Question : Full Synthetic Motor Oil
Has anyone put Full Synthetic Motor Oil in there RSX, its time for my oil change and i just wanted to see if any one had put in Synthetic oil, i dont know it i should stick regular motor oil.. or if i should put in the synthetic oil
Has anyone put Full Synthetic Motor Oil in there RSX, its time for my oil change and i just wanted to see if any one had put in Synthetic oil, i dont know it i should stick regular motor oil.. or if i should put in the synthetic oil
Good luck bro.
Ive had nothing but bad luck with sysnths. I was basically losing a quart a month or so on my B18C5. It became too expensive and since I changed my oil every 2500 miles it was a waste of money anyways.
Contrary to popular belief conventional oils wont start to coke up until the additives are used up. So until you wear the oil out, its basically the same as synth oil. Convential is also formulated to go 6500+ miles these days and synths well over 10K. So if you change your oil at 2500 like I do, a synth is really pointless. The power gain is felt from the drop in wieghts. Im pretty sure that F1nal dropped from a 10W30 to a 5W30 synth. That will make the car feel better.
Id stick to the Honda 10-30 or 5-30. I like to go with 5 weights higher than recomended by the book. In your case the RSX is recomended 0W30 so I would go with a 5. Maybe even a 10 in the summer. But if you change your oil religiously there is no reason to go to synth.
Besides, your motor isnt formulated with synths in mind. If it was, Honda would make a full synth oil. They only make a blend. Most of the cars that recomend synths, your Porches and what not, the book says what kind of oil to use and the motor was developed with those oils in mind.
I have yet to see someone prove that a synthetic is best for a street motor. A race motor yes, but a car thats driven everyday... Havent seen real conclusive proof that synthetic is better. Just a lot of hersey.
And just so you know you have opened up a serious case of worms with this...
Contrary to popular belief conventional oils wont start to coke up until the additives are used up. So until you wear the oil out, its basically the same as synth oil. Convential is also formulated to go 6500+ miles these days and synths well over 10K. So if you change your oil at 2500 like I do, a synth is really pointless. The power gain is felt from the drop in wieghts. Im pretty sure that F1nal dropped from a 10W30 to a 5W30 synth. That will make the car feel better.
Id stick to the Honda 10-30 or 5-30. I like to go with 5 weights higher than recomended by the book. In your case the RSX is recomended 0W30 so I would go with a 5. Maybe even a 10 in the summer. But if you change your oil religiously there is no reason to go to synth.
Besides, your motor isnt formulated with synths in mind. If it was, Honda would make a full synth oil. They only make a blend. Most of the cars that recomend synths, your Porches and what not, the book says what kind of oil to use and the motor was developed with those oils in mind.
I have yet to see someone prove that a synthetic is best for a street motor. A race motor yes, but a car thats driven everyday... Havent seen real conclusive proof that synthetic is better. Just a lot of hersey.
And just so you know you have opened up a serious case of worms with this...
Come up to Winnipeg and I will show you the difference between syn and reg oils. On a -30C day, try starting a car with syn compared to regular. The syn equiped engine will crank MUCH easier. Also, it has been proven that syn oils are worth a couple horsepower.
Mike
02 TypeS
Mike
02 TypeS
Come up to Winnipeg and I will show you the difference between syn and reg oils. On a -30C day, try starting a car with syn compared to regular. The syn equiped engine will crank MUCH easier. Also, it has been proven that syn oils are worth a couple horsepower.
Mike
02 TypeS
Mike
02 TypeS
The reason they are worth more HP is becaue people put in a lower viscocity oil. A 10W30 synth vs a 10W30 conventional will yield at most 1 more HP. Thats it. People go from a recommended 10W30 to a 5W20 synth of course HP is going to be gained. Less resistance. However an equally weighted oil will really not have a HP gain.
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I think the topic of synthetics will be hotly debated for some time to come. I, myself, believe in the stuff. Here's what I have personally found out with my rice-rocket (I've run Amsoil since the day I got it/rebuilt it):
- The manufacturing tolerances of these things is amazing. The difference between "good" and "bad" can be as little as 10 microns (10 millionths of a meter), a human hair is about 50 microns! The last thing you want is the oil to break down at 14,000 RPM.
