So here's what I got. I pulled my D16Z6 out of my 92 Si and put a 98 Civic VTi motor in and now it wont start. Both ran before I did the swap. I'm using the OBD2 distributor, OBD1 injectors and OBD1 ECU with my stock Si harness. Here's where I'm at so far.

-Have spark
-Got fuel to the fuel rail
-Got 12V to the positive side of the injector
-Got ground to the ECU (A23 and A24)
-tried 3 different computers (P28, P30, and chipped P06)
-tried 2 different main relays
-tried 2 different distributors as well (OBD2 B16 and OBD1 D16)
-No blown fuses

It seems like the problem I'm having is the injectors not getting a ground being sent from the ECU. Any help would be very appreciated. Thanks.

 

you either need everything obd1 (dizzy, wiring harness and injectors) or all obd2, unless you have conversion harnesses for everything.

 

I tried using an OBD1 dizzy and still didn't work. Also am throwing a CEL. either code 6 or 16 (blinks six times)

 

Do you have spark?

 

Hi RonJ, I've read a lot of your post on other people's problems like this. I do have spark. I even pulled the spark plugs out to see if they had fuel on them and they were dry.

 

With all ECU plugs connected and the key in ON(II), do you measure battery voltage between the ECU ground wire at A23 and each ECU wire at A1, A2, A3, and A5 coming from the injectors?

Are the fuel injectors possibly clogged?

 

I was borrowing a voltage meter, I'll buy one tomorrow and try it. What should they be reading? The injectors shouldn't be clogged since both the engines ran when I pulled them out (drove both cars in to pull the motors). I'm using my D16 OBD1 injectors, but I've tried using the B16 OBD2 injectors and had the same problem.

 

You should read about the same voltage as what you measure across the two battery terminals.

 

Not true OBD1/2 injector/distributor/wiring are interchangeable just have different style plugs unless swapping from OBD1 to OBD2 then you'll have add some plugs

 

So here's what I got. The grounds are good (A23 and A24) and the injector plugs (A1, A2, A3, and A5) measure the same volts as the battery with ignition OFF but nothing with it on.

How I tested is with a multimeter on DCV 50 with the positive hooked up to the positive on the battery and "poking" each plug with the negative side.

Anything else I need to try? I'm a little stumped as what to do.

 

Also just checked the check engine light. It's throwing code 15 Ignition Output signal. It blinks once for a second, then 5 half second blinks.

This is what I used to convert my distributor.

 

Just to clarify, did you make the voltage measurements at the rear of ECU connector A using A23 as ground? You want to make sure that voltage is reaching the ECU at A1-3 and A5 and that A23 is able to ground the voltage.

You also may want to inspect the A1-3 and A5 terminals between the ECU connector and the ECU.

 

Are you sure that you have spark?

-Check for battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire.
-Test the ICM.
-Check for an open or short in the Yel/Grn wire.

 

Just checked that. I used A23 as the ground and poked A1-3 and A5 and got voltage with the key ON II.

-I'm positive I have spark.
-I've got battery voltage at Blk/Yel wire on distributor side.
-Tested the Yel/Grn wire and got volts to that as well.

 

Check the Yel/Grn wire for an open or short.

 

How do you test for that?

 

figured out how to test for an open/short. There is no open or short in the Yel/Grn wire.

However, I hooked up the negative of the multimeter to A23 and positive of it to A1-3 and A5 with the key in the ON(II) and it didn't do anything this time. It is supposed to read the exact same thing as the battery correct?

 

 

just checked the code again. It's throwing code 16 fuel injectors, not 15. It was giving me a false reading because the battery was low. What would make it throw that code?

 

Charge the battery and recheck the voltages I mentioned earlier. Lack of voltage at the A1-3 or A5 would throw code 16.

 

I'll check that tomorrow (8PM here in England) with the battery out of my other Civic. Thanks a ton for your help so far.

 

Just checked it again with a new battery hooked up. With A23 as the ground and the key in ON(II) position, I'm reading the same voltage across A1-3 and A5 as I read across the battery.

The check engine light blinks solidly once, and then 6 half second blinks. That is code 16 correct, or code 6?

Anything else to check?

 

Code 16. What is your battery voltage? After cranking the engine, is any fuel seen inside the cylinders? Does the engine fire up with starter fluid?

If you find the cause of code 16, then you have surely found the problem. Is code 16 thrown with all three ECUs that you have? Do all three ECUs work fine and throw no codes in other cars?

Is the resistance across the OBD1 injectors 10-13 Ohms?

Have you inspected these connectors:

 

reset the ecu, hooked up a new battery and poof, she fired right up. Thanks a ton for your help! I'm throwing two CEL codes though. Code 6 and 14. How do I fix these?

 

Also, it is missing a little bit (I assume because of the CEL codes).