This isn't a huge deal but as I get bored on the weekends I tend to look for any little thing I can do to make my car run better. As I simply stated in the thread title, when my car is idling if I roll up my power windows the car idles rough, then after I roll it up the car idles fine, the same thing happens when I turn on the heater too when its just idling, not driving. I turn the heater off and it idles fine. I've cleaned out my EGR, IACV, and bled my coolant for air and the coolant was flushed by a certified mechanic about 300 miles ago. None of that has fixed this issues. I've also taken my car to Autozone and had them test my alternator and it was still operating up to par. Any pointers would be greatly appriciated, thanks.

 

well same with my car i think its just that the engine has to power one more thing and thats just what happens haha, but im not sure but thats just my $0.02.
also i have a 91 dx

 

normal, happens to me. me idle will drop slightly. if it really annoys you, you can raise the idle slightly so that when you do use other features, the idles will only fall to the point where your car will not idle rough.

 

have ur alternator tested the way i test it is by getting a battery / alternator tester run the car turn on radio, wipers, headlight low and high beam, ac / heat ur alternator should be putting out bet 12v -14v even with all the draining in process

 

I'm surprised I didn't think of that. Thanks for the advice, I will definately try that. I have a multimeter so that should work.

 

This vintage Accord has an Electrical Load Detector (ELD) circuit that is supposed to sense electrical load and provide input to the ECM to control the IAC valve to maintain idle speed with high electrical demand. Does the idle get even worse if you continue to turn on other electrical circuits (headlights, rear defogger, wipers, etc)? Any CEL codes, particularly 20? The ELD is in the front left corner of the underhood fuse box, 3 pin connector. With ignition switch on, there should be battery voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and the BLK (-) terminal, 5 volts from GRN/RED terminal to body ground. With everything connected, engine at idle (warmed up), with light switch at first position voltage between pin A26 and D10 at ECU should be 1.8 - 2.8 volts. With switch at second position, voltage should be 0.8 - 1.8 volts. If it isn't replace the ELD, if it is, troubleshooting says substitute a known good ECM.