i have a standard 91 hatch with stupid dpfi. i bought the z6 complete manifold and the complete engine wiring harness. i wanna put it on my b2. i know i need a jumper harness but will it all work with a pm9 ecu?? any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

i understand the pm9 is like a pm5, in which case it will only run a dpfi engine. you need a different ecu.

here is a writeup on how to convert from dpfi to mpfi

http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/d...writeup-49557/

 

so i guess the z6 wiring harness is useless then? how would i go about running obd1 all the way through?

 

you'd have to run an obd1 civic dash and cabin harness. i'm going to assume that i don't need to explain to you why that would be a giant pain in the dick.

 

haha no you dont have to. i had to repin my underdash wiring from 91 civic to 89 crx cuz i did the swap. so whataya suggest i do? just bite the bullet find a pm6 and si harness?? plus the harnesses are ghostly around here thats why i picked up the z6. and will z6 intake manifold work? sorry so many questions this is my first dpfi to mpfi swap.

 

yes the z6 intake manifold will work.

you can't just use an si harness however. it won't work because your stock cabin harness lacks the wires for the dizzy cps sensor and the extra 2 injectors. so do find a pm6 ecu, but then get a dpfi stock harness for your car and convert it to mpfi.

http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/d...writeup-49557/

 

ok so i did some craigslisting and ive gotten alot of parts. i got the a6 intake manifold dizzy, ecu and harness. now i see on the write up (thanks so much for) how to run the wires to the engine bay and all. its for the dizzy and injectors. now can i just run the wires to the clips that theyre missing from? i understand how the underdash is missing the wires but once i run them like in the write up can i just connect them to the stock harnesses?

 

not sure what you mean by this? you picked up a dpfi harness right?

 

OK SO i did everything and i mean everthing that write up said. but my 10 and 12 werent empty. my 9 and 10 were. but now my pm6 says a code 10...iats idle air temp sensor?? i have no idea why.. i hooked everything up right, i checked for spark but how do you check for fuel? it wont start im guessing cuz of that sensor?

 

iat code won't prevent it from starting and running. not sure why you'd have that code now though..

as far as fuel goes, do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 second when you turn the key to run? you can check for fuel pressure by cracking the fuel rail banjo bolt loose and watching/listening for fuel escaping. i assume the fuel issue has more to do with the injectors though. are you using obd0 injectors or obd1 injectors? if obd1 then you have to delete the resistor box.

 

alright ill check for the fuel tomorrow i am using z6 injectors so i deleted the resistor by bonding all the wires? and what about the b10 and b12 i tried my hardest to understand the forum but my b9 and b10 were open not my b10 and b12 i dunno there is a white with red line in my b12

 

ok so i checked and i didnt install the dizzy right *slaps face* and i ran the yellow/black wire to the resistor area. and it started up, but now it idles extremely rough like bad!!! what could it be?

 

code 10 showing up after a swap usually means that you have the wrong connector plugged into the IAT sensor - the IAT sensor has a white 2-wire connector with 1 red with yellow stripe wire and 1 green with white stripe wire - you should have had one connector left over that doesn't go to anything (leave it not connected) - it is the connector for the DPFI tandem control valve and looks just like the connector for the IAT sensor - white 2-wire connector with 1 orange wire and 1 black with yellow stripe wire - you probably have this connector plugged into the IAT sensor

 

no i left it unplugged and the wire is the one youre talking about could it just be bad? and why would it idle extremely rough after the changeover?

 

i've read in the past that people have sometimes found wires in those positions even though they should be empty. from what i recall you can just cut and discard the wire going to that spot. and i can tell you that if the crank angle sensor is not hooked up to b10 and b12 that your car is not going to run.

 

well i hooked it all up and looked everything over then as it was idling i looked over and my ecu flashed a 3 then a 5 then a 10. and it was all over 1 hose!!! it was a vacuum leak! i felt dumb and relieved at the same time haha. but yeah my 10 is still there but she runs great!!! thanks so much for all your guys help!!!