- As the guy from Winnipeg mentioned: you'd be amazed at how thick "dinosaur juice" gets even near freezing (32 F). The synthetics are waaay better...I think Mobil 1 starts getting goopy at about -30 F.
- Synthetics are not broken down by moisture or gasoline. In climates that change from warm to cold a lot (like MI during the winter), condensation can build up inside the crankcase. With a normal oil you'll have to change it frequently in these conditions. (By the way, some synthetics even claim to be better at inhibiting corrosion than standard oil.) Regardless, if your engine runs rich and gets some gas in the oil (even just one time), you'll have to change your oil. Not so with synthetics. If there is not an excessive amount of gas in the oil (too much and things will seize, even with synthetic), you can fire it up and burn the stuff out (gas and water), synthetics do not change characteristics after this stuff is gone!
- You don't have to change synthetics as often either (really, I'm not just pulling your chain). However, I still change my filters every 3000 (the engine still creates metal shavings). When I change the filter, I send a sample of the oil in to be tested...from this I can tell when I really need to change it. So far, my bike needs a change at about 10000 mi intervals. So the expense is about the same as normal oil. Bikes are FAR harder on their oils than cars (they run 100HP with a radiator the size of a piece of paper).
- Normal oils tend to have a high amount of "wax" in them. I've had to scrap this stuff off of some older engines I have rebuilt. Of course, if you religiously change your oil every 3000, the "wax" never seems to build up, and the engine will look every bit as clean as one run on synthetics.
- The down side: from my experience, synthetics seem to leak/burn more than normal oils. I don't use them in my Cavalier because she's loose with 125,000 mi and needs a quart every month with synthetic. Cleaning the crud off of the bike has just become a labor of love!
So the answer is: it depends. Everyone has different priorities, so both oils will be around for a long, long time.
- The manufacturing tolerances of these things is amazing. The difference between "good" and "bad" can be as little as 10 microns (10 millionths of a meter), a human hair is about 50 microns! The last thing you want is the oil to break down at 14,000 RPM.
- As the guy from Winnipeg mentioned: you'd be amazed at how thick "dinosaur juice" gets even near freezing (32 F). The synthetics are waaay better...I think Mobil 1 starts getting goopy at about -30 F.
- Synthetics are not broken down by moisture or gasoline. In climates that change from warm to cold a lot (like MI during the winter), condensation can build up inside the crankcase. With a normal oil you'll have to change it frequently in these conditions. (By the way, some synthetics even claim to be better at inhibiting corrosion than standard oil.) Regardless, if your engine runs rich and gets some gas in the oil (even just one time), you'll have to change your oil. Not so with synthetics. If there is not an excessive amount of gas in the oil (too much and things will seize, even with synthetic), you can fire it up and burn the stuff out (gas and water), synthetics do not change characteristics after this stuff is gone!
- You don't have to change synthetics as often either (really, I'm not just pulling your chain). However, I still change my filters every 3000 (the engine still creates metal shavings). When I change the filter, I send a sample of the oil in to be tested...from this I can tell when I really need to change it. So far, my bike needs a change at about 10000 mi intervals. So the expense is about the same as normal oil. Bikes are FAR harder on their oils than cars (they run 100HP with a radiator the size of a piece of paper).
- Normal oils tend to have a high amount of "wax" in them. I've had to scrap this stuff off of some older engines I have rebuilt. Of course, if you religiously change your oil every 3000, the "wax" never seems to build up, and the engine will look every bit as clean as one run on synthetics.
- The down side: from my experience, synthetics seem to leak/burn more than normal oils. I don't use them in my Cavalier because she's loose with 125,000 mi and needs a quart every month with synthetic. Cleaning the crud off of the bike has just become a labor of love!
So the answer is: it depends. Everyone has different priorities, so both oils will be around for a long, long time.
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very good oil.

