shifting issues - clutch? master cylinder? slave cylinder? help...
My car has 113,000 miles and is on the stock clutch and just about stock everything... has dc5 suspension, hasport motormounts and short shifter.
My problem is that when I shift around 2000 to 3500 rpms, the shifter is pretty smooth - usually silky smooth - and the shift goes normal like it always has. But if I let it rev high above 4000 to 6000 rpms - I dont even have to be driving hard, but just the fact that the revs are high - the resulting shift ends up either not letting me move the shifter unless I double clutch my upshift and usually results in a grind but not always.
Ive been searching and this problem seems to be associated with aftermarket clutches breaking. I bled the clutch tonight and it made a world of difference at first, but its back to being crunchy and just making me wonder when the car wont ever let me go into gear again.
I have a clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder that I got from an advance auto parts store that we were going to install but haha.... there is little to no room to get the slave swapped out and I dont want to do one and not the other.
So should I bother with the master & slave cylinder or just replace the clutch? The car is getting new brakes soon and tires tomorrow. I am sick and tired of pouring money into this car thats falling apart. The door actuators (locks) have failed also, and I just put new suspension, motor mounts (they were old and busted) along with compliance bushings (again they were really bad off).
UGH.. Sorry for the mini rant but I am very frustrated right now....plus I just sold my motorcycle so there goes my secondary transportation.
My problem is that when I shift around 2000 to 3500 rpms, the shifter is pretty smooth - usually silky smooth - and the shift goes normal like it always has. But if I let it rev high above 4000 to 6000 rpms - I dont even have to be driving hard, but just the fact that the revs are high - the resulting shift ends up either not letting me move the shifter unless I double clutch my upshift and usually results in a grind but not always.
Ive been searching and this problem seems to be associated with aftermarket clutches breaking. I bled the clutch tonight and it made a world of difference at first, but its back to being crunchy and just making me wonder when the car wont ever let me go into gear again.
I have a clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder that I got from an advance auto parts store that we were going to install but haha.... there is little to no room to get the slave swapped out and I dont want to do one and not the other.
So should I bother with the master & slave cylinder or just replace the clutch? The car is getting new brakes soon and tires tomorrow. I am sick and tired of pouring money into this car thats falling apart. The door actuators (locks) have failed also, and I just put new suspension, motor mounts (they were old and busted) along with compliance bushings (again they were really bad off).
UGH.. Sorry for the mini rant but I am very frustrated right now....plus I just sold my motorcycle so there goes my secondary transportation.
had similar issues at around 80k miles and spent a lot of time searching & shop diagnostics, ended up getting 6sp tranny with very low miles (+/- 8k miles) w/ k20z3 swap. In the end, just for tranny(new clutch/flywheel), it cost me about $400 more than what shops quoted me for rebuilding tranny.
FYI, my tranny had bad throwout bearing/3rd&4th gear synchros/clutch/flywheel. It sucked *** driving with beat up 5sp!!! IMO, if you have somewhat of budget, look for 6sp off of k20a2.
z3 6sp comes with LSD, but you'd need few other parts(speed converter box/type-s 6sp tranny mechanism) to make it work, plus more pricy as well. GL bro!!!
FYI, my tranny had bad throwout bearing/3rd&4th gear synchros/clutch/flywheel. It sucked *** driving with beat up 5sp!!! IMO, if you have somewhat of budget, look for 6sp off of k20a2.
z3 6sp comes with LSD, but you'd need few other parts(speed converter box/type-s 6sp tranny mechanism) to make it work, plus more pricy as well. GL bro!!!
Well i think the actual transmission and gears are fine... I did research online (yeah that says a lot...) and found people with my problem had either a hydraulic issue or their clutch was bad and if it was the clutch it was usually an aftermarket clutch that either cracked or had a spring pop off.
Im not really able to spend money on a new box or motor at this time.
Im not really able to spend money on a new box or motor at this time.
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mdixonjam
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Jun 14, 2005 07:56 AM




