so im gonna be building a ls vtec. bought the ls block from my boy for 20 bucks. it had a spun bearing his lost i guess. so i am going to bring the crank and rods and bearings to a machine shop, to all have machined to what they need to be, and the bearings and everything matched. just my question is should i buy and bring them stock bearings, or bigger? or smaller? or just ask them?? i am also gonna have them clean up the pistons and everything cause there coming out of my b16 block. yes i will have all new bearings rings and seals and etc.

my set up is gonna be stock ls rods, with p30 pistons, on b18 crank in b18 block. with b16 head, with stock cams and everything else. along with my b16(obd1) oil and water pump.

i will be also running an oil pressure and oil temp gauge.

i was reading/told by someone i need to do something with the fuel if running stock unchiped ecu on stock injectors and fuel rail? anyone know what i should do. I DO NOT HAVE 500 FOR JUST THE S300 PLUS COST OF TUNE. that will be down the road. my ecu is the P30 its numbers/code is 37820-P30-000-470-107563 ASH pretty sure its just the JDM P30 correct me if im wrong.

alll criticism is accepted. and why im doing this with both a ls and b16 motor sitting around is not needed to know its something stupid dont ask.

 

stock injectors and rail will be fine unless u plan on making more hp. if so, u can get some 450cc's on of a dsm for like 50 bucks around town, wire up a resistor box, and have it tuned. i wouldn't run bigger injectors if you're not going to tune it. as far as the crank, if it spun a bearing chances are the crank is scarred and you'll have to run oversized bearings. let the machine shop tell you which bearing you will need. They'll have to mic it to find out the diameter of the crank journal. i personally would find a good crank and use that instead. i'm not a big fan of oversize bearings on a motor that's going to be beaten on.

 

im on a uber budget pretty much. and like i said i got the whole ls motor for 20 bucks. i was just going have the crank rods and everything done to spec. unless i find a good crank on ctvtec for cheap. but whats the cons of running the over sized bearings?

 

well one con would be that the crank journal itself is going to be smaller, that's why u use a bigger bearing to compensate for the missing metal. ask the machine shop to be hoenst. maybe the spun bearing isn't too bad and won't need an oversize bearing, just a good micropolish. pics would help but ultimately the machinist will know what's best since he'll be able to measure everything.

 

with that last photo that is the one that the spun bearing was attached to. it is not gouged or like reallly realllly chewed up it is a little but still smooth to the touch. like even though there is damage to it, you can barely see it when looking at it in person, and with camera the light just destroys like any chance of showing it.

 

if ur in a budget..take 1000 grit sand paper cut it to fi around journal then use a shoe string to polish it..by wrapping it around the journal with the sandpaper covering it...then pull back and forth till its polish...then do the same with 2000 grit...or wat ever it takes to sand it smooth as the others...

 

 

Do not follow this BS! I will not even call it advice cause advice is something that's meant to lead you in the right direction.

If you can feel any damage on the crank journal, then it is toast. I will not use a Honda crankshaft that requires grinding. Even polishing a crank has to been done is certain way, if not, it will create microscopic burs that can cause major problems.

 

dont call it bull **** cause old school engine builders used to do it..he has to used his judgement and know if the crank its useable or not..this is the easy/cheap way to remove minor scratches from your crank...and it cost next to nothing..or u can pay 300 bucks to a machine shop to do the samething..he paid 20 bucks for a block and u think his gonna want to spend 300 to fix the crank?? there a reason why bearings come over/undersized so u can reused cranks that have been grounded or welded..do some research and dont be ignorant..

 

Lol,

This thread is epic. Some of the advise being given out borders on absurd.

OP, a crank with a spun rod bearing is worthless. Your best bet is to get another crank and rods that have not experienced a spun bearing. Hand polishing a crank will pretty much assure that you will have a spun bearing. 2nd trying to reuse old pistons is a near guarantee your motor will burn oil.

Pretty much what you have planned and some of the advice you have been given will result in a terrible engine. Save up and do it right, once.

 

X2 Couldn't have said it better.

