Hey HT.
Ive always wanted to build my self an all motor b20v on a semmi budget with compresion closer to 13s on e85.
Heres the parts list that i will be changing and adding more parts along as the build gets going. I already have a b20b block that is about ready to be sent to the machine shop. I will be taking it to Sacramento Cylinder Heads for resurfacing and bore and hone for the 84.5mm CP pistons i have. I am debating right now if i shuld get the z10 block girdle and if its going to be worth the money. Is there a write up on what is required to properly install a z10 block girdle. This will be a DD so i tink a block girlde is necesary.

This build is over a couple of months not over 2 weeks so be patient with updates lol.

Heres the parts list so far.
Block:
b20b . bored out to 84.5mm
used cp 84.5mm 12.5:1CR pistons
ls/b20 eagle rods
ARP head studs
ls/b20 micropolished/balanced krank
oem main bearings and acl rod bearings
golden eagle 84.5mm headgasket with the vtec converssion kit

tranny:
Gsr tranny with oem lsd

Head:
jdm b16 head...PNP-already have
oem valve steam seals
supertech flat face valves-already have
supertech dual valvesprings -already have
CrMOv retainers -already have
already have a ITR intake mani or get Skunk2 or a performer X-cant decide wich one
SPOON 70mm Trotle body-already have
skunk2 pro2's-need to buy some
big tube hytech replica egay header-need to order
NGK V-power R5671A-8 plugs for 12.0:1+ compression-will these work with e85..?

Fuel:
Walbro 255-need to order
id1000cc injectors.......

Management:
AEM EMS-hopefully a buddy of mine will sell his to me.
Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit w LC-1 & DB Analog Gauge-will get

Personal Goal: 235whp and what ever torque it will produce. Goin in a dc2 chassi.
Heres some pics since every one loves pics on HT

The pnp jdm b16 head..need to clean up the combustion chambers from the carbon buildup

ITR IM

70mm TB

Eagle rods mated to CP 84.5.. 12.5 CR slugs

B20b block....the oil you se is to prevent sleves from rusting.

More pics to come as the build gets going.
Any hints/advice is welcomed.
Please keep this on topic related discusions only.
Thanks

 

no block girdle, not necessary. regular acl's are fine for the whole engine. id1000's, but 750's will work fine, and the itr manifold will work for ur goal

 

The whole thing is i am woried about is the head was ported by alaniz so im afrait the stock itr mani will be a bootle neck.??? The 70mm TB is matched to the IM.
The crank i have had green color bearings for the rod bearings so i will be using standard acl bearings for rod bearings.
Thanks

 

Good luck on the build man just make sure u check, recheck, check one more time, and re check ur clearances on last time.....that will determine how well the motor will perform...

 

Thanks
Everything is going to be cheked. V2V v2P cams deegred Piston 2 head.....clayed.then given to a shop that deal with building import engines to be recheked again...i have till october to build it. Then pass smog on my daily and swap in the build and be free of smog for 2 years.
Any advice on what would be a better tranny to run on this setup. I have a perfectly good LS tranny and a gsr tranny that needs some work done to it. Shuld i just build the gsr tranny with oem itr lsd and a 5th ls gear. I dont want to be reving at 4 going 80mph on gsr 5th. Ls 5th is going to be great with all the torque the engine will have IMO.

 

To tell you the truth i literally just got done doing everything you did or are still in the process doing. one thing is i know your prob already done, but the b20z2 block performs much better. go with the gsr trans thats what i did and im satisfied. GL on the build. you will be happy in the end

 

Gsr trans is a nice happy medium imo, i didn't think it was too bad on the freeway. B16 was a mild pain in the ***, but not terrible.

^^what about the b20z block performs better...aside from the higher compression stock pistons?

 

OK I did more reserch on the Z10 block girdle.
I FOund the instructions on how to install it.
DOes this seem to be right. NO Machining required..?

For B16A, B17A, B18A, B18B, B20B, B20Z.
1. Remove Oil pan.
2. Remove Oil pump pickup.
3. Remove windage tray.
4. Loosen all main bolts on caps 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Remove main bolts only on main caps 2, 3, and 4.
5. Place Girdle on top of main caps 2, 3, and 4, keeping sure that the 2 notches are on the exhaust side,
and that the bosses for the oil pump pickup remain on the oil pump side.
6. Coat the threads of the GSR main bolts with oil, and hand tighten them into main caps 2,3, and 4.
7. Following the sequence shown, tighten the caps in 2 steps. On the first step, tighten all bolts to 22lb-ft.
On the second step, tighten caps 1 and 5 to 56 lb-ft, and caps 2, 3, and 4 to 50 lb-ft.
8. Place GSR windage tray on the block. Bolt in.
9. Place GSR oil pump pickup on the oil pump and girdle. Bolt in.
10. Place GSR oil pan on the block using a new oil pan gasket. Torque oil pan bolts to 10 lb-ft.
11. Start engine. Once engine has reached operating temperature, let idle for 15 minutes before use.
IF its this simple then ill invest in getting one for the piece of mind.

