Originally Posted by Hondenver

motor wise... it depends what you want... and how deep your pockets are...
yeah K series would be dope but I realize that not anyone has 8 to 10k to do a K swap....
Paint.... thats completely on your bro.....

Also you shouldn't leave the decisions of your build up to others to decide that is the cool thing about this community you can do all kinds of different things to your car and others will still like or respect it ( excluding body kits, wings and other gay **** like that) if you wanna paint your car yellow and have green wheels do it up.... it just a personal preference thing....

Originally Posted by portfl0w

not really, ideally you want the valves to open and shut tight as quickly as possible. VTEC heads have a camshaft lobe with a high lift and high duration when VTEC is engaged, that means the valves will open higher and stay open longer per crankshaft rotation. in a perfect world valves would open and shut in instantaneously, however this would be absolutely brutal on parts and is impossible to try and engineer. since we can't just slam em open and slam em shut, we have to ramp the valves up and smoothly induce lift. because of this ramping up of the valves there is lift induced a hair early to start the cam lobe lift of the valve, as the valve travels up the lobe it hits peak lift and then comes back down to close. the entire time that the valve is open, or not seated on the valve seat is known as valve duration. as the cycle goes the intake valves open and allow air to enter the chambers, at the same time the exhaust valves are just finishing their cycle and are closing. as the intake cycle occurs the valves begin to lift off the seat and since the pressure within the cylinders is less then atmospheric due to the piston traveling on its way down, this creates a vacuum within and with the valve now opening the cylinder fills up. at the bottom of the intake stroke the intake lobe is actually still open just a crack since it needs to ramp down, this can allow the air which was just sucked to exit the same intake holes it came in. the intake closes and the compression and ignition cycles take place. at the end of the ignition cycle as the piston is on its way down, the exhaust valves open just a hair and prepare to begin the exhaust stroke. now at the end of the exhaust stroke when the exh valves are closing, the intake valves are beginning to open up. this time period when both intake valves and exhaust valves are slightly open at the same time is known as valve overlap. valve overlap is that in between space where the exh valve is closing but not closed, and the intake is opening. now if a engine has a lot of overlap, the engine will perform rather poorly at lower RPM since the air flow is based more off of vacuum then air velocity, as you increase your rpm your air velocity goes up and it becomes easier to control since it is directional and has air pressure behind it helping out. so as your air velocity and rpm go up, you can theoretically induce more lift and duration which also usually means more valve overlap. imagine trying to suck water through a hose, initially its pretty hard but once the water starts coming gravity and the weight of the water behind it help out and it gets a lot easier, you also have to spit the water out so in the same way that you are now sucking more water in you will need to spit out more quickly and efficiently since a higher volume of water is coming down the hose (requires more lift duration and overlap). this same principle of pumping higher volumes and higher velocities of air is how VTEC works. when VTEC engages, a significantly higher lift/duration cam lobe with no hydraulic dampening is engaged which also translates to higher overlap. with a naturally aspirated engine of high compression high lift and duration can give you more power at higher RPM as the air is flowing through the engine more consistently and uniformly, hence VTEC engagement in high R's. and by the same token lower lift lower duration and lower overlap will make you run more efficiently at lower RPM when there is little air flow by trapping it all in. now this is all good and nice on a naturally aspirated engine because you are lowering the pressure within the cylinders relative to atmospheric pressure such that a siphoning action can begin. with a forced induction vehicle these valve cycles do not perform in the same way. since boost pressure is already higher than 14.7, this means you have a positive pressure entering the chambers. sucking in air to fill the volume of the cylinder is no longer as much of a concern since it is being fed, and now the name of the game changes to holding that boost pressure within the cylinders. this is done by the timing of the valves which is a function of the camshaft. this being said a VTEC cam will have a very high lift/duration/overlap when the VTEC lobes on the cam are engaged. what this means is the engines intake and exhaust valves will be open simultaneously for a longer duration of crankshaft revolution which theoretically gives the boost pressure more time to escape the chamber via the valve ports. in general forced induction camshafts (nos/SC/Turbo) have relatively medium lift and duration, but where the engineers spend their time tweaking is the exhaust to intake valve overlap period of the cycle. power comes from fuel so more power can be obtained by storing as much boost pressure as you can, rather then trying to streamline your air flow. so all in all, VTEC cams in theory are not optimum for a turbo setup, however reality and theory are two separate areas. people still run VTEC cams with turbos and make tons of power. so i think either way you choose to go your ok, whatever floats your boat