 

well i can get the block machined and everything i need done at a machine shop for 250ish. and i was also gonna ask if they can polish up and tell me how bad my pistons are. obviously i will get all new rings and etc. and trust me i do not plan on doing anything to the block/crank/head myself. i dont try lol

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...item563ba6fc7f
seem like a good deal?

 

http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-s...mbly-b18a.html

worth the money yes or no? good or bad? would like car running soon. but if that is well worth the money ill need to save up and get that.

 

if your on a budget,i would get the ebay stock crank and replace the rod that was spun,then have your rods resized. you should be fine as long as the cylinder walls are in spec,if not then you need a overbore

 

cylinder walls look and feel fine. just gonna get them rehonned.

 

Oh really, so you would do the same to your modern day Honda motor? Tell me something, how uniform and consistent do you think you can get the journals with a shoe string and sandpaper?

Ask yourself this, what is the importance of a crankshaft polishing belt spining in one direction?
Do you even know what the recommended surface roughness finish should be?
Get out of here with that "old school engine builders used to" BS.
They were dealing with different clearances, materials, machining capability, etc. than these honda motors and machining equipment we are dealing with now.

 

Do it right the first time. Buy a simple engine rebuild kit, which should include pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets. Find a good used crank and connecting rod. The rod that spun the bearing will never be right no matter what you do to it.

 

fond a crank from somebody in neighboring town.

 

would 264.72 be a good or bad price for a set of stock pr3 pistons......... thats from the stealership. but i thought the pr3's are lower compression compared to the p30 pistons. which is what i want either a set of p30's or CTR pistons reallly. anyone got any input?

 

good bad? any input? sorry asking so many questions just doing as much research as i can and trying to get as much input as i can.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...Q5fAccessories

 

I got my RS Machine PR3 pistons for about $180 shipped, off ebay. I don't remember the sellers name, though.

I think Nippon, YCP, and RS Machine are good replacements, for a good price.

 

thanks sounds good.

 

I don't see the little locating tangs on those bearing shells, so it seems as if you really did spin the bearing. This begs the question: How is the big end of your connecting rod from that cylinder? It may be fragged as well.

So, Westchester Crankshaft will swap your old crank for a reground one with oversized bearings for $250, but I would still want to replace the con rod if the big end is chewed up. And when you put it back together, use ARP rod bolts so you don't spin the bearing again. The con rod bolts are the weak link on this build. $40 for ARP bolts is cheap insurance. Over-rev it and you will still blow it up though.

Cheap and rebuild don't really go together especially when talking LS/B20vtec. Cheap and time-bomb do. Sorry to **** on the parade. If you want to do it cheap, go find a low to mid mileage wrecked CRV and buy the engine from a wrecker for $400. Recoup $150 when you sell the head and slap a vtec head on it. By the time "some kid" blows up the LS or B20 bottom end in their hybrid conversion, you've got yourself a completely flogged, clapped out pieced of **** with greatest value as a paperweight. It will need new pistons, oil pump, bearings and knowledgeable machine work to get you a bullet-proof bottom end. And you need to clean every passage and crevice in the block to get every last shaving of copper and bearing metal. Tank clean, laundry detergent, solvents, compressed air, rifle cleaning brushes. Replace the oil pump pickup tube while you are at it or go MENTAL trying to clean out the screen as well.

Hey, the top end ate all the metal bits of that bearing too so you need to disassemble the ENTIRE head as well. I'm just finishing one up, but I did it to show a guy in Auto Technician school how to completely rebuild an engine. Apparently, they don't teach that in auto tech school. I guess Auto Tech translates to: "Parts changing computer jockeys with the occasional brake-job thrown in.." If you want to do a cheap B20, grab one that hasn't had the snot beaten out of it out of a wrecked CRV, swap the head and con rod bolts and cross your fingers. Otherwise, open your wallet wide and say Ouch!

 

o no i know its not gonna be cheap cheap i just dont have a couple grand to fully rebuild and have a rebuilt motor with basicly zero miles.
i have everything i need. getting a crank that has no issues this weekend.
i plan on buying all new pistons and rings (p30) and bearings. getting block re honned, and cleaned out. along with new water and oil pumps.
already planned on ARP Rod bolts
new head studs
vtec conversion kit.
head is gonna be a complete stock head off a b16a besides doing a new head gasket, and machining the head.