all motor or turbo??? >_<
i'm seriously considering buying a 97 GSR with around 72k miles on it, it has had 2 owners, no accidents, and very well maintained. Now the only question is, do i go all motor or turbo charge it? arggggg i want to go turbo, but that's a pretty old engine... which do you think would be more reliable to do?? hell i could even buy an all motor integ for 10k, but that's no fun... thoughts and opinions welcome!!
97k miles on my gsr and slapped the turbo on.....
If you got 5k easy to blow then go ahead and get the turbo.
In my opinion if u want reliability go NA. dont get me wrong tho, you can have a reliable turbo set up, but its really all about the tunning and fuel managment.
If you got 5k easy to blow then go ahead and get the turbo.
In my opinion if u want reliability go NA. dont get me wrong tho, you can have a reliable turbo set up, but its really all about the tunning and fuel managment.
97k miles on my gsr and slapped the turbo on.....
If you got 5k easy to blow then go ahead and get the turbo.
In my opinion if u want reliability go NA. dont get me wrong tho, you can have a reliable turbo set up, but its really all about the tunning and fuel managment.
If you got 5k easy to blow then go ahead and get the turbo.
In my opinion if u want reliability go NA. dont get me wrong tho, you can have a reliable turbo set up, but its really all about the tunning and fuel managment.
97k miles on my gsr and slapped the turbo on.....
If you got 5k easy to blow then go ahead and get the turbo.
In my opinion if u want reliability go NA. dont get me wrong tho, you can have a reliable turbo set up, but its really all about the tunning and fuel managment.
If you got 5k easy to blow then go ahead and get the turbo.
In my opinion if u want reliability go NA. dont get me wrong tho, you can have a reliable turbo set up, but its really all about the tunning and fuel managment.
If your concerned about the motor, don’t do a turbo, its more then just the turbo alone and you’ll blow your motor or your turbo. I would get a late model ls for the same price and turbo that up. Not that I’m saying that a b18c is bad. but you could probably pick one up with lesser mileage. The compression lower and gear ratio is better on the ls. Or get a the least expensive Honda and drop in a crate b16 motor from dh racing with a huge turbo.
Your 4th option would be to get a Honda CBR1100 and buy a turbo from Hahn Racecraft, not too many people go with the 4th option.
¼ mile times for each option
1st: 14s’
2nd: 14.5s’
3rd: 12s’
4th: 8s’
Your 4th option would be to get a Honda CBR1100 and buy a turbo from Hahn Racecraft, not too many people go with the 4th option.
¼ mile times for each option
1st: 14s’
2nd: 14.5s’
3rd: 12s’
4th: 8s’
umm...all motor w/o heavy mods is weakkkk....and with heavy mods, it's no more reliable than turbo when running high compression w street gas. you won't blow ur motor unless u get boost happy, or don't tune it. b18c1 is fine for turbo just careful w the boost unless u biuld ur block. all motor is tight also don't get me wrong, but it won't have the raw power of forced induction.
btw: haha...i used to have a mild all motor setup with jun2 cams, sk2 mani, ecu, mildly ported head, portflow valvetrain...and then i found a supercharger new for cheap...and put that on (after getting rid of the Jun2's w itr cams and the mani)...i wont go back to all motor on a honda...the torque curve is way better. ehhe
[Modified by LOwrestling2001, 1:27 AM 9/13/2002]
btw: haha...i used to have a mild all motor setup with jun2 cams, sk2 mani, ecu, mildly ported head, portflow valvetrain...and then i found a supercharger new for cheap...and put that on (after getting rid of the Jun2's w itr cams and the mani)...i wont go back to all motor on a honda...the torque curve is way better. ehhe
[Modified by LOwrestling2001, 1:27 AM 9/13/2002]
Trending Topics
If your running a fully rebuilt engine 11.5+CP you wont have very good reliability either which is what it will take to equal a stock turbo system.
My friend put his turbo kit on his LS in Nov of 1999 w/112K miles on the engine (stock internals), its still on his car running stock boost with 191K miles, never had one problem with good maintenance, and has only lost 5 WHP since he first put it on. Are you trying to tell me that turbos are unreliable?
F/I is the way to go for a honda, the worlds fastest F/I FWD honda has the worlds fastest n/a FWD honda beaten by almost 2 whole seconds.
If you were to try to go N/A and get the same horsepower as a stock internal b18c engine with just a turbo kit from places like drag, rev-hard, f-max it would actually cost more money and take alot more time. You would need 100+ more WHP going N/A to equal that, which means you need full internal rebuild, and the money for labor and blue printing unless you can do the rebuilding yourself, this will cost well over 4 grand.
My friend put his turbo kit on his LS in Nov of 1999 w/112K miles on the engine (stock internals), its still on his car running stock boost with 191K miles, never had one problem with good maintenance, and has only lost 5 WHP since he first put it on. Are you trying to tell me that turbos are unreliable?
F/I is the way to go for a honda, the worlds fastest F/I FWD honda has the worlds fastest n/a FWD honda beaten by almost 2 whole seconds.
If you were to try to go N/A and get the same horsepower as a stock internal b18c engine with just a turbo kit from places like drag, rev-hard, f-max it would actually cost more money and take alot more time. You would need 100+ more WHP going N/A to equal that, which means you need full internal rebuild, and the money for labor and blue printing unless you can do the rebuilding yourself, this will cost well over 4 grand.
I have nothing against turbos, and Hondas are great engines for FI IMO, but I'd personally go NA. Just don't expect to leave the bottom end alone and get near FI times. Someone previously mentioned having all the head work and disapointed with NA, but the aggressive cams(JUN was mentioned) don't come into their own w/o high compression, and I didn't see increased compression on the list of toys. NA can cost as much as turbo, and there's definately a point of seriously diminished returns, but I think it's more rewarding and definately more reliable.
I was debating going all motor as well but the cost to build an NA motor was crazy compared to the deal I got on my JRSC and Im loving,.. it sure I won't get the respect of all people but to me it came down to FI being cheaper
IMO the only reason I would go all motor would be a 92-95 hatch...
IMO the only reason I would go all motor would be a 92-95 hatch...
either way do it right:
all motor...go all out, if not u will not be happy.
jun 3's or skunk 2, resleeved bored to 86mm ,rods , 12:1 pistons , port n polished head, new valvetrain, hondata, individual throttle bodies = sick!!!!
turbo:
u can have a fun setup but itll still end up costing 4 k
all motor...go all out, if not u will not be happy.
jun 3's or skunk 2, resleeved bored to 86mm ,rods , 12:1 pistons , port n polished head, new valvetrain, hondata, individual throttle bodies = sick!!!!
turbo:
u can have a fun setup but itll still end up costing 4 k