Never mind
Just read this page here on ht.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/installing-block-girdle-162919/

 

just make sure you align hone the block if you putting on the girdle

 

Nah
Its really not necesary if im not gonna rev past 9k rpm.
And it requires more machining to properly install it.

I got this from Full-Race Geoff.

"What you need to do to properly use the girdle, is to take the girdle to a machine shop and have them machine dowels into both the girdle AND the main caps. The dowels to use are the ones from the ITR or GSR. They are special order items, and if you look at the parts picture on a gsr layout at your dealer (TypeRparts.com isa great place, mike K is a good guy) you can see the dowels on the main caps. The machine shop will drill into the main cap and into the girlde and insert the dowels in. The girdle will move around if it is not doweled. This can cause a spun bearing or uneven bearing wear, as steve accurately said.

Next you need to have the main caps torqued down with the girdle in place. Torque the main bolts to GSR spec, not LS. now have the machine shop align hone it. The girdle places uneven forces on the main caps and it needs to be align honed or you could possibly spin a bearing.

do this stuff and it will work right. If you dont want to do it all, id rather not even run a girdle".

 

I run a B16 Tranny on mine best gearing for the track specially if ur gonna run some 23in slicks i was really happy with the result i've driven B20V's with GSR tranny gears seem tad bit tall..

 

Ima stick to my gsr tranny with lsd and ls 5th gear.

Hey guys. I have a quick question. I cant decide what pistons rings to run...? Should i run CP piston rings since i have cp pistons or what would you guys suggest. Something that wont set me back 100$ lol. Something thats good quality at a fairly priced range.
Thanks

 

I would guess upgrading from the itr manifold would be beneficial for sure. that im was designed for a 175whp 1.8L motor, you could get it ported but I bet 5-10whp+ from a higher flowing im.

 

Stick with the rings from the piston manufacturer. I run RS Machine piston with their rings. Stay away from chromoly rings though they suck sometime they take forever to seat right or they seat but u get excess blowby. Ditch the ITR manifold with the Skunk2 Pro2 cam and ur compression and if u get the girdle u might as well get a manifold that will make power all the way to where ur gonna be reving to. I suggest going with the Edelbrock Victor X manifold matched with ur 70mm TB u should make power till 9k

 

dude take some pics of your gsr now to keep the thread flowing with pictures.

 

Read what i wrote up top. Slow build. Not over 2 weeks butt over a couple of months.

K
Daam thats going to set me back atleast 100$ if i get the CP piston rings. But reliable wont be cheap. Why shuld i ditch the s2pro2s. Theres a guy with 13.5Cr 85mm making 255 whp on them pro 2s so i se why not. The ITR mani will go eventually. It just came with the head when i bough it. I will not be reeving it past 9k. It will be tunned to 9k and shifted at 8200-8500k rpms. I want this to last me a lil while on a good tune.

 

oh dude i'm not saying to ditch the Pro2's those are good cams and they make power till 9k...but trust me the gain from switching to the victor x manifold is a night and day difference well worth it. Time is patience might set u back but the rewards are gonna be well worth the wait. You should be dynoing around 225-235 with a really good tune...

 

KKK i must of read youre post wrong.
I will look into getting a victor X.
Numbers dont really matter to me as long as the tune is great. Im looking for 13s on street tires. And i dont know if the weight of my dc2 will permit. Chirping 12s on slicks. It would be nice tough to have a DD 12 sec allmotor, full interior car....dream on.

 

bump
any updates?

 

Saving up more money to get a alarm from "wrx-killer-Sti-eater" installed in the next feew weeks then all the focus will shift on the b20v. Gota somehow protect my money pit.
Dont worry neighboor.....ure more anxious to drive it once its broken in then me LOL.

 

I am more anxious for you to come to our church on it then anything else cuz the bm'er boys bashing honda's too much.

 

are you using 208-4306 ARP head studs part number? I believe i bought the wrong ones for my b20 block/b16 head i have the 4302 do you know if they will work. thanks guys i know this might be the only way i can get help.

nice build to follow so far

 

kool beans


Thanks

Updates will be soon after i drop of the block at the machine shop to get it bored out to 84.5mm.

 

"thanks" does not answer this guys question

 

To be honest
I am myself confused with what arp head studs to run. I believe for a b16 head and b20 block you need the b18c5/itr head studs but dont quote me on this. Ask someone that knows theyre stuff.