im running a b18c in my ef8 using the obd0 loom and using a obd1 conversion harness. car was running normal (am changing because it had a bit of throttle hesitation and have already changed spark plugs and leads so dizzy was next). well the dizzy i brought to try was a TD44U and goes into the cam but doesn't sit flush with the head, so i didnt bolt it down incase i broke somthing as it wasn't fitting in like my old dizzy was (TD68U). so i repinned my old dizzy and put it back in. the problem is the car wont idle or rev past 500 rpm just bogs itself when i try use throttle. its fully advanced, i retard it and it makes it worse. checked for CEL codes and none come up. can anyone tell me what i have done wrong?

 

how do uk the dizzy is bad?

 

when i done the conversion it was wired in wrong and cranked it over and it would run and die etc then figured it out. so im eliminating problems as i have a throttle responce problem and havn't had my car running right. so was swaping them as i have changed everything else in the car other than the ecu to try fix this problem.

 

yea ur best bet is to check every thing with a dvom, and make sure ur specs are right. but it sound like a fuel problem to me.

 

are you sure its not something like a TPS?

 

it could be but thats why u have iat sensor just incase that goes take ur dvom and test it i belive its the center wire back probe it its a 5 v ref so the voltage will jump between .5v at closed throttle and about 2.5v at half and 4.5v w.o.t.

 

yea i had checked all them and it was fine
so i went and changed the dizzy to try to elimating the problem with throttle hesitation.
but now when trying to put in my old dizzy its not even running now, cant advance or retard the timing to get anywhere near where its ment to line up with the timing light.
its about 3 inchs away where its ment to line up when setting the timing with the light.

 

well did u put ur 1 cylinder to tdc and set ur dizzy to 1 cylinder ??

 

but doesnt the dizzy only go in one way? so there would be no need to set it to TDC, thats what ive read from off these forums.

 

iik that wat every one says take the cap of and set ur rotor to the number one cylinder and set ur motor to tdc and make sure it on compression stroke and not exhausted lol let me know if that works

 

ok ill try that, now and ill crank it over and see what happens

 

tried that didnt help, think the timing belt has slipped as when i line TDC up with the pully the cam dots dont line up with each other.

 

that will be ur problem. line tdc with ur cranks marks

 

yea im going to change the belt while i am at it, not sure why it would have jumped teeth. the pully TDC mark when lined up it ment to make the cam TDC marks line up also aye?

 

yea u have a timeing mark on ur crank pully and on ur cam gear pullys. the word up should be facing up and have the lil line meet each other center of the cam. make sure u have the #1 cylinder (which is the farthest away from the dizzy) at tdc and good luck its a bitch trying to get them dual head timed right. lol

 

oh ok, and i make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC by going off the crank pully right?

 

no not realy cause u can be on tdc on exhaust stroke u got to make sure it is on compression stroke. wat i do is remove all the spark plugs and stick ur finger in where the spark plug was ik its a ways down there but u will feel air come up when u trun the engine over by hand and then u know that ur on compression. now u just have to line the lines up on the crank and the timing mark on ur block.

 

correct. i don't know what the guy above is talking about.

go off the single mark at 0 degrees btdc. the other 3 marks are for when you set your ignition timing.

 

^ that for distributor timeing not valve timeing

 

what is so hard about the picture to understand. like i said the single mark that's on its own is used to set mechanical timing. put the crank at 0btdc and the cam UP. you don't adjust the mechanical timing, you adjust ignition timing. which is what the 3 other marks are for.

 

thats wat i said

 

no, you said this.

if the crank is on the tdc mark then cyl 1 is at tdc of compression stroke. you said it might not be.

 

okwats wrong with that the piston has four stroke in an engine intake, compression, power, and exhausted. how many times is that piston at tdc 2x compression and exhausted. and that mark can and will be line up either on compression or exhausted.

 

i don't know how you're not understanding this. whether the engine is at the tdc of comp. or tdc of exhaust stroke is dependant on where the cam and valves are correct? therefore if the cam gear is facing up it indicates tdc of compression. so if you set crank at tdc mark 0 degrees then the engine will now be in correct mechanical time.

 

ok but that not wat we were taking about if u read the couple post befor that we already talk about that... there a spec for every thing and setting time on this type of vehicle it put ur #1 piston on tdc compression. then set ur cam gears with the word up, up. and match the 2 lines up with each other. and for ur dizzy set the rotor to the #1 postion. iam 200% sure that the right way to set time on a b ser i only have done it 100X.