I have a 93 accord 10th anniversary , with 150k miles. there's a couple of problems i would like to know.

I usually start my day turning the car in the morning, works fine but when cranking it takes about 6 secs to turn over.

try to leave work on break around 2pm, car wont start.
Then when i leave work at 6pm car starts? This happens to me on the daily basis. I would like to know why its misfiring, and also my car says my brake lamp don't work, but it actually does.

Please help me resolve this issue Ty.


also would like to know when im driving, why would hot air comes thru the vents?

 

=/

 

could be the main PGM_FI relay going bad. i think its also the fuel pump relay as well. when its hot like mid day it wont start easily. when its cool like in the morning and in the evening it starts fine. the long starting times like the 6 sec cranking could be a timing issue or a head gasket starting to go. do a block test to quickly rule out the head gasket. this also could just be the relay

 

as far as the brake lamps....do you have the correct non-led bulbs for the high-mount (inside by the rear speaker) and outside (by the bumpers along with turnsignal/backup/etc)

as far as not starting and misfiring....did any tune ups lately?...cap/wire/rotor/plugs/pcv valve/ airfilter etc......non starting could also be your ign control module heating up or starter switch failing....

hope that helps

 

yes i agree i had forgot about the ICM and the dist cap and rotor and wires and plugs on this LOL. jumped to far ahead i guess LOL

 

yes its stock bulbs for brake lights, and also i did change sparkplugs/wires, air filter, dist cap. i need to check up on ign control module and switch failing, there was a time when the switch use to fail.

 

ty so much i will try to fix this immediately. This seems like the problem i had for like almost a month. I just hate it when i go to a BullS**T mechanic, and trys to (MilK) me, "always going back and forth to the mechanic"

 

not to milk anyone but in my place a HG involves a complete valve job, new valve guides, a dealer head gasket, fel-pro or dealer valve cover gasket set, new head bolts, new plugs (NGK), and cap and rotor and wires if they havent been done in a while. also an oil change.and we recommend replacing the timing belt and water pump at this time as well for a little more (if it has not been done in a while) because the timing belt is already off. we also use dealer timing belts and dist caps and rotors. wires we really dont care. they all seem to work fine. so if he recomends these things its not uncommon but gets you a quality job assuming he can turn wrenches well and he knows what hes doing. oh yeah i forgot to mention replacing the timing belt tensioner when you replace a timing belt. we just use the autozone tensioners though. and replacing cam and crank seals isnt a bad idea either.

 

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

 

seems like a lot of work, i do like the car very much due to having a strong motor. But i just hate dumping money on to this vehicle. I know Honda service will charge me a leg, to purchase original parts from there. But will take it to consideration of fixing this issue.

 

WOW! A+++ i needed this info. tyvm

 

93 Accord wasn't starting, same problem as stated above. After reading this forum decided it might be the main relay.
Car stopped starting all together while away from the house so had it towed to my trusted mechanic.
Paid $100 for a diagnostic as was told the car wouldn't start because the following needed replacing: Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Distributor Cap, Distributor Cap Rotor, Ignition Coil and Igniter.
Total cost plus labor $800!! I said "no thank you" had the car towed home.
Pulled the main relay and re-soldered all the points.
Plugged it back in and within two attempts at starting, the car turned right over.
Thank you!! Thank you!!
You just saved me $800, plus that still wouldn't have solved the issue.
Still going to replace the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires since I was told they are worn.
I will keep you posted if should the problem come back, so far so good.

 

Okay, updated on the Ignition Relay (Fuel Pump Master Relay) fix.

Everything was fine until the first cold morning hit (under 30 degrees F). Once again the car would not start. It would turn over and over with out starting.

Had a friend (professional electronics tech) re-solder the relay using his expensive soldering irons and equipment. Still no luck.

Replaced the Ignition Coil.. No Luck.

Replaced the Igniter Module inside the distrubutor... BINGO.

Car turned right over.

So far so good.