ok,im doing the driveline on my 800 whp gsr build and im trying to get some info on what tranny setup to get!!


i know a dogbox is what most of you big whp guys are running, but ive seen a few say they run stock trannys (you guys please give some info)



i just picked up a type r tranny with 4.7 final drive what should i do to it so it will last a little longer?

 

ive seen a stock tranny with liberty face plated gears, and a cuff with 750hp

then some say that the mfactory pro series gears work as well they just replace your stock gears with harder factory style gears.

99%of the people on here wont entertain you man they will all say the breaking point of a stock tranny is 650ish

 

thanks man ,yea some people are greedy with the info lol

 

The First thing you should do is sell that Tranmission you just bought becauseit is useless for what you are trying to do. If it is a stock jdm type r with the 4.785 Final Drive, If you are revvin to 10000pm on 24.5" tires you will only be able to trap 147mph with that tranmission which is probably not going to be enough for what you are trying to do.
I say get gsr transmission with a good condition oem gear set, mfactory 4.05 final drive and a liberty cuff with new synchros and maybe a speedfactory modified shift change holder assembly (SCHA) and call it a day.

 

sell that type R trans and buy GSR and Mfactory first gear (3.07) and rev it to the moon if you want to trap more than 153 mph.

i am making 868whp in the dyno and arond 900+ on the track and i am still on stock gears.

my trans is ( GSR gears set, 3.07 first and LS 4.266 final tratio) best time so far 9.34@163mph, fastest speed is 164mph.

good luck

 

Weld the bellhauseing.. There is a few pictures here on ht but people seems to keep them to them self.. The retio of the final drive affects the forces that pushes the bellhousing apart.. I have a hangover and my head hurts so I will do you guys a favour not to think to much.. But I think it was the higher ratio the more force to the casing.

Also a stright cut final drive would also increase those forces.. An angel cut gear would devid the force in 2 ways as the streight will only try to push the case apart with all the forces. An angel cut gear will also push the gears with an axeal force.

 

catch up with the dynamic performance guys, they seem to be having great luck with the stock trannies. goin 160 plus. i got mine treated, and have been using NEW from the dealer gsr 4th gears. and thats the only gear i am breaking. only that, a quaife, and a cuff. i am about to make a post about that (b16 vs gsr 4th gear) later, for rev/mph questions.

 

im building a case too
ile watch this thread

 

stock jdm b16 tranny Y21 with only C.W's spool 714whp and wheel spinning on dyno.

watch my sign

 

thanks everybodyyyyyyyyy!

 

get a cuff and billet bell housing and mfactory 1st & 2nd gear, ls 3rd and 4th. keep the 4.78 final. should work pretty good for what your trying to do.

 

carbon coated gears

 

Ive heard RACERSTEVE does good work for treating the factory gears..

 

the guys at dynamic performance have gotten some great times out of stock tranmissions. give them a ring and see what they say!

 

this is very interesting thread. though i would not mess with a stock trans anymore only because i went down that path & after breaking gears about 12 times & every time something breaks its about 350-500$( if it didnt explode) , it added up over the 2 years. now im going for even more power so stock will not be an option.
but i will say the billet case should be a must if u want longevity.

 

a flow control valve will def. make a stock gear last longer!

 

I would think a billet case would make them break sooner with there being no flex. With the cuff only the bottom of the stacks can push apart, and that little bit of flex may actually help. I'm just thinking out loud here. Sell the tranny, try to find a used gear set and toss it in a case. On 24.5's you should be fine with a welded bellhousing. Getting it done on a stock tranny is impressive, but paying a few hundred dollars every 3-12 passes gets old, expensive and takes up a lot of time. Finding good used gears isn't easy, the used ones seem to last longer than new ones.

 

Get a hold of Speedfactory and talk to them about their Shift Change Holder Assembly.

 

Phantom Grip Transmission Cradle. Over 2500 sold world wide since 2002...

 

The speedfactory change holder is a sweet item but it isn't gonna help his gears hold up any better, you'll definitely need a cuff though.

 

damn good info

 

why would you think the gears would break sooner?. The bell housing distortion under load is the reason the gears are breaking and the support at the base where the main shaft sits is thin. The cuff in the process add more stress down low on the shafts which further pushed them away from each other. I believe that if someone used a designed a lower cuff like the ppg cuff and used an upper cuff plus billet bell housing people wouldn't spend *** much on aftermarket gear sets. So hopefully someone tries the billet bell housing out with the 2 cuffs and stock gears and see how long they last.

 

From what I have seen with stock gears its always heat that kills the gear. I would think that the flex in the bell housing could help cushion a gear shift but I know them pulling apart will also sheer the teeth. Are stock gears even strong enough to push the bell housing apart? I would imagine a gear would go before then, and im sure someone running bearings with 200k miles wont help either. I think with a setup like you are talking about you go to grab a gear and there just isnt going to be anything there from sheer shock or heat and no where for it to go. I believe Miller has said that there is no need for the lower brace when using the billet bell housing. I have no real world experience with changing things around and seeing what does what, like I said before im just thinking out loud. But for the amount of power some of these guys are putting down in the 1/8 mile on 24.5's it should be more than enough to destroy stock gears. My best guess to save a stock tranny is a flow valve, the small orifice may soften your clutch engagement a little too much but it would probably save the trans. But transmissions are cheaper than clutches. lol

 

i run the phantom grip cuff with stock gears and with a kazz lsd.buddy of mines made 820 whp,holds fine.7 passes at the track,open up the tranny,no problem at all.lovethe cuff.saved me alot of money.

 

Is he putting all 820whp down to the ground?. what are his times in the 60 and 330?.