90 Accord Quarter Panel Replacement, Looking for Tips
90 Accord, wheel well lip on both sides, inner and outer, are gone, dog legs gone, rust going forward along door jams, forward rear bumper mounts almost gone. Unbelievably I found a rust free shell in a local junkyard (Northern KY, 270+K miles?). They wouldn't sell me the shell, so I cut out the quarter panels as far inside as I could (painful to do to a rust free body). Couldn't resist, only $100 per side.
Anyone used body panel adhesive to put a CD7 back together? I have to cut mine open more to determine the extent of the damage, particularly in the rockers, but I envision cutting both to provide a 1/2 to 1 inch lap joint at the trunk floor and somewhere through the inner wheel housing and splitting the seam under the door weatherstripping. Only places that should require filler will be C pillar joint and rocker (which will be mostly hidden by sill and rocker cover). I believe welding is recommended at the rear joint near the taillight, the C pillar, and the rocker. Most of these places I can reach both sides of the joint. I have a spot weld saw, so I should be able to separate the panels from the bad side, leaving the good side of each joint intact, facilitating spot welding at these locations.
Anyone done this with a CD7? Specific tips about where it is easiest to cut and rejoin?
Anyone used body panel adhesive to put a CD7 back together? I have to cut mine open more to determine the extent of the damage, particularly in the rockers, but I envision cutting both to provide a 1/2 to 1 inch lap joint at the trunk floor and somewhere through the inner wheel housing and splitting the seam under the door weatherstripping. Only places that should require filler will be C pillar joint and rocker (which will be mostly hidden by sill and rocker cover). I believe welding is recommended at the rear joint near the taillight, the C pillar, and the rocker. Most of these places I can reach both sides of the joint. I have a spot weld saw, so I should be able to separate the panels from the bad side, leaving the good side of each joint intact, facilitating spot welding at these locations.
Anyone done this with a CD7? Specific tips about where it is easiest to cut and rejoin?
Last edited by fleetw00d; Apr 7, 2010 at 07:39 PM. Reason: additional info
Weld every joint. Im going to do it to my cb7 soon, trust me, if you use seam sealer for anything but keeping water out, you will be redoing it in a year.
here's a good write-up on doing quarter panels on a civic.
http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=24
here's a good write-up on doing quarter panels on a civic.
http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=24
I'm not talking about seam sealer. 3M makes an auto body panel adhesive 8115 and 8116 for use instead of welding on many joints for things like quarter panels, roof panels, door skins, etc.
If there's a easy way of doing it... then it ain't right.
Joining the 1/4 right before the roof line (just the way you have your donor piece) is best. Get rid of the inner skin of the 1/4 panel, you don't need that part, specially with that wheel well. Must undo the outer 1/4 panel from its inner skin, use a spot weld drill bit or just the good old pneumatic separator (will definetelly cause some small bends). Do the same to the actual vehicle, leave 1/4 of an inch to 1/2 of an inch of overlap and weld it all back.
Joining the 1/4 right before the roof line (just the way you have your donor piece) is best. Get rid of the inner skin of the 1/4 panel, you don't need that part, specially with that wheel well. Must undo the outer 1/4 panel from its inner skin, use a spot weld drill bit or just the good old pneumatic separator (will definetelly cause some small bends). Do the same to the actual vehicle, leave 1/4 of an inch to 1/2 of an inch of overlap and weld it all back.
dont use the 3m product to join the panels. i talk to 3m reps everyday they only recommend using it in areas that cant be welded. dont not use for structure it wont hold up
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