i posted this on hondatas forums, but i was hoping for a little insight from here since hondata takes forever to answer.

i bought a tune a bit ago from ebay from this guy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=250606531074

i had been using the injen sri base map, but it was kinda weak albeit ran safely. i gave this guys tune a shot and it feels faster (spinning tires in first now), but i have two safety concerns about it:

1) when i got WOT, my afr varies from 12.7-13.2ish all the way up to redline. is this dangerous? do i need to fix it?

2) i get a few small counts of knock when i go wot, like 3-4, most in cylinder 2. i also get a few counts of like 3-6 if i go WOT in 6th gear at low rpms.

because of those to issues, is it dangerous to be running this tune? should i go back to the basemap for now and take that map to a tuner to fix?

thanks

 

im pretty sure that a tad lean... should be around 12.4 at wot and holding, remember lean hurts motor, rich hurts power...

 

so im damaging my motor right now? is it severe enough that i should yank the tune?

 

no car will ever have the same tune, so buying a pre-made tune is a waste... unless your using it as a basemap, or a starting point... i say slap a FPR fuel pressure regulator on there a crank up the fuel a notch... then see what happens ...

also what are you modifications, and what tune are you using..?

 

well i dont think it was a waste since my car feels much stronger than the basemap, and i think my afr is pretty close as well as the knocks. to get a purely custom tune i was getting quotes of almost 500. i doubt it'd cost 450 to get a tuner to fix the minor things i have wrong. i just wanted to make sure it was ok to drive around until i have a tuner do the tweaks to perfect it.

im using the guys #1 tune, the one for the injen sri on his listing.

mods are injen sri, strup rh and skunk2 exhaust.

 

safe for no, just dont go beating on it everyday... your tuner should be able to work off that "basemap" may even charge less then 450

 

ok thanks man. ill avoid redlining it for now.

 

oh also, the tune has an 8600 RPM redline. once i get the afr fixed, is it safe to rev up that high? thanks

 

Correct

Well what you "THINK" and what you need are should not be mixed. Your car needs to be tuned period. A base map is not to go running around town like ricky road racer. Its a base map to get your car started and straight to the tunner. And a ebay basemap. From someone that took someone else map and changed a few things. I seen all these maps and they looked like crap. All these fake mugen and spoon maps. Hell my 12 year old nephew could make a base map that could start your car that he copied from someone. Give http://www.phearable.net/ a call if you need something to run. Atleast you have someone that knows what they are doing. Your going to end up with a blown engine.

What engine is it? Does it have valve train? Red line does not mean squat if it stops making power before redline. All your doing is stressing out the engine. You really need to take this to someone that knows what he or she is doing.

 

op, your afr is fine for an i/h/e setup.
mine is in the same area

 

its a k20z3, what other motor would it be? all i wanted to know is if it was safe, not if it was making power. it feels plenty powerful to me. and everyone else seems to be contradicting you if my afrs are in a safe range.

 

I let that speak for itself.

 

 

I got knock counts with hondata base maps, does that discredit them? of course not. if you're going to post, at least answer my question instead of projecting your own short-sighted values.

 

I am not going to agure with you. You are going to do what you want period. gl

 

I didn't know ebay could accurately tune A/F ratios under your specific engines load, including doing ignition timing and making up for the large differences in altitude North America has.

 

the car needs a final tune FINAL, its not safe, the reason why your car feel more powerful is cause its lean, not super lean, but lean enough to cause damange eventually... just take that tune and have it re-mapeds. youll be happier with the results.

plus you shouldnt be in redline with stock valvetrain... your just asking to drop a valve in a piston, or stretch your timing chain!

 

Guess what, THATS HOW MUCH IT COSTS TO TUNE A CAR. And a tuner won't be "fixing the minor things". He'll throw out your ebay tune and put a blank map with something like a 11.0 A/F across the board and tune from there.

 

Your AFRs should run in the 12.5 to 13.1 range. That is a safe zone for the Si. The stock wideband for the Si reads a lil off in comparison to the FP reading. so if you richen up your mix you should be in the safe zone. The reason for the knocks that you get is because the stock knock sensor is super sensitive. It picks up the slightest knocks and registers them. The reason for that is because the k20z3 is built to be revved high. A high revving is prone to knocks and it's safer to pick up everything than to pick up nothing at all. The reaso why you feel the extra power is because you are running a tad lean (as mentioned above). more air tothe system means more heat. heat travels faster which makes your engine work faster. that also causes more surface heat on the internals and will cause a lot of things to melt/slide/drop/throw. But it ultimately boils down to you get what you pay for. Save up the cheddar and get a real live tuner to tune your ride. You will be a lot happier and so will the car.

 

Why are all these ppl posting inhere! Your afr should be 12.7 to 13.2. That's a good afr for a bolt on 2006-2009 si. There is no need for a fpr. OP listen to the people that actually frive the 8th civics. Go to a tuner and getting it tund is a good idea. That cal you have is a starting point for you

 

i dont think it matters if you have the car/engine or not, all engines work off the same principal .... as i posted above, his tune is decent for now...but a final tune would be better then running a standard generic base-map.

as for why im posting in here..., its a free-roam forum...
so like i told my g.f," its mine and ill put it were i want too. "

ass_turtle - that tune is safe for now, but you should get a final tune from a respectable shop... also open up that exhaust/engine flow more, then get a finishing tune, this way you will have great results. sorry that this thread is confusing but the bottom line is...your safe for now...., just get it re-maped

 

wat?

 

lol, fixed it

 

0/2 man.

It's "where."

 

just an update for anyone whos interested. brought my car to a local tuner. he spent about 45 minutes working off that tune i got from ebay. told me my fuel was close but could use a tiny adjusting, pulled back a little bit of timing to remove the knock i was having and cleaned up my cam angles, even though he admitted they were suprisingly close for a generic tune. I got lucky with getting a close tune to what i needed. in the end, i spent $50 on the ebay tune and $75 for the tuner to fix it. all in all, $125 for a tune that feels perfect now. just what i was hoping to achieve.