Check engine light is on, but no Codes Flash!?!
Here is the setup.
JDM H22a, w/ auto to manual conversion, P72 chipped ECU with Hondata s200.
Everything was working before I had to change transmissions, there were no codes but ABS light, cause of bad sensors.
So installed newer working transmission, and got the car running, but ever since its been back on the road there is no vtec. It had idle problems, and jerkyness, some stalling, so i bleed the coolant and re calibrated the idle, that seemed to fix everything but the no vtec problem.
When i jumper the service connector the check engine light goes off, but the abs light flashes 41.
I tried disconnecting other sensors, and i still do not get any codes from the check engine light. Im pretty sure the codes should come from the check engine light...
Only thing i think i did that could of possibly screwed things up was un bolting the engine fuse panel to get a fallen nut. Im pretty certain there was no sparks are anything.
So car drives fine, oh, after i bleed the coolant i had to re adjust the idle cause it went down couple hundred rpm. Now i have it at about 1k, but at different times in the day it idles 1200 or 900 and with ac or heat on it fluctuates and cant hold idle, i want to adjust it up but dont want normal idle to be high, also dont know where that ac idle boost adjustment is..
Any ways, whats blocking vtec, and why will the dash illuminate the check engine light but not flash codes? So far from doing a search people indicate bad ecu. So maybe i need to go through a P13 in there, any other ideas would be appreciated, thanks!
JDM H22a, w/ auto to manual conversion, P72 chipped ECU with Hondata s200.
Everything was working before I had to change transmissions, there were no codes but ABS light, cause of bad sensors.
So installed newer working transmission, and got the car running, but ever since its been back on the road there is no vtec. It had idle problems, and jerkyness, some stalling, so i bleed the coolant and re calibrated the idle, that seemed to fix everything but the no vtec problem.
When i jumper the service connector the check engine light goes off, but the abs light flashes 41.
I tried disconnecting other sensors, and i still do not get any codes from the check engine light. Im pretty sure the codes should come from the check engine light...
Only thing i think i did that could of possibly screwed things up was un bolting the engine fuse panel to get a fallen nut. Im pretty certain there was no sparks are anything.
So car drives fine, oh, after i bleed the coolant i had to re adjust the idle cause it went down couple hundred rpm. Now i have it at about 1k, but at different times in the day it idles 1200 or 900 and with ac or heat on it fluctuates and cant hold idle, i want to adjust it up but dont want normal idle to be high, also dont know where that ac idle boost adjustment is..
Any ways, whats blocking vtec, and why will the dash illuminate the check engine light but not flash codes? So far from doing a search people indicate bad ecu. So maybe i need to go through a P13 in there, any other ideas would be appreciated, thanks!
have u tried resetting the ecu yet (pull clock/radio fuse for 10 secs)?
if so, i would try switching out the ecu for a known good p13 and see where that gets u
if so, i would try switching out the ecu for a known good p13 and see where that gets u
yea ecu has been reset by the clock fuse many times, maybe i need to try the neg battery?
Also looking for a cheap p13 but they are all expensive...
Also looking for a cheap p13 but they are all expensive...
Yep, sounds like bad wiring somewhere to/from/at the ECU. I would try getting the codes pulled through the OBD port and see if you can get them that way.
sounds like chip prob. http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/...roubleshooting
sounds like chip prob. http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/...roubleshooting
Thanks mooze, this looks to be the best route to examine.
OK everyone, Problem solved. hondata s200 sucks. When you have a s200 it blocks your Check engine light from indicating codes when the service connector is jumpered. So the only way to get your codes is to connect to the s200, but the s200 has a serial connection and you have to get a converter to usb. Well i tried this and the romeditor4 software off hondata. Didnt connect. So i guess i will try one more 30 dollar converter i heard to use made by keyspan. Or buy the romeditor4 i guess for 200 just to get hondata's serial to usb cable? i guess, but im not up for that option.
So what i had to do is cut the loop on the board that makes the chip work, when you cut this loop i think its on j11 or j12 right next to the socketed chip, it makes the ecu operate as stock again.
Then i was able to jumper the service connector and get my codes. I got code 7 which was TPS and inspected the TPS connections, since the wires were wrapped and tapped so good i had to unravel to see that one of the wires was snagged and not making a connection anymore, so i fixed that and then had a hell of time re soldering the loop i cut to get the s200 working again, and now the car is running good,
but i think the tps needs to get re cailibrated.
Second bit of advice for anyone changing a transmission or clutch, or rear engine mount,
Be carefull how you move the engine around or work in the engine bay this is how sensors get damaged. And is prob what i did to my car... pulling that L bracket in and out to change the inserts on my rear engine mount.
So what i had to do is cut the loop on the board that makes the chip work, when you cut this loop i think its on j11 or j12 right next to the socketed chip, it makes the ecu operate as stock again.
Then i was able to jumper the service connector and get my codes. I got code 7 which was TPS and inspected the TPS connections, since the wires were wrapped and tapped so good i had to unravel to see that one of the wires was snagged and not making a connection anymore, so i fixed that and then had a hell of time re soldering the loop i cut to get the s200 working again, and now the car is running good,
but i think the tps needs to get re cailibrated.
Second bit of advice for anyone changing a transmission or clutch, or rear engine mount,
Be carefull how you move the engine around or work in the engine bay this is how sensors get damaged. And is prob what i did to my car... pulling that L bracket in and out to change the inserts on my rear engine mount.
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rluder21
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Apr 10, 2006 06:00 PM




