First off, I've decided I DO NOT want a sub in my car. Its a 93 Del Sol and I am not going to fuss over making a box to fit inside my car. Putting one in the trunk is not worth it to me, so yeah.

I have Kicker KS600 components ear round (all 4 corners). Each one is capable of 65watts RMS and 195 Peak. The headunit puts out 50x4.

(1.) Now does that mean 10.25 watts to each of the 4 speakers making 50 watts? Or is that 50 watts each?

The sound is, well, to me, bad, I don't like it, and I think its not loud enough.

(2.) By adding a 200 watt 4 channel amp (50 watts to each speaker) would that make it louder without distortion?

Basically I want to crank up the basic speaker power, getting from what I keep reading, better quality, and louder/clearer sound. Would a 4 channel amp get me there?

Thanks in advance.

 

Find a 4x75W RMS, [the JL Audio 300/4v2 is what I would recommend]... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=437

Remove the tweeters and passive x-overs for the rear speakers, wire the rear speakers in series, [for 8 ohm load] and wire to the bridged rear channels of the 300/4v2 set Filter Mode to LP, set Freq. Range to x10 and Filter Freq. (Hz) to someplace between 200 and 500, [you will have to play with it].

Assuming speakers are properly installed the above should get you good SQ that should be more then loud enough, getting rid of rear tweeters will improve imaging and sound stage and pretty much eliminate "left/right bias".

JL Audio also has a very good solution for subs in a Del Sol... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?fit_id=1403

The JL Audio 500/1v2... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=439 will drive the two 8" very well. 94


BTW, your 4x50W HU is peak or max power, it will be something like 4x20W RMS, [20W to each speaker].

The reason, "The sound is, well, to me, bad, I don't like it, and I think its not loud enough" is because you are trying to drive 65W speakers with 20W, [not loud enough] and you are probably driving the HUs amp into constant clipping, [bad sound], easy to do when under-powered.

If the HUs constant power and ground are connected to the stock radio harness the HU is not getting enough current, [power] and probably making less the 4x20W RMS before the amp starts clipping.
Solve that problem by running a fused 12-10 gauge power lead directly from batt. to behind HU and connect HUs 12V constant, [yellow] lead to it, don't forget to cap off the now unused stock radio harnesses 12V constant, run a 12ga. ground from the chassis of the HU, [back support screw location] to cars chassis, [dash sub frame] leave HUs ground connected to stock radio harness ground.
The above is not needed if you add a 4ch amp, [HUs internal amp not used].

One last thing, speaker installation is critical to SQ, SPL level and speakers F3 point, [bass response] it is very important that the speakers are installed properly, even better if you replace the stock plastic speaker housings, [front] and stock metal brackets, [rear] with custom MDF housings/plates.
A speaker mounted to wood will sound better then that same speaker mounted to plastic or metal, it will lower the speakers F3 point, increase SPL and SQ. 94

 

Word. very informative.

The JL Stealth Box for my Sol is 800 bucks lol. I even tried contacting them about buying just the box and they tell me "the box is worth 600 so might as well buy the whole thing" so then I asked them "the subs are only worth 200 then?" and they never replied back....

I can't for some reason use the stock harness on the car, no power routes through to the unit that way. No clue why (bought car used), but it was wired up to the interior fuse box 12volt constant as well as grounded to the chassis right next to it. Don't know if that is good enough.....

So, IF I get a 4 channel amp, say 50 watts each, my gear will be louder as well as effectively better quality? So turn the amp up, and then leave the amp on low, and each notch on the head unit would be louder then normal creating crisper louder clearer audio?

As far as speakers, the Kicker KS600's are highly rated in the audio community? (from what I hear)

 

JL..the biggest ripoff in car audio lol

the stealth box is worth 600??...that box is 100 dollars to put together smh..fiberglassing is not that expensive either.

here's what i recommend

http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/inde...roducts_id=193

More power..better crossover..and less banking on your electrical

Those kicker speakers u have aren't the greatest but you already have them and amping them will make them sound alot better.

 

Yea right, find me a shop that will build that box for $100 and I will show you a shop the builds junk.

Your right, there is probably no more then $100 worth of material in the box, but unless you know how to fiberglass, [and for that cabinet, good at it] you would have to get someone else to do it and custom work is not cheap.

As for JL Audio being a rip off, how is that?
They make a pretty good product, it is dependable and sounds very good.

To the OP...
Yea, not cheap but better deals can be had at JL Audio dealers, we sold them, [at the last place I was at] for $600, [with the subs] and even one with damaged carpet for $500, You may have to do some driving around, but there is a retail dealer out there sitting on one they would love to get rid of.

There is nothing wrong with the Kicker speakers, but I would look for a 4x75W RMS amp,
"it is better to be overpowered then underpowered"

With that said, a 4x50W RMS amp will make a huge diff. over what you now have. 94

 

I reached a lil with the box comment..but 800 is alot dont cha think?

Jl makes good stuff but there's so much better out there for the price.

The only special thing about their amps are the nice crossovers and the regulated power supply.

Look at the sundown, though. More power, WAY better crossovers(you can run an active setup on it.) does it's rated @ 12v, not 14... and can take up to 16 volts.

Jl subs? nothing special...for the price of the w3, i can pick up something better from arc audio or image dynamics. w6? one of the best sq subs i've ever used. even still i'd pick up the si mag or something from the morel line over it. w7? AMAZING sub. is it worth the price tag? nope. ssa icon, xcon match it's performance for less. same with the idmax, fi q, fi bl, and plenty other drivers on the market.

