I have a 89 civic lx 5 speed with the stock dpfi.i got in it to go to the store it started right up i went forward then put it in reverse to turn around in the drive way and i killed it now it wont start back up..i checked if it has spark thats a yes and its getting fuel and i sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it still wont start..this car has started everytime untill now i also checked the timing and it is DEAD ON..please guys help its my dd and im stuck..

 

signal

 

did u use a timing light to check the timing?

 

SIGNAL??? whats that please explain.. and as far as the timing no i cant use a timimg light when its NOT running i lined the cam gear up and the bottom pully up with the marks..

 

haha good call sorry long day. well u got spark/fuel, timing. the last thing to check is compression.

 

Ya I'm thinkin it's compression but it started just fine and when I killed it it won't start now I don't have a compession tester tho this is just mind boggling

 

yea it could happen but thos are ur three major things to an engine.

 

Yep well I think I'm gonna pull the motor and start the build early

 

Well I'd like to get this thing runnin before I start the build just so I know I will not have a minor issue when the new bigger motor goes in so any help guys

 

Could also be weak spark (worn out wires, dirt on plugs, dist problems). At least this is what I would start with before ripping things apart.

 

Very true but I test spark the old fashion way (stick ur finger on the end of the sparkplug wire) and believe me it has plenty of spark lol tested all 4. And I tried different plugs and as far as a new dist. What inside the dist. Would cause it not to start but still spark?

 

its kinda one of them thing it work or it dosnt u need to check ur compression befor ur shoot in the dark. ur timing could of jumped a tooth. ik u said u did it but u got to check re check and triple check them kinda things.

 

Alrighty. Well I'm gonna try and pick up a comp. Check tool tomorrow. And I know for sure it's not running I checked many times. And let's say I do a comp. Check. What range should it b in to rule out the comp. What's to low of comp. For a motor not to run?

 

idk thats something u have to get a book or go on all data, or michell idk that off the top of my head u crank the car over 3 to 5 times i think for that engine its like 120-130 psi and it has to be 10% of with in one another. and do a leak down test.

 

How do I perform a leak down test lol never had to do one

 

do a dry test which is u put each cylinder to tdc on compression stroke so the intake and exhaust valves are closed u are filling the cylinder with air and see if u have a leak throw the rings and or the valves, but to eliminate the rings if there is any leaks then do a wet test dump a lil bit of oil in the cylinder.

 

Ok so I got a used coil of craigslist and it worked car started right up no problem. I then drove to the auto parts store and bought spark plugs got home changed them and it seamed to b running better than ever but about 4 hours later the car starts to sputter so I put half a tank of premium in it and it still no change then on the wAy home it starts running like it's on 3 cylinders and sounds like u mean Subaru. So I pull each spark plug wire and every cylinder is getting spark. A very weak spark. Can u guys help me out here I need my car back to life

 

Bump. Come on guys I need some help

 

Hello anybody wanna gimme some help

 

Hey come on I need some help. Big guy I really appreciate your input I would be very greatfull if anyone can give me anymore ideas or suggestions with the givin info I have ruled out fuel compresion and timing and somewhat spark considering I tried a different coil but I need some help here guys

 

Try replacing the fuel injector resistor box. You'd think it couldn't cause these problems but I've talked to some guys who say it might. I'm sure these are cheap enough at the boneyard.

 

Ok well for one my car does not have the resister box considering it's still the DPFI. Anyway so I pulled the somewhat new and used coil along with the ignition control module and went to auto zone to have them checked. My old coil is DEAD my newish coil is reading 1.1 resistance and 12.xx for voltage specs show the voltage is good but resistance should be between 0.3-0.7 the old coil also read 1.1 and so did the almost new coil out of an obd2 distributor maybe the guy had the volt meter on the wrong setting I have no clue but I had them test the ignition module and it FAILED. So I pulled the module out of the obd2 distributor and put it in my obd0 distributor. Now my car runs and get pretty good spark but it sounds like it's missing it kinda sounds like a "puff......puff................puff puff puff" kinda thing and it's not consitant it kind of a random order like it's missing but still burning fuel. I have checked the timing and it's good I also just replaced spark plugs. I'm thinkin it's cuz I have a obd2 part in an obd0 distributor and that same puff sound is effecting the cars drivability when it "puffs" car kinda lags like it's missing. Also if I put my hand on the exhaust tip when the "puff" happens it sucks my hand in like a vacum some help would b nice guys thanks

 

Hey guys I need some help. Evening BUMP

 

did you buy the ngk brand wires and plugs? if not, try that. the house brand wires and bosch stlye plugs overpower the stock coil, which in return would cause your coil to go out.

 

Well when I bought the car he had reciepts for plugs cap rotor and wires I'm not sure what brand the cap and rotor are but the plugs where Bosch platinum 2 and the wires are Bosch also. But I replaced spark plugs with Ngk and I'm still running the wires the car ran perfect without flaw untill the 3rd day I owned it I have replaced coil and ignition module with a used set out of a distributor I know works but the casing was cracked so I couldn't use it. So what your saying is the bosh wires can cause a weak spark or missing/misfire????!