Is anyone using these that is putting down 450+. Had someone tell me that they are prone to issues like spinning in the hub etc. I did a search but really did not come up with anything conclusive. Seems like the only negative thing I saw was from years ago. Or is ARP really just that damn good?

 

I've been running them on my car for years now... Only issue I have ever had was a friend of mine cross threading a lug nut on, which damaged the threads on the stud, so I had to replace that one... I used red lock tite when I installed them though to help them hold better in the hub.... Seems to be holding up great... The only reason I am replacing them is because my DSS 5.9's came with the new hubs and ARP's....

 

we twisted a few up back in our day (back in 2000-2003 era)

but i dont know if they have been redesigned or not.

but we only use ARP ones now though.

but Sk2 studs are still a hott seller. I do recommend spot welding them on the back side of the hubs though (ARP also)

Rob@TPR

 

Camaro studs have larger knurled ends, no need to spot weld.

 

Good to hear, I used loc tite as well. Mine has only been on the car for three weeks & haven't made a pass yet, so hopefully I will have the same success, Im making the OP's suggested power.

 

I wouldnt run them without spot welding the backs of them. We have also had problems with the skunk2 wanting to cross thread when trying to put on a lug nut. I cannot say that I have ever had that problem with the ARP's though.

 

x2

 

Interesting thanks for the info fellas I might just sell these and opt for the ARP's and have piece of mind.........Ahh more damn parts to buy........

 

ARP's are cheaper too (at least threw us)

 

Can you explain? How does a stud cause one to cross thread a nut?

 

The only thing that I can think of is that its the way that the threads are cut on the end of the stud, skunk2 may cut the threads a little farther than ARP. All I know is when you put the lug nut them and try to spin them on with your finger they want to cross thread. It didnt matter what style lug nut it was. I know it sounds stupid but a lot of people have experienced the same thing. The ARP's you just stick the nut to the thread and do work. They spin on flawlessly every time. I have not ever personally cross threaded a nut, but it sure as hell wants to if you dont align it just right.

 

Hmmm... I only had the cross threading issue with the one, and that was due to a damaged nut, and a not-so-smart friend... My buddy was helping me change the tires at the track, and admitted that he noticed it seemed to be threading a little tight, but just whacked it with the cordless impact anyway... I guess one over 5 years isnt bad though...

 

Threads on studs are not cut on, they are rolled on. Does anyone have a close up pic of the start of the thread?

 

I talked to folks at skunk within the last week and they told me that their studs have been discontinued for a while...

I ordered a set of arp's and installed them already. I can honestly say I have never had an issue, ever, with the ARP's..

 

There are many other options out there that are cheaper, and as good as ARP's. If people were willing to research a bit.

 

like what? i know its not Blox because their wheel studs are complete crap.

we took out the blox ones on a friends car, replaced with ARP's and its been awesome ever since.

we can thread the nuts on by hand now...

 

properly installed, blox skunk 2 and arp studs work fine i do installs on a weekly and sometimes daily basis and have not had one complain or "loose" stud. I install my studs using a press and a large socket

btw the skunk 2 and blox studs I have instock are identical .... probably Taiwan crap like the rest of their stuff...... just fancy packaging

 

Get ARP's, I never had any problems with them.

 

I'd gladly use ARP wheel studs if someone could justifiably tell my why they are worth 10X the price I pay for studs, when I have the same results, and have done for more than 10 yrs??

 

What is the tensile strength of the studs you are using, Clayton?

 

Not that it matters to most, but I am happy to spend a little more to buy a product that is made in the US, especially if it is a better product than the overseas competition.

 

Hey Joe

the studs I was using were 45psi green, and 90 Psi after heat treatment

And my studs are made in Canada, but you and I had this discussion years ago, and I don't feel like repeating that

Clayton

 

Clayton, what studs are you running???

 

ARP is claiming 200,000 psi tensile strength, are we using a different scale?

 

I'm too old to remember conversations from years ago, and we are all entitled to our opinions on overseas product knockoffs, yet I didn't exactly mean to imply that whatever you are using is from Taiwan/China.