 

Thanks again. Yeah I was looking at a Class D amp that does 50x4 for 139.99. Then my other option was a AB amp with 75x4. I can go either way really. Was thinking about doing the D cuz D is better (from what I've read)

I'm a price per performance buyer. What can I get for X money, what in that range is better, is that 10 dollars more worth it? Stuff like that.

Just for an example, not to start a pc debate, but the best intel core i7 6 core thing, is like 999.99, where as the new amd 6 core is only 300.00. The AMD is only 20% SLOWER then the Intel, but saving 700.00 is well worth that little 20%. That is how I shop, for everything, from cars to computers :D to furniture and so on.

 

If u need something more on the budget side, check out the mb quart dsc series amps.

 

I was thinking about getting the Sony XM-4S for 139.99 (usually goes for 199.99?) and its a class D. I've read a lot of good things about it....

 

Those are decent

you want more power though....atleast 80 per

 

look at mb quart dsc 4125 a lil bit more but you also get 125x4 watts which is more than enough for any setup

 

Very true. I just installed my 500/1v2 and 10w6v2 and it sounds very solid. Best sub I have ever owned. Worth every penny.

 

Yes, I agree that JL makes very solid products. The argument isn't the quality. It is the cost. There are several other companies that make products as good and/or better then JL Audio for a much lower cost. In addition, to someone who is not a complete audiophile, a simple upgrade of additional power is enough to make the system sound great to them.

In my opinion the AB amps sound a bit cleaner for mids and highs, compared to D.

What type of head unit (HU) do you have? If it is an aftermarket like Pioneer or Sony, ect... then a basic amp upgrade is all you need. The HU power is never really sufficient.

 

You dont want a class d for mids and highs. You want a class AB for that duty. Keep the class D for sub duty.

lol you can't compare an AMD 6 core to an Intel 6 core. That is like comparing apples to Oranges. I am a little biased though

As for JL they make nice subs, decent amps and ok components JMO. They have gotten a little pricey but that's because car audio in general has pretty much gone down the tubes. Not much competition left to drive prices down. Most really high end audio has left the market.

 

You are wrong to an extent. Commercial audio like fosgate, kicker, sony, ect... has gone down. Then you have companies like Rainbow, CDT, Bravox that are making great sounding mids n highs and companies like Fi Audio, SSA, Sundownz, Incriminator Audio, PSI and more, all making BEAST subs and amps.

 

Did you just post to argue or did you fail to read?
I said "most" not all. Maybe your just to young to know that in the 90's a LOT of good quality amps were on the market. Not just a handful. Prices have gone up since competition left the market place. JL is only considered a good amp now because the overall quality has gone down. JL would be a middle of the pack amp back in the day. JMO

 

There's still alot of good stuff out..you just need to do research.

as far as mainstream brands go

Jl makes good subs and amps
alpine has one nice sub(type r),one amazing sub(type x) and very nice headunit's
kicker has good amps and so-so subs.
kenwood had a nice amp last year(x4r) but discontinued it soon after...

IMO, internet direct brands trump mainstream stuff

 

I am sorry if it came across that way. I am not arguing with you. I just disagree with part of your statement. High end audio has not left the market, you just can't find as much of it on a commercial level, i.e. BestBuy, Brandsmart, most car audio shops, ect... Different points of view bruh, no biggie. I actually like it that way, since I usually have a better system them a majority of the people I come across.

As for the age thing, I used to run the PPI Art series amps and Image Dynamic Subs, kicker comps, solo barics, MMATS, old school JL, old school linear power amps, OZ, Brahma's, the original Punch 200's and 150's, Coustic Designs, and more...I am no pro, but I have been around car audio for about 17 years...

 

^^^ That's kinda what I was trying to say

 

Kicker is now made in China. If you think that's a quality amp take a part a kicker amp from 10 years ago when they were made here and compare!! Kenwood has never been what I would call a quality amp. Middle of the pack at best. I've torn apart just about all these amps and repaired them. The quality of today vs 15-20 years ago in terms of quality,fit and finish, parts used is leap and bounds poorer quality. Today's "quality" amps are mass produced in china or some other outsourced country.

If you think those are quality amps I have some beach front property in Arizona I'd like to sell you

Phoenix gold is essentially dead. Precision power went to craptastic DEI. Auotek is a shadow of its former self. Soundstream also produces mostly craptastic amplifiers now. Even some phoenix gold stuff was made in China towards the end.

You guys have just accepted to take less quality and call it good.

blah, as I said before MOST (most doesn't mean all) of the high end audio is gone from car audio. Just as you used to find a mom and pop car stereo shop in every neighborhood. Those to are for the most part dead.

 

Quick question fellaz.
My amp may have blown but im not so sure.
When i turn my system on my amp wont turn on.
But when i touch the 12v wire to the remote connector on the amp.
It turns on. What could be the problem? thanks

 

zapco, tru, audison, arc, helix, and stetsom disagree.

 

Your remote wire coming from the stereo probably has a blown fuse. Check the remote wire comming from the stereo to ensure you get 12v when the stereo is on.

 

I never said they weren't. What don't you understand about the english word "most"?
Do I need to provide the dictionary meaning lol!

Pronunciation: \ˈmōst\
Function: adjective
Etymology: Middle English, from Old English mǣst; akin to Old High German meist most, Old English māra more — more at more
Date: before 12th century
1 : greatest in quantity, extent, or degree <the most ability>
2 : the majority of <most people>

 

Get over yourself. No one is crying but you Mr. eStats aka internet awesome. If you would take your own advise and actually "read" what was being said then you would't have your panties in a twist. You know a lot about audio, yeah, but learn to have a friendly debate without crying. This is the internet so stop trying to prove your superiority by giving sarcastic responses, lol.

I was agreeing with this statement "There's still alot of good stuff out..you just need to do research."