noise at startup
I've a terrible metal on metal rubbing noise at startup. I can't pin it down where it's coming from because it's loud and resonates all around the motor.
The strange part is that it goes away after about 30 seconds. Any clues?
Chuck
The strange part is that it goes away after about 30 seconds. Any clues?
Chuck
oil pump sound like its going out. i bet you have alot of miles, or major oil leaks, or there has been oil change neglect often at some point in the cars life. i hear them start to go about 240,000-280,000 miles. time for a rebuild since its way involved. seriously not much more labor is needed to rebuild the engine. its about 1300 to 1500 for the rebuilds and that includes parts for the rebuild but nothing as far as sensors, distributors, fuel injectors, etc., or any labor of removing, replacing, and timing the distributor, and running through the engine after the install. expect an additional 4-5 hundred bucks in parts you should replace, and that includes the new fuel injectors. or you can have a shop just replace the oil pump if you cant do it yourself. i use dealer oil pumps though so i'm not sure what a rebuilt or after market one will cost
oil pump sound like its going out. i bet you have alot of miles, or major oil leaks, or there has been oil change neglect often at some point in the cars life. i hear them start to go about 240,000-280,000 miles. time for a rebuild since its way involved. seriously not much more labor is needed to rebuild the engine. its about 1300 to 1500 for the rebuilds and that includes parts for the rebuild but nothing as far as sensors, distributors, fuel injectors, etc., or any labor of removing, replacing, and timing the distributor, and running through the engine after the install. expect an additional 4-5 hundred bucks in parts you should replace, and that includes the new fuel injectors. or you can have a shop just replace the oil pump if you cant do it yourself. i use dealer oil pumps though so i'm not sure what a rebuilt or after market one will cost
One owner car, had the oil changed regular. This issue popped up on her before Christmas. She changed, IAC valve, plugs, wires trying to fix it. It does have 200k on it.
Chuck
yeah dont think its a belt. a loud squeal yeah its a belt. but that metal on metal noise like a loud rattle of knock that is going really fast and dies down almost instantly and after it decides to is an oil pump. as the oil fills the pump it goes away. but replace the belts or remove them and see if thats the problem. i doubt it though. i had that problem before
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yeah dont think its a belt. a loud squeal yeah its a belt. but that metal on metal noise like a loud rattle of knock that is going really fast and dies down almost instantly and after it decides to is an oil pump. as the oil fills the pump it goes away. but replace the belts or remove them and see if thats the problem. i doubt it though. i had that problem before
I was going to do the timing belt and water pump soon. Would the oil pump be pretty easy to get to once I have it all apart anyway?
I haven't even looked in the book yet to see where it's located.
Chuck
Not sure you can hear the difference on the video. When it starts there is high high pitched metal to metal grinding. It very gradually disappears by 30 seconds or so.
http://s367.photobucket.com/albums/o...urrent=004.flv
Chuck
http://s367.photobucket.com/albums/o...urrent=004.flv
Chuck
yeah its hard to hear. i can hear something though. dont sound like the oil pump though...wonder if the connecting rod bearings or main bearings are the issue though. i know mine were pretty bad when i did the rebuild. i went 10 over on everything with the rebuild. i'm just guessin on that though. reason i was thinking is because if the bearings have issues they might need to get oil flowin to them to quiet them down. does the sound return if you start the car, let it run for 2 minutes turn it off and start it again within 30 seconds?
Yep, it seems the warmer it is the sooner it fades away. I should have let it cool down really good before the video.
I have tried having someone start it while I hold a long screw driver to my ear on different spots. I still can't narrow it down, but I do have a little hearing loss.
It sounds like a dry bearing noise to me.
Chuck
I have tried having someone start it while I hold a long screw driver to my ear on different spots. I still can't narrow it down, but I do have a little hearing loss.
It sounds like a dry bearing noise to me.
Chuck
No, not at all. The only thing you can really hear in the video is when the noise subsides, you can start to hear the tappet noise coming in. Untill that point the high pitched rubbing noise drowns it out.
Chuck
Chuck
try an oil change and use a 10-30 oil. the lady may have used some lesser stuff and if that dont quiet the sound, try going 10-40. i do recommend full synthetic but it may be pricy for some. i also recommend a castrol brand. keep in mind that this is not a fix but only a band-aid till you can accurately pin point the noise. its hard to be sure but i would bet on the problem being in the lower end. bearings or oil pump. that tapping you hear in the valves is wat you hear when the valves are needing clearance adjustments. on this car though you will also get a CEL if the valve lash is too far out of adjustment and the car will not start. off hand i think its a 1099 or 1399 code. i forgot exactly but it ends in 99 i believe. that too though can be an oil or oil pump issue (the noise-not the code).
have you swapped the iac valve with a good one to test it? it might just need to be cleaned and clear the CEL. i've done that successfully for people before. sometimes though it dont work still so the iacv gets replaced


