Info on CR-VTEC swap

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Old Sep 12, 2002 | 06:21 AM
  #1  
charjacq's Avatar
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From: mtl, canada
Default Info on CR-VTEC swap

To those that know their hondas, what are the info I should know about doing the B20-vtec swap in my 91 civic? What are the things I absolutely need to do?
Say I start with 2 complete motor. A B16a1 and a B20. Which parts would be used in the final swap? Do I need to change the pistons? Rods? It could be a good idea since I am planning on going turbo, but do I absolutely have too?

Anyone know some good sites that talk about B20-vtec swaps?

I really need a lot of info on this, so please don't just ignore this message. I'm sure this info could be used by a lot more people.

Thanks
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Old Sep 12, 2002 | 06:49 AM
  #2  
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Default Re: Info on CR-VTEC swap (charjacq)

resleeve
pistons
rods
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Old Sep 12, 2002 | 07:23 AM
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Default Re: Info on CR-VTEC swap (eraser)

Please don't ignore the search function.

Any Honda motor requires the same preparation for turbo, whether its a B20, B18C, B18B, B16A, etc. I'm sure the search function will show the appropriate ways to build one up and the potential disasters if you don't.

An LSVTEC and a CRVTEC are nearly identical. Once again, the search function will show you what is needed.

A couple sites are http://www.crvtec.com http://www.b20vtec.com http://www.importbuilders.com
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Old Sep 12, 2002 | 10:38 AM
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Default Re: Info on CR-VTEC swap (badCRX)

i would always suggest building the internals, unless you are just doing a small amount of boost. the head will need to be machined to the bore of the B20 block, and you need the external oil feed line. that is just the beginning.
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Old Sep 12, 2002 | 01:57 PM
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metric's Avatar
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From: houston, tx, us
Default Re: Info on CR-VTEC swap (wreckedhatch)

actualy the bore on the cumbustion chamber does not need to be matched to the cylinder.
as you allready know crv's are 84mm and come from the factory with a 81mm combustion chamber.

as for parts you need to build the b20/vtec. they are crv head gasket. depending on the water pump you choose (gsr or b20) gsr wp requires a gsr t-belt and a b20 wp= b20 or ls t-belt. gsr head bolts. and yes built your bottom end for boost and i recomend arp studs for boost. if not at least run arp rod bolts.
good luck
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Old Sep 12, 2002 | 02:36 PM
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From: high point, nc, usa
Default Re: Info on CR-VTEC swap (2.0CR-XVTEC)

You dont have to have the head machined...its just like 2.0cr-x said...the sizes are different from the factory anyway. Im not trying to sway you from this idea...but boosted cr-vtecs arent really known for their reliability. The main reason for this is the fact that they have the absolute worst rod/stroke ratio of any engine ever...lol. Ive heard many horror stories about people blowing rods through their hoods because of this. I would keep it N/A...much more reliable and it will still be fast as all hell. But this is all my opinion...im sure people will disagree with me. Im just telling what ive seen and heard so other people might be able to tell you more about it. Good luck with the ***BEAST***...lol.

Sean
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Old Sep 17, 2002 | 06:27 PM
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Default Re: Info on CR-VTEC swap (sCeRaXn)

Yeap, I've actually changed my mind and I'll go NA. It's cheaper, safer, easier, oh and did I say it was cheaper? It's got to be either vtec or boost...I picked vtec...
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Old Sep 17, 2002 | 08:14 PM
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From: Poughkeepsie, ny, usa
Default Re: Info on CR-VTEC swap (charjacq)

build any engine right its wil boost **** a std hb motor could run 12psi with the right stuff

http://www.crvtec.com <------------ a really well laid out sight for this rare bastard of a motor the "sloth"(i mean powerful not slow) of the goonies of engines

that site kicks mullets ***

FUEL
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