thought i might share this with h-t
okay so i started out with ends from a old strut bar got some 1/2 inch tubing from the back yard ... its actually gas pipe tubing sch-40 from home depot lol


did all the mesurements welded the nut end to the bar and grinded welds down.... mig flux-core welds are ugly hahaha...

so thats the bar the ends i got some 1/8 flat bar and bend it 90 degrees and added a tab so it could hold it in place







polished her up and walah... a c-pillar bar







could of done cleaner with some nice welds but hey it holds up and works

 

looks like metal brackets will flex with the light load that it will get

 

not too sure about that the metal is pretty strong but i will update if anything

 

some people on this forum are complete idiots
looks good man

 

If you didn't want opinions, you shouldn't have posted it online. But truthfully it does look crappy.

 

i understand its not manufactured to loook 100000% beautiful with out any flaws its done to do the job if i had a bigger budget i would machine the ends and different material, gone with tig welding instead of mig etc.... opinions are open just don't offend me simple as that... if i wanted something for show i would have gone with the eM bar instead

 

I'm sorry but that looks pretty bad, i would rather have the ebay bar then that thing. Again don't post things online if you don't want critisism.

 

I think the bar looks good and if he wanted it to look even better he could do so. i think the ugliest part about it is the brackets, but sheesh for 5 bucks you can't complain. i'm big on function over form in something like this. although i don't think this will serve a lot of function, it will help a tiny bit.

 

You gotta start some where.

 

The bar is functional, but the end brackets are junk. There's more than a light load on the brackets when a body flexes. The leverage involved is enough to flex the entire body of the vehicle...that's not a light load. Did you just drill into the unibody structure of the pillar to mount it.

I give a B for effort and an F for function....sorry. At this point I'd see it as a ricer mod, because its really doing nothing more than sitting there for look. Redesign the end brackets and make sure the mounting method is solid.

 

Who the hell are these people and how did they get in our fabrication forum? Good fab man.


People should be allowed to post what they can do with minimal tools and knowledge without ******** getting on their back. This is a forum where people should be able to learn as well without feeling scared they will be treated like ****.

 

The mounts definitely need some work.
at least chrome them!!

i'd ditch the mounts altogether.
just thread in a Male Clevis into the threaded holes in the C pillar. i think the would be the strongest/simplest option. might not be able to find the right thread pitch. just weld on the correct bolt to the clevis head.



http://www.midwestcontrol.com/catdis...ort.php?pg=169

 

Not knocking your budget bar, just trying to add a little advice. If you kept the hole for the bolt closer to the bend it would create a shorter lever arm, so it wouldn't flex as much. Also if you added a gusset and/or used thicker material, it would add some rigidity.

Or better yet, if you could make a U-shaped bracket and have the hole to attach to the chassis at the bottom and the holes for the bar up on the legs of bracket. You may have to make the bracket wider to fit the chassis bolt and use washers between the bracket and the end of the bar to make it work. Anyway, that wouldn't be as prone to flexing.

 

I give an A for innovation given the lack of proper tools and its only version 1.
Im sure in the future he will find better ways to make this and solve all the problems everyone seems to have with it.
Keep in mind people that prototypes are not polished pieces of art.

At least he took the initiative to create something!

 

thanks to all the people who responded ... i am leaving to the military in 2 months so i dont see a point in buying expensive tools until i come back ... this was done with a grinder and a lincoln mig welder with out gas lol ... those end mounts are pretty cool design (hybridmoments) ... i wanted to fabricate then ends something like this but cheaper maybe when i return i will fab something a lot better and post it up .... p.s. i plan on painting this so it would look half decent so yea lol


if anyone can tell me where to get the end mounts like picture above please do ill be more than happy to buy em lol

 

I agree with this. OP if you're listening to the constructive guys on here, this might be of help. They say it needs to be more sturdy. I made this for my DC2.



Way stronger.
Press the bolt out of the washer, that normally goes into the C Pillar threads, and throw the bolt away(this is so you can use a loose bolt later, which won't cause the bar to be stuck). Weld the washer to a short piece of 1.5" tube on the end. Drill the hole slightly bigger and use a loose bolt to secure it in place. Do this to both sides so you have a two points to cope a bar in the center. Finally just weld in place in the car, paint it and you're done.

 

AFFIrace: that bar is pretty cool n solid what size is it u said 1.5 is that id or od? ... imma try to get a cylinder wit gas mix to weld cleaner ... i want something different .... time to think :D

 

It's 1.5" O.D. Chromoly. .083 thick I believe. When you weld it in the car it did pull inward. When I unbolted after cooling, there was a about an 1/8" gap over both sides(1/16" each side) so it kind of gives a natural tension you need.

 

ahh ic cool imma give it a try thanks

 

another question this might sound dumb but is their a special tool to thread the inside of tubes i know their ones u put on a drill a tap n do it that way but i mean to make it straight and stuff like that

 

Not bad for something home made.

 

thanks

 

hey man i feel u thats why i posted my stuff up i dont care if its not the perfect weld or the perfect build just showing some work that people can do them selfs

 

You can buy the inserts from places like Applied Racing in Florida. Get a left hand and a right hand and the matching clevises/rod ends and you have adjustability!