I finally got my head off today and everything looks good, and my orings are copper. I have had my head off a couple times now with out changing them and seems to be the problem. The Orings are completly smashed and more in one area were the head gasket went. So I started trying with a pick for a little and the bastards will not budge.. Any special tools I need to buy or instructions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again guys.

 

Use a thin sharppic to pic it out. this was on my old block

 

Hey i have the same block, the way i did it was with a strong pick and tap it in with a mallet then start slowly going up with it. Once you get an end up it will be easy to pull it out. Hope that somewhat helps.

 

Interesting post, we just removed the copper orings from roops car and low and behold, the inner part of the sleeve came off with it. Not sure if the block is junk yet or not. AEBS sleeves. sucks

 

^^^ that's def not suppose to happen

 

I use a sharpened super small flat head screw driver, such as the ones, the matco and snap on tool truck guys give out.. I sharpened it to a point, but narrow, a bit smaller in width than the o ring groove,find the ends of the oring that butt against each other, use a small mallet to tap the "pick" dead center of where the ends meet(I only do this to break then the ends apart so the pick can get in there), then Gently tap "pick" on a shallow angle to the left or to the right to "lift" the wire up. use a small needle nose to take the whole wire out.

p.s. A good place to find replacement copper oring wire is Ace hardware or any sears hardware, they sell spools of it and its used for hanging up pictures etc. Copper o ring wire is nothing special.

package looks exactly like this but 18 gauge.

 

I am assuming its the same process etc... for aebs and golden eagle correct, and thanks to everyone for all your help and imput.

 

any pics? i cant picture what came off since its copper vs iron...copper is way softer..

 

Any special way to install/cut the copper?

 

This is what I do which seems to work, some may do it differently. Take the end of the spool of copper wire, and use a real fine file to square the edge, pull the wire towards u holding the file, don't go back and forth, if you do that sometimes the wire will get caught on the file and bend, take that end and gently use the end of a wooden hammer, or end of a screw driver and gently tap it into the groove, typically i start at twelve o' clock on the bore then, walk the wire around counter clockwise around the groove gently tapping till the wire "seats" in the groove, don't do it to hard or else your gonna flatten the wire to the point where its useless, as you make it around, stop tapping at the three o clock position and cut the spool of wire and inch or so past the starting point. you can then start tapping at the three o clock until you get to the one o clock position, overlay the wire over the end you started with, gauging where you need to cut, you always want to leave a tiny tiny bit over. Some use dikes, or end wire cutters to cut the copper wire, i use a brand new razor blade, then grab a piece of paper towal and tuck it under the wire and the bore, since you'll be using the file to square the edge of the wire and taking it down, you don't want all the shavings going into the bore or getting all over the rings. etc, thus tucking the paper towel underneath the end of the wire... It takes some patience and practice and you'll get the hang of it. make sure the ends always butt against each other, if they don't or there's a gap, start over, Assuming that you have all the wire in and the ends are butting against each other. you wanna walk your finger around the oring making sure the wire is seating evenly all the way around the bore, if not you'll feel little lumps in the wire, just gently take the end of the wooden hammer or end of the screwdriver and tap it down.

Good Luck




I found a link for you on golden eagles site, that may be useful as well.

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/includ...INGINSTALL.pdf

 

heres another thread jeff with a lil more info also.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...g+copper+rings
heres ahobbs write up on installing them. Nice write up btw.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...t=copper+rings

 

Thanks man, thats awesome!

 

Thanks bro, now get your *** down here and get these damn things out! haha

 

wow

 

wow over kill. I just butt the to ends up that i had cut with regular wire cutters, never have problems because when you torque the head the copper wire smashes together and closes any gaps. I just ****ing HATE removing them, i guess i need to sharpen some different tools to try.

 

After seeing some of the machine work that comes back on these blocks, I see why the oring bandaid is useful!!

 

Just a question..my friend hade a block o-ringed at a shop an the machinist used steel wire Vs cooper and has have nothing but problems with water mixing and cylinders leaking when air is added...question is can steel be used or should it always be cooper .head was also recieving...machinist stated thats how the have done it in P.R. for years...Thanks

 

to ones own i guess, i don't see file fitting a bad thing.

 

I'm no expert...but I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night....Copper will crush much easier then steel. That's why aircraft use steel to lockwire, not copper.

The idea here is to have the 18 gage copper wire that sticks up above the sleeve. When you torque the head down you compress the copper o-ring and increase the force (for lack of a better term) of the seal area.

Copper should always be use for this application.

 

yeah we did not use that motor for the last NSCRA...used a stock b18 and qualified # 1 for 11.50 index..thanxs again fred (HPC)...we will try the copper for the August event..But thanks for the insight...

 

Not to sound like a jerk but if your only running 11.50 index class, why did you build a engine with o-rings ? Sounds like overkill to me.

Hope your going to run the car again before Aug.

 

yeah file fitting is not a bad thing, but it takes like enough to remove and reinstall new orings, i replace ANYTIME the head is off. The rings are one time use.

 

Typically the steel o-rings are only used in apps with out water jackets like alcohol and Nitro engines. The Engines i have used steel orings on with water jackets i always used a copper head gasket. With out that there would be no give to create a good seal.

 

i thought i was good. I did my first install and the next morning i found coolant in my cylinders. And i thought i was good. Then realized it wasnt good enough. So for me to get it perfect the file worked best. and you know it's right with no gaps

 

That makes sense.