Life Expectancy of Aftermarket Valvetrain?
I posted this question in the drag section because I thought I would get better answers....
What is the typical life expectancy of aftermarket valvetrain (Ti Retainers, Stainless Valves, high press valve springs etc) before it should be removed and inspected?
What items would show the most fatigue? I kind of figured the Ti retainers would start to crack first....
I run 100lb seat pressure Ferrea Turbo Springs, I put 1500mi on the motor never taking the rpm's past 7k and no boost, and one dyno session and a few passes at the track and maybe 1k mi of cruising around town, should I be ok without buying new stuff? The valvetrain has only been taken over 10k twice and that was on the dyno....
I am building a new motor and I was going to purchase an Endyn aftermarket CNC'd casting and have my current Ferrea stuff transfered over, but before I do I am just trying to learn a little more about what wears the most...
What is the typical life expectancy of aftermarket valvetrain (Ti Retainers, Stainless Valves, high press valve springs etc) before it should be removed and inspected?
What items would show the most fatigue? I kind of figured the Ti retainers would start to crack first....
I run 100lb seat pressure Ferrea Turbo Springs, I put 1500mi on the motor never taking the rpm's past 7k and no boost, and one dyno session and a few passes at the track and maybe 1k mi of cruising around town, should I be ok without buying new stuff? The valvetrain has only been taken over 10k twice and that was on the dyno....
I am building a new motor and I was going to purchase an Endyn aftermarket CNC'd casting and have my current Ferrea stuff transfered over, but before I do I am just trying to learn a little more about what wears the most...
I have been thinking about it for a while now, the thought of dropping a valve or trashing a motor over something stupid seems to bother me the more I think about it. I plan on spinning the ***** off this motor if the powerband allows me to, I just want to be safe and make sure everything is in line so I dont have to worry.
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i heard 15k miles for titanium retainers to start wearing down...wait till u reach 5k and then take them out and check them..thats wat i plan to do with my ferrea valvetrain..every 5k miles check for wear and 1st sign of wear ill just change the retainers.. BTW does any one know if on the ferrea roller set up..is the wear accelarated since your in a vtec size lobe all the time??
Running a roller setup is hard on the hardware. This being that you are using only one lobe, but the harshness is mostly on the cam, not so much the spring/retainers.
Valve tips,look at the locks and make sure that the groves for the locks arent wearing... valve guide's, seats all have to be looked at. Basically do a valve adjustment and inspect every few races as preventive maint.... I have more people come to the dyno with supertech valve train or some other lower cost alternatives, and they have no clue how old it is or were it came from... then about 9k... the motor makes the nice....valve float harmoney.... they never believe me when I tell them your springs are shot....
If you only put 1500k on them just have the machine shop test the springs if your worried, you can inspect the rest your self....
lol why is it harder than a vtec set up? you only run on one lobe once your in vtec, and most drag cars pretty much just go down the track in vtec? Besides a roller reduces friction compared to a traditional vtec rocker arm...Springs can get killed quick with high lift cams, and cam wear rate increase with high spring pressure...
Valve tips,look at the locks and make sure that the groves for the locks arent wearing... valve guide's, seats all have to be looked at. Basically do a valve adjustment and inspect every few races as preventive maint.... I have more people come to the dyno with supertech valve train or some other lower cost alternatives, and they have no clue how old it is or were it came from... then about 9k... the motor makes the nice....valve float harmoney.... they never believe me when I tell them your springs are shot....
If you only put 1500k on them just have the machine shop test the springs if your worried, you can inspect the rest your self....
Valve tips,look at the locks and make sure that the groves for the locks arent wearing... valve guide's, seats all have to be looked at. Basically do a valve adjustment and inspect every few races as preventive maint.... I have more people come to the dyno with supertech valve train or some other lower cost alternatives, and they have no clue how old it is or were it came from... then about 9k... the motor makes the nice....valve float harmoney.... they never believe me when I tell them your springs are shot....
If you only put 1500k on them just have the machine shop test the springs if your worried, you can inspect the rest your self....
Thanks for the reply Jason
This is what I was looking for...
lol why is it harder than a vtec set up? you only run on one lobe once your in vtec, and most drag cars pretty much just go down the track in vtec? Besides a roller reduces friction compared to a traditional vtec rocker arm...Springs can get killed quick with high lift cams, and cam wear rate increase with high spring pressure...
Valve tips,look at the locks and make sure that the groves for the locks arent wearing... valve guide's, seats all have to be looked at. Basically do a valve adjustment and inspect every few races as preventive maint.... I have more people come to the dyno with supertech valve train or some other lower cost alternatives, and they have no clue how old it is or were it came from... then about 9k... the motor makes the nice....valve float harmoney.... they never believe me when I tell them your springs are shot....
If you only put 1500k on them just have the machine shop test the springs if your worried, you can inspect the rest your self....
Valve tips,look at the locks and make sure that the groves for the locks arent wearing... valve guide's, seats all have to be looked at. Basically do a valve adjustment and inspect every few races as preventive maint.... I have more people come to the dyno with supertech valve train or some other lower cost alternatives, and they have no clue how old it is or were it came from... then about 9k... the motor makes the nice....valve float harmoney.... they never believe me when I tell them your springs are shot....
If you only put 1500k on them just have the machine shop test the springs if your worried, you can inspect the rest your self....
You answered your own question. lol
I am well aware of how VTAK works. You need to keep in mind that the OEM setup has ***** springs compared to the Ferrea hi pressure springs. Big difference in wear right there, especially if he's on a stock rocker and stock style cam.
I suggest you think about what you say before you say it. You could have saved yourself a lot of time....
Can you show me where in this post you mentioned anything about stock oem vs ferrea springs ect? The only thing I see is the mention of roller rockers?
You answered your own question. lol
I am well aware of how VTAK works. You need to keep in mind that the OEM setup has ***** springs compared to the Ferrea hi pressure springs. Big difference in wear right there, especially if he's on a stock rocker and stock style cam.
I suggest you think about what you say before you say it. You could have saved yourself a lot of time....
I am well aware of how VTAK works. You need to keep in mind that the OEM setup has ***** springs compared to the Ferrea hi pressure springs. Big difference in wear right there, especially if he's on a stock rocker and stock style cam.
I suggest you think about what you say before you say it. You could have saved yourself a lot of time....
I understand the reduced friction between the cam and the rocker assembly. I'm speaking about additional stress put on the cam shaft from using just one point of contact vs. two like the Web setup uses. The OP is asking about fatigue, not friction, hense my response.
Tuna: I'm not sure what point you're trying to make. Care to clarify?
Tuna: I'm not sure what point you're trying to make. Care to clarify?
I guess then Honda made a added fatigue design flaw in the K series head since their large lobes ride on a single small roller, a single point of contact? I wonder what Honda must have been thinking switching from dual contact on large lobe to single?
only thing i'll say is....i'd NOT buy the endyn cnc aftermarket cast head..............i've had my hands on one, and....um...all i will say is it looked like trash. very sloppy casting, and the fact that it didn't get k-valves is ignorant. but, i won't go back to the me vs larry days lol
I was a little iffy about buying the Endyn head, but I talked to another member and he sent me pics of his and it looked great, it looked nothing like the pics on endyn's site. I am aware the raw casting is rough, when I talked to him he said they spend a lot of time hand finishing and cleaning it up just like the dart blocks require.
yeah...but the time/money spent to make THAT casting look good.....um, rather pick up a used head and send it to RLZ for a nice CNC, i mean, your goal is to be fast.....not spending all your time polishing a turd


