I am needing my hub pressed out and the wheel studs replaced and then the hub pressed back in.

The thing that I am wondering is: Is it hard to put the knuckle back on after it is taken off? I see in the Honda shop manual that you remove the knuckle from the ball joints using a ball joint tool (i believe i can get one of these from a loan-a-tool program at a local parts store) but what I am confused about is, if you need a tool to take it off, do you need a tool to put it back on? And how hard is it?

I know it would be easier to just drop the car off at Honda and have them do it but Im into learning how to do things rather than have someone do it for me. I dont have access to a press so the part that I can (or think i can) do is take the knuckle off and put it back on.

Thanks for your time and any comments or suggestions are welcome!

 

You can use the ball joint remover tool, or just pick up a pickle fork. Thats what I did when I replaced my axle. Just make sure you buy a new axle nut and cotter pins for the ball joint castle nuts if your gonna be removing your knuckle.

And remember, pneumatic tools are your friends.

 

The axle nut? The big one in the center that needs 134ft-lb needs to be replaced?

If the knuckle hard to put back on at all? Or does the ball joints that were separated with the tool just slide into place easily?

 

axel nut is 32mm and yes you have to remove it also the brake caliper and saddle, upper and lower ball joints BFH will also work to knock them loose , and tie rod end . you want to strike the control arm to loosen the lower and hit the knukle on the curve bellow the upper knuck by the tie rod end. odd's are the wheel bearing will pull apart when the press out the hub ( outer bearing race almost always stays on the hub so it would be a good time to replace it at the same time shouldn't cost a whole lot more) and yes the ball joints and tie rod should slip back into place. might have to put pressure on the control arm to get the nut tight if the joint spins.

 

The spindle on the ball joint is a taper fit into the LCA. Make sure both parts are clean the should go back in without a problem. If the nut won't screw up the threads I put my jack under the LCA and raise it till the car just starts to lift from the Jack stand. Make sure you leave your self room to get you socket on the castle nut first. The pressure should seat the taper and lock the spindle enough to turn the nut.

 

I hate doing this because the race on your bearing is going to get stuck on the hub when you pull it out. In other words it will mess up your bearings if not inserted back in correctly within a month or two. I say you might as well replace the bearings while your at it. Good luck!

 

The hardest part is the ball joints, and sometimes axle nut

You should be replaceing the bearing, a thread on here a while ago and the guy did that and the bearings were gone in 3 weeks

 

you should not have to replace the nuts just the cotter pins

also i wouldnt suggest using a pickle fork on the ball joints and tierod end. alot of times it will tear the dust boot and you will lose all thve to grease in it and have to replace the whole balljoint....just my personal experience

 

Pickle forks are very hard on the boots. alot of times a couple good wacks of the lca/knuckle and they should pop out, for the tie rods, i have always been able to pull out with a good hit to the top of the tie rod.

 

These tools are perfect for removing the hub. Use it in combination:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=315387

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...productId=2050