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try the cheap route.... change your vacuum hose it sounds weird but its the cheapest thing you can start with... i had to replace all the parts you just mentioned and turns out it was a vacuum leak

 

Forgot to mention runs fine in open loop. Just when it warms up it hesitates until around 4k.

 

I needed those parts anyway. Rotor brush was basically gone, cap was in fair condition, plugs were not looking too hot and when I pulled a plug wire the metal connector came out, so that was that. Which vacuum line was giving you trouble?

 

well i changed all my vacuum lines since i bought a vacuum hose kit from ebay for 30 bucks and to be honest i got it in a different color and i still have over 20 feet of hoses lol gotta get the bang for your buck...

 

Will try to check for leaks. Just inspected the lines and all looked well so far. Any other input?

 

if spark is good and ur sure no vacume lines ar torn split ripped or anything then start by checking ur injectors, fuel filtter and if there fine then move to the pump ...after that start replacing gaskets

 

Tried to replace the fuel filter yesterday. Couldn't get the top lower nut off. The smaller one came off just fine but no luck on getting the larger one beneath off. Will try again tomorrow. I did have to adjust my idle screw to bring the idle down from about 900 where it would bounce back and forth to 1200 to around 600-650 with no bouncing. I wonder if I had to adjust it because of a vacuum leak. Would seem to make sense. It was obvious the idle was in no way recently adjusted. There was a gray film over the screw.

 

ok if your idle is jumping around on you like that im gonna say vacume leak or idle air control valve ...although the iacv usaly makes ur idle jump a lot more than that

 

My accord is doing the exact same thing yours is doing, only difference is I am getting code:43(fuel supply system iirc) which seems rather vague. I'm gonna check the injectors then O2. I've read that a bad O2 will cause this as well.

 

my vacuum hose seemed alright but remember we have engines that are over 10 years old!!!!!!!! change the hoses its only a few dollars your breaking your head to much trying to see what the problem is... ive done the same trust me so i put 2 and 2 together and came up with 4... its a breathing problem.... check it out. when you sit in your car start your engine NOT giving it any gas try and listen to the engine does it make a weird low suck or blowing sound??? if so change your hoses.. ima laugh really hard if you change your whole fuel system and you still have that problem due to a hose

 

check your IACV, you should never have to adjust your idle screw. Also check your ignition timing. Has any work ever been done to your car or is this a recent occurrence?

 

I just recently got the car. I understand the vacuum probability, but I also know it runs great before it warms up and I also unplugged the o2 and drove around and it also drove much much better. I will check the iacv tomorrow hopefully. The timing belt was replaced 30k ago. I have the paperwork. The car was doing this when I got it.

 

its got to be you dizzy i had same issue and i put back oem problem went away actually it was breaking up in vtec on dyno i figured it out myself lol

 

Would it be the housing then because the ICM tested fine? Did not check the coil, however. I did notice a small amount of oil at the bottom inside the distributor. How would I test it?

 

it could be several things inside for example ignitor, coil, wires lose or broken wire and if oil that could also cause to hesitate you cant test everything... if you got spare dizzy try it on and see if problem goes away.

 

Just noticed I can start my car without depressing the clutch pedal. The car must constantly think it is depressed. Could this affect anything?

 

without pressing on the clutch it just means that the wires got crossed so you don't have to press the clutch down i highly doubt that has anything to do with it

 

yeah, didn't think so. I am working on getting another distributor to try.

 

I guess I should consider picking up a timing light

 

you can always test the dizzy with a voltmeter google it up on how to do it.....

 

Check the coil you mean?

 

naw im highly sure you can check the dizzy with a voltmeter.. you got to look into it

 

The distributor basically is just a housing with the icm, coil, and about 6 small wires inside.

 

your coil should be good. it either works or it doesnt at all. i say u have a vaccum leak.