I have a big problem. been having for almost half a year. This is how it began. As a novice, I did the timing belt on this car and unfortunately wasnt told there was a special crank holding tool. so the bolt was not tightened properly and a year later came loose, damaging valves. so we did the head, tb, wp, crank seal cam seal, and noticed the crank sensor was damaged. after all this the car would turn off on cold starts after the the revs got lower and lower. It will not immediately turn off because of the high rpms during cold starts, but when they came down it will turn off. After driving the car a few miles,the car will idle but only a small miss. If on a cold start I rev at 2 grand. There is a miss and on all cylinders and after a min or two, the fuel kicks in and revs fine, but because the car was not driven, it will turn off. The car has to be ran under load in order for it not to turn off. Replaced damaged crank sensor this week and still does the same. only check engine lights that light up are misfire on all cylinders and some weird ones (p1399, p1300). was told to check IAC but I dont thing that is the problem since it idles. someone told me to check the o2 sensor. was also told to check compression. If someone has had similiar experiences let me know what fixed the problem.

 

misfire on all cylinders could possibly be bad timing either mechanical or ignition timing being way off.
What are the other codes meaning p1399,p1300?

To have a misfire in all four cylinders eliminates a single injector or single spark plug and or wire. So go back from there, cap/rotor(doubt it), fuel pump, partially clogged fuel filter, coil etc.

 

to be clear besides the 1399 and 1300 codes which are basically random misfire codes you are also getting the cylinder specific misire codes for cylinders 1/3 and 2/4?

 

i am getting p0301, p0303,p0304,p0302. the thing that has many wondering is why is it only when you start the when its it hast been driven. sometimes the ecu accelerates to bring rpms higher when idle is very low. after driving several miles though, this problem goes away, but slight miss could be felt, very very mild

 

did you adjust the valves properly on a completely COLD engine??

 

I do not remember but I did adjust valves some time back before crank bolt came loose. It was running fine before it happened. should i adjust valves now. I remember using a guide when i did the valves, (repair manual) so i shoulve warmed engine first but honestly I do not remember.

 

after adjusting valves a buddy of mine told me i shouldnt have because these are fined tuned because of the vtec

 

did not check them after valves were fixed

 

You are suppose to adjust them on a cold engine.(after sitting overnight is best)
You should absolutely adjust them after you just had a valve job done, that should be the first thing you should check, entirely possible that it's your problem.

 

your buddy is a retard, I suggest you not let him near anything with four wheels.

 

will do. Thank you for you time and I will post results. If that does not do I will be back.

 

back from the ancient but adjusting the valves fixed the misfire problems and now it does not shut down on warmup. car feels like a champ and its running 210,000 miles. thank you b18ckoupe. i met with different mechanics and no one told me it would just need a valve adjustment. my next problem is smog. car will not pass smog and has high hc and high co. i think i might have killed the cat since the car was driven with this problem for about a year.

 

I bet the valve lash was too tight causing the valves to stay open; otherwise, if it's too loose, it'll just be hella noisy and maybe the valves won't open enough to let air in and out.

 

yea they were super tight. i did the adjustment before bending valves, then got cylinder head done but never bothered to check valve lash again. it started doing this when piston struck valve, which made me think it was something else. the valves were ruined by not using correct torque on the harmonic balancer bolt. 500 dollars could have been saved if i would have known there was a 25 dollar tool to hold the crank pulley. bolt came loose along with the little woodruff key with kept the cam from moving but allowed the crank to to move and allowed pistons to strike valves every rotation.

 

glad you got it figured out

 

Have you ever cleaned the egr ports? I bet that costs less than a new cat. Also do you have the numbers from the test.