91 DA Rear brake pads still holding up since last change 1998
I didn't bother changing it cause I don't hear any squealing. Brakes work fine. I haven't changed out my rear brake pads since 1998. Is this a problem? The front pads do get changed when its time because I would hear the hardware indicator scratching the rotor.
Do the rears have indicators? I have never replaced the rears myself. It was done at a shop. The fronts I have.
Is it true from what I hear from some mechanics that most of the braking power will be forced on the front pads?
So is this normal? What is the normal interval life span of rear pads? Daily driver.
Do the rears have indicators? I have never replaced the rears myself. It was done at a shop. The fronts I have.
Is it true from what I hear from some mechanics that most of the braking power will be forced on the front pads?
So is this normal? What is the normal interval life span of rear pads? Daily driver.
It's about a 70/30ish split, and yeah the rear has an indicator as well. If you know how to remove the front pads then you'll be fine with the rear. (remove two bolts instead of one, like the front) Then you can check and replace when needed.
I guess I'm good then. I just went outside to check the thickness of the pads. They're as thick as the thickness of your roll-up window.
Did you actually pull them off, sometimes it's the metal backing that your looking at through the wheel, so just be sure. The indicator is offset from the actual metal by about 1/8 off an inch.
Naww. I can actually see the pads. I know what your talking about regarding the metal backing. Thanks
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I always remove both bolts from all calipers front and rear during a brake job, so I can clean up and re-grease the slide pins.
Going on 16 years on my original calipers, never had one seize up on me.
Also you have to turn the rear caliper pistons instead of compress w/ clamp to get the piston back into the bore. A large screwdriver, the tips of needle-nose pliers, or a brake caliper tool (cube-looking thingy) all do the job.
Also I never bother with resurfacing my rear rotors. I just replace them every time, since they're only about $15 each from most auto parts stores. IMHO it's not worth having to take my old rear rotors off and take them to a shop, usually have to leave them there then come back hours later. It's easier to just get new ones beforehand and slap 'em on there and be done with it.
For my front rotors, though, I actually keep 2 sets so that one set is always freshly machined and ready to go at the next brake job.
Going on 16 years on my original calipers, never had one seize up on me.
Also you have to turn the rear caliper pistons instead of compress w/ clamp to get the piston back into the bore. A large screwdriver, the tips of needle-nose pliers, or a brake caliper tool (cube-looking thingy) all do the job.
Also I never bother with resurfacing my rear rotors. I just replace them every time, since they're only about $15 each from most auto parts stores. IMHO it's not worth having to take my old rear rotors off and take them to a shop, usually have to leave them there then come back hours later. It's easier to just get new ones beforehand and slap 'em on there and be done with it.
For my front rotors, though, I actually keep 2 sets so that one set is always freshly machined and ready to go at the next brake job.
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