Rear Disc Conversion Alternative
I had another thread going here but for simplicity I started a new one.
I had these plates made that enables you to bolt calipers onto your drum trailing arms. This uses the original Civic hub bearing (the Integra is ~5mm wider and will not work without 5mm spacers between the adapter and caliper bracket [not ideal]).
EDITED for better write-up:
Once you get the wheel off you'll see this:

After you remove the brake drum you'll be looking at this mess:

Remove the center dust cap with a hammer and screwdriver:

With the cap removed, you'll be able to access the axle nut:

You can try to un-stake the nut, but that doesn't usually work out too well for me. I usually just use my breaker bar to loosen the nut:

Next, pull the hub straight off the axle. It may come off easily, or it may need a little persuasion. The inner race may stay on the axle, in which case you should either remove it or clean it before reinstalling the hub. I would advise wrapping the axle in plastic wrap to avoid getting it dirty or clean it really well afterward:

I start to remove the shoes & springs be removing the lower spring:

Then remove the two clips, one on either side. I use a pair of pliers, line up the jaws of the pliers with the flats on the "nails" (pins that go through the backing plate), push in to depress the spring clip, squeeze the "nail" and twist to align the flats of the "nail" with the slot in the spring clip:

Now spread the shoes at the top (there is no need to mess with the spring and adjuster) so that the shoes clear the wheel cylinder, then you can pull everything forward and let it hang from the parking brake cable. To remove the front shoe from the cable, pull the "spring" that surrounds the cable so that you can remove the end of the cable from the "hook" that it seats in the plate that is attached to the shoe (sorry for the wordiness and lack of photo):

Remove the four bolts that secure the backing plate:

Remove the brake line, then unseat and pull the backing plate forward:

Remove the backing plate from the brake cable by placing the box end of a 12mm wrench over the brake cable:

Once you remove the backing plate, you'll hopefully be looking at this:

Now use a stiff wire brush to clean all the rust and dirt and debris from the face that the backing plate mounted to.
Place the adapter bracket onto the spindle and secure it with new, longer bolts:

Reinstall the hub bearing (you're supposed to use a new nut, FYI):

Place the brake rotor onto the hub bearing:

Install the brake caliper bracket:

Install the brake pads:

Install the brake caliper:

I do not have any information regarding the disc parking brake cables. I sold my car and did not get to that part of the swap. The Integra brake hoses bolt right onto the drum trailing arms perfectly. That is a simple removal of the drum hoses and replacement with disc hoses.
/EDIT
I had these plates made that enables you to bolt calipers onto your drum trailing arms. This uses the original Civic hub bearing (the Integra is ~5mm wider and will not work without 5mm spacers between the adapter and caliper bracket [not ideal]).
EDITED for better write-up:
Once you get the wheel off you'll see this:

After you remove the brake drum you'll be looking at this mess:

Remove the center dust cap with a hammer and screwdriver:

With the cap removed, you'll be able to access the axle nut:

You can try to un-stake the nut, but that doesn't usually work out too well for me. I usually just use my breaker bar to loosen the nut:

Next, pull the hub straight off the axle. It may come off easily, or it may need a little persuasion. The inner race may stay on the axle, in which case you should either remove it or clean it before reinstalling the hub. I would advise wrapping the axle in plastic wrap to avoid getting it dirty or clean it really well afterward:

I start to remove the shoes & springs be removing the lower spring:

Then remove the two clips, one on either side. I use a pair of pliers, line up the jaws of the pliers with the flats on the "nails" (pins that go through the backing plate), push in to depress the spring clip, squeeze the "nail" and twist to align the flats of the "nail" with the slot in the spring clip:

Now spread the shoes at the top (there is no need to mess with the spring and adjuster) so that the shoes clear the wheel cylinder, then you can pull everything forward and let it hang from the parking brake cable. To remove the front shoe from the cable, pull the "spring" that surrounds the cable so that you can remove the end of the cable from the "hook" that it seats in the plate that is attached to the shoe (sorry for the wordiness and lack of photo):

Remove the four bolts that secure the backing plate:

Remove the brake line, then unseat and pull the backing plate forward:

Remove the backing plate from the brake cable by placing the box end of a 12mm wrench over the brake cable:

Once you remove the backing plate, you'll hopefully be looking at this:

Now use a stiff wire brush to clean all the rust and dirt and debris from the face that the backing plate mounted to.
Place the adapter bracket onto the spindle and secure it with new, longer bolts:

Reinstall the hub bearing (you're supposed to use a new nut, FYI):

Place the brake rotor onto the hub bearing:

Install the brake caliper bracket:

Install the brake pads:

Install the brake caliper:

