around how much power should I be putting to the ground with this setup?

Also if anyone has any suggestions or think I'm doing something wrong or should do something differently I'm open to any and all suggestions. Thanks to everyone in advance.

 

How much lift do the Blox B cams have that you are using?

Compression will be about 11.2:1 to 11.4:1 depending on how much you deck the head.

I'd buy a valvespring compressor and install the valvetrain yourself you can get them about 70 bucks. Are they (machine shop) doing a valvejob?

 

The guy i bought the head from said that it had a valve job done on it but do you think it would be a good idea to have them do it?

 

good luck on your build

 

come on, some has to know about the questions i asked

 

1. Clay the motor if you are concerned about p2v clearance, might as well degree the cams why you are at it. It's cheap insurance. Make sure you clay using the vtec lobe. You should be save with the PR3's as they don't stick out very much compared to PCT pistons. If you clay the motor and find out there is p2v issues then you can use a thicker headgasket to correct the problem. What headgasket are you planing on using? I'd do an OEM 3 layer.

2. 11.2:1 to 11.4:1 as said before

3. The machine shop should also balence the bottom end for you. I'd have them check out the head to ensure a valvejob has been done, and that it's with in spec. Like I said assemble the head your self and save some money that can be used for a better header, tuning, ect.

4. 200 hp on a dynojet wouldn't be a bad start numberwise, but just throwing around numbers, you haven't stated many details other than expected compression, displacement, and cam choice. There are still alot of missing factors.

 

Yea i suppose i should have stated some of the other parts.
PWJDM carbon fiber intake
RMF narrow style header
RC 310cc injectors
will be tuned with neptune by jk-tuning in carlisle,pa

What other information could i really give? thats pretty much everything isn't it

Is it hard to install the valves, springs and retainers?

Also will i need to use a gsr or b16 timing belt?

 

you would use a GSR sized timing belt on the GS-R block. It is based on the water pump used.

As for power numbers; one thing at a time. get the motor together in one piece without any problems first. save the power speculation for the dyno day.

 

sorry over looked the header info. 200 wouldn't be a bad start, get it together and report back.

 

Good luck man. Keep us posted.

 

I pretty much have everything i need to take the stuff to the machine shop. I'm still waiting on my gsr rods and crower springs & retainers to get here. I'm still debating on if i should try to install the valve train myself to save some money or not. I just really don't want anything to be screwed up, but I also need this entire engine build to be as cheap as possible since I don't have butt loads of money to be throwing into it.

Could some just give me an entire list of everything i should have the machine shop do/check? I've never taken an engine to a machine shop, and since this will be my first true complete engine build, I don't really know what to have them check and make sure is fine and what not. I appreciate any tips/advice that anyone on here can give me because it is only going to make things easier and less stressful for me in the long run.
Here are some pictures of everything....



Here's whats in the car currently