y7 to y8 im swap high idle holding 2k
hi I swapped a 96 manual y8 intake manifold onto my 96 y7 and used y7 tb with y8 throttle rotor and spring new gaskets y7 tb gasket and jb welded all iacv openings closed on manifold <on back and tb mount>. I cant seem to find any vaccum leaks on any hoses I used a vaccum plug on rear cruise control nipple, when i start the car it holds around 2400 rpms doesent surge I have the throttle cable loose and idle screw all the way to lower idle I cant seem to figure it out i beleave I have all plugs in correct locations any help would be appreciated thanks.
1a) Try removing your intake pipe, and start your car.
2a)while the engine is running, starve the engine of air by placing your hand over the throttle body. This is a good way to check for vacuum leaks.
3a)If you get a good seal for 3-5 seconds or so, your in good shape, but if your can hear air leaking in, or worse yet, the engine is still running. You got a problem
At least that way you can be sure to rule out vacuum leaks.
another thing i'd try is to (again as the car is running) unplug the IAC valve from the back of the intake manifold, there should be a 2 wire plug going into it. See if the RPM's drop down considerably. (with the IACV unplugged, and idle screw closed) the car should idle reely low if not stall.
that way you can see if its your IACV acting up.
let us know!
2a)while the engine is running, starve the engine of air by placing your hand over the throttle body. This is a good way to check for vacuum leaks.
3a)If you get a good seal for 3-5 seconds or so, your in good shape, but if your can hear air leaking in, or worse yet, the engine is still running. You got a problem
At least that way you can be sure to rule out vacuum leaks.
another thing i'd try is to (again as the car is running) unplug the IAC valve from the back of the intake manifold, there should be a 2 wire plug going into it. See if the RPM's drop down considerably. (with the IACV unplugged, and idle screw closed) the car should idle reely low if not stall.
that way you can see if its your IACV acting up.
let us know!
I tried puttin hand over tb and it sealed really hard and Rpms dropped down to around 800 but couldent really hear any leaks if that's the case it should have leak somewhere?
800 is definetly high, stock idle is lower then that.
Just to be sure. Try having the car running & unplug the IAC.
That will close the IAC valve. The idle should go down a little. But I'm betting it will drop to only like 1700 ish.
Just do that to to rule out the IAC, but I'm pretty darn sure it's a vacume leak. Get some throttle body cleaner or break cleaner and spray around your hoses, connections, gaskets etc.
If there's a leak, it will suck up the cleaner and cause your RPM to spike.
Good look & good hunting.
Just to be sure. Try having the car running & unplug the IAC.
That will close the IAC valve. The idle should go down a little. But I'm betting it will drop to only like 1700 ish.
Just do that to to rule out the IAC, but I'm pretty darn sure it's a vacume leak. Get some throttle body cleaner or break cleaner and spray around your hoses, connections, gaskets etc.
If there's a leak, it will suck up the cleaner and cause your RPM to spike.
Good look & good hunting.
well i unplugged aicv and it started pulsing around 1700 i guess everything is tight and hoses are tight idk im getting stumped im assuming its a vaccum leak somewhere i guess next step is to get carb cleaner
well after messin with it alil bit more not even sure what i did that changed it but now its surging from 1-2k slowly and i sprayed carb cleaner over all gaskets and hose connections and nothing! I think its the tps or somthen when i swapped throttle rotor over i put the nut on pretty tight and think it might have made a click sound u think that could have messed up the tps?
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Hmm... you know thats a good point. I know that if you replace the throttle body with say an aftermarket one (say Skunk2) its very important to set up the TPS sensor correctly. You have to use an Ohm meter. Need to set it to what the old one was at.
That didn't accrue with me, but doing a Y7 to Y8 conversion, you DO have a different throttle body and such.
I dont know how to set the TPS my self, but i do know that S2 has a video of how to set the TPS on their oversized throttle bodies (because when you use their throttle body, you have to swap over your old sensors to it)
perhaps you could apply it to your problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukPoe5E4Fqg
let me also check in my Honda Service manual about setting the TPS if thats in there.
That didn't accrue with me, but doing a Y7 to Y8 conversion, you DO have a different throttle body and such.
I dont know how to set the TPS my self, but i do know that S2 has a video of how to set the TPS on their oversized throttle bodies (because when you use their throttle body, you have to swap over your old sensors to it)
perhaps you could apply it to your problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukPoe5E4Fqg
let me also check in my Honda Service manual about setting the TPS if thats in there.
i used the same throttle body y7 just changed throttle rotor and spring so yea now it just surges 1k-2k i think its the iacv i took it apart and cleaned it still same thing, bled the coolant system i just dont know why it would go bad taking throttle body off and putting on different manifold
hmmm i thought Y7 and Y8 TB's were totally different.
as far as IAC, if it were PURLY an IAC problem, unplugging it (and your evap solenoid) should drop your idle to a base line of about 450.
even lower if your idle screw is all the way in.
you can try swapping it, but i dont think it is the problem.
as far as IAC, if it were PURLY an IAC problem, unplugging it (and your evap solenoid) should drop your idle to a base line of about 450.
even lower if your idle screw is all the way in.
you can try swapping it, but i dont think it is the problem.
i unhooked and iac a evap and then started car and it just bounces at 1700 i guess im just gonna let it cool down then pull off manifold and look at im gasket...
thats very strange imo.
i dont see how the engine could possibly bounce.
With the IAC/EVAP unplugged, the ONLY thing controlling idle should be the screw which is static, the ECU has no control of idle anymore, no more air control.
Thats weird. Unless the Fuel Injection Air Control that the Y8 manifold has is acting up.
is the vacuum hose on the top part of the manifold close to the head capped?
i dont see how the engine could possibly bounce.
With the IAC/EVAP unplugged, the ONLY thing controlling idle should be the screw which is static, the ECU has no control of idle anymore, no more air control.
Thats weird. Unless the Fuel Injection Air Control that the Y8 manifold has is acting up.
is the vacuum hose on the top part of the manifold close to the head capped?


i dont think the Y7 mani has this. If that is the case, that hose should be capped off at the manifold. Perhaps thats causing the leak? The FIA control blows air right at the injectors, it would suck in air into the engine... perhaps...
sorry for the earlier delayed responses... i was on a bus coming back from Reno to Fullerton, lol. Internet was slim to nill, but I'm back now.
just checked out gasket on im and looks good i dont think i could take gasket off if i wanted to its stuck to the im side but i put eveything back on how it was and same thing surging 1-2k lol....