I do not have any information regarding the disc parking brake cables. I sold my car and did not get to that part of the swap. The Integra brake hoses bolt right onto the drum trailing arms perfectly. That is a simple removal of the drum hoses and replacement with disc hoses.
/EDIT
Last edited by terror_storm; Jul 18, 2010 at 04:06 PM.
Do you happen to have a how to on making the plate? I need to do this to my rex and I dont want to change over the trailing arms. I have DA brakes for front and rear. Wow great stuff bro!! I hate my rear drums, and after 2 or 3 passes at the track my stock brakes start to get to hot and no work to well very scary!
Hows a parking brake work with that? is it like a drum on the inside of the rotor. I want to do something to my crx cause the rear brakes dont do crap. My ebrake only works on flat ground, even then you can push car by hand.
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definite props for creativity, but to me it just doesn't seem very practical. You are having to already buy calipers, pads, rotors, possibly new rear wheel bearings. and i'm guessing you did that on a mill and probably were able to do it for free from some scrap material which would work great for you but everyone else is gonna have to pay for it so that cost is added. and the work involved seems almost as much, if not more, as if you were to swap out rear trailing arms or rear hub assemblies.
again, I give props for creativity but would like to see a cost comparison to see if this would be worth the extra work involved. very nice work though.
again, I give props for creativity but would like to see a cost comparison to see if this would be worth the extra work involved. very nice work though.
definite props for creativity, but to me it just doesn't seem very practical. You are having to already buy calipers, pads, rotors, possibly new rear wheel bearings. and i'm guessing you did that on a mill and probably were able to do it for free from some scrap material which would work great for you but everyone else is gonna have to pay for it so that cost is added. and the work involved seems almost as much, if not more, as if you were to swap out rear trailing arms or rear hub assemblies.
2. There are 0 (zero) Integra's at any of the junkyards in my immediate area, and as time goes on it's only going to get worse. Even the one teg that was at the junkyard earlier this year had rusted to hell parts. The calipers were completely seized. So as these cars become more scarce, people will be interested in these types of parts. Maybe not so soon out west, but here in Indiana, this stuff is scarce now.
3. I had one pair of these made professionally and it didn't break the bank by any means. So if an order of these were placed in a decent volume, the price would go down significantly.
I've always just been told that any time your take out the hub and bearing, it is always smart to replace the wheel bearing. like i said before, possibly replace wheel bearings. i didn't see before where you said you had someone make it so sorry about that. my mistake.
and i'm not exactly in the west, more of the south, but none the less integra's are still a dime a dozen out here, so I can see where this would benefit you not having many to choose from.
and, i didn't think this would be breaking the bank, I was just wondering a break down on all the cost involved and then I would compare that to the extra work involved and base my decision off of that.
still, 2
for being creative, coming up with a very good alternative and doing something that could benefit many people.
and i'm not exactly in the west, more of the south, but none the less integra's are still a dime a dozen out here, so I can see where this would benefit you not having many to choose from.
and, i didn't think this would be breaking the bank, I was just wondering a break down on all the cost involved and then I would compare that to the extra work involved and base my decision off of that.
still, 2
for being creative, coming up with a very good alternative and doing something that could benefit many people.
Awesome. So ebrake with discs should be solid and lockable? Its hard to heat up my tires at the track when the car won't sit still. How thick was your material on these brackets? As for doing stuff yourself I'd rather take my own time to do something myself than to pay someone to do it for me. Maybe I'm just cheap, lol . I just put steering wheel controls on my crx yesterday. Took some time but it was well worth it.
This is true for front wheel bearings, but the rear are a different design the do not need replaced when you remove the hub. Once you remove the center nut (and caliper & rotor or drum, whichever the case may be) the hub slides right off by hand.
i LIKE it!
nice work.
vap, did you sticky this?
i think ppl need to know that the fabrication is not a DIY project unless you already understand the process of making measurement, creating a drawing and getting parts machined. but im surprised the conversion process is so SIMPLE. its just one bracket... you could make a bunch of these parts for cheap. i dont know why password or whoever else sells cheap machined parts doesnt already offer this (read that AEM did, guess they didnt sell well? hard to believe... rear brake conversions are so popular.)
you really ought to consider making a small batch of these and sell them for your own profit. i'd be interested. the potential market is more than just EF's, but consider all the later EG's and Ek's that would want something like this...
nice work.
vap, did you sticky this?
i think ppl need to know that the fabrication is not a DIY project unless you already understand the process of making measurement, creating a drawing and getting parts machined. but im surprised the conversion process is so SIMPLE. its just one bracket... you could make a bunch of these parts for cheap. i dont know why password or whoever else sells cheap machined parts doesnt already offer this (read that AEM did, guess they didnt sell well? hard to believe... rear brake conversions are so popular.)
you really ought to consider making a small batch of these and sell them for your own profit. i'd be interested. the potential market is more than just EF's, but consider all the later EG's and Ek's that would want something like this...
i like it, and its a great idea. but wich is it, is there no tegs in your area or is there. first u said that there readily available and you got the hub and brakes from a 2 door teg in your local yard, then you say theres never any around..lol just seems odd if you got these parts from a teg why not just get the rest instead of fabbing up these adapters?
There was ONE for a while, and it's gone now. The trailing arm bushings were shot to ****, and the calipers were junk. The only thing I got from that car (that was anywhere near worth using, besides research) was the brake hoses, everything else was trash.



