2.1L B18cR
Yes it is all NA. No, I'm sorry I don't have the exact specs but ill ask for you. I do know aside from the 2.1 stroker motor he has a Hytech header, intake, and custom 3" exhause, tuned by Shawn Church on a Hondata S300.
Last edited by PYITR678; Mar 26, 2010 at 06:55 PM.
Why stroke it out? A nice set of cams and a good header goes a long way, and you don't have to crack open our perfectly built Honda motor.
Do you mean the difference between a Stock B18C6 and a 2.1 liter B-Engine ?
i got a 230hp 2 Liter and its definitely a big difference
Especially the midrange torque is much higher...
i have already 130 lb/ft torque @ 2000rpm ( approximately the same as a stock B18 peak) and rising constantly to 165 lb/ft ...
this is really funny to drive ! increasing the displacement is imho always a good idea !
i got a 230hp 2 Liter and its definitely a big difference

Especially the midrange torque is much higher...
i have already 130 lb/ft torque @ 2000rpm ( approximately the same as a stock B18 peak) and rising constantly to 165 lb/ft ...
this is really funny to drive ! increasing the displacement is imho always a good idea !
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Do you mean the difference between a Stock B18C6 and a 2.1 liter B-Engine ?
i got a 230hp 2 Liter and its definitely a big difference
Especially the midrange torque is much higher...
i have already 130 lb/ft torque @ 2000rpm ( approximately the same as a stock B18 peak) and rising constantly to 165 lb/ft ...
this is really funny to drive ! increasing the displacement is imho always a good idea !
i got a 230hp 2 Liter and its definitely a big difference

Especially the midrange torque is much higher...
i have already 130 lb/ft torque @ 2000rpm ( approximately the same as a stock B18 peak) and rising constantly to 165 lb/ft ...
this is really funny to drive ! increasing the displacement is imho always a good idea !
haha, good question 
the idea is not bad at all, but sadly too expensive... with an fuel price of 1,70 Dollar per liter and an car insurance of more than 3000 dollar per year *lol* (at least in my country)
But seriously... increasing the displacement of a b-series engine is maybe not the cheapest but surely one of the best ways to get power...
You get more torque, more peak hp , a wider useable powerband,....finally you get an engine thatīs better in every situation

the idea is not bad at all, but sadly too expensive... with an fuel price of 1,70 Dollar per liter and an car insurance of more than 3000 dollar per year *lol* (at least in my country)
But seriously... increasing the displacement of a b-series engine is maybe not the cheapest but surely one of the best ways to get power...
You get more torque, more peak hp , a wider useable powerband,....finally you get an engine thatīs better in every situation
Do you mean the difference between a Stock B18C6 and a 2.1 liter B-Engine ?
i got a 230hp 2 Liter and its definitely a big difference
Especially the midrange torque is much higher...
i have already 130 lb/ft torque @ 2000rpm ( approximately the same as a stock B18 peak) and rising constantly to 165 lb/ft ...
this is really funny to drive ! increasing the displacement is imho always a good idea !
i got a 230hp 2 Liter and its definitely a big difference

Especially the midrange torque is much higher...
i have already 130 lb/ft torque @ 2000rpm ( approximately the same as a stock B18 peak) and rising constantly to 165 lb/ft ...
this is really funny to drive ! increasing the displacement is imho always a good idea !
this is a good explanation

of course it depends on how much power the B20/B21 has...but these 250hp 2+ liter Monsters are that kind of "hell braking loose"
driving my engine in low rpms the power is approximately the same as a stock B18.
my vtec switching point is set at 5500rpm and at this time the engine puts out 162 lb/ft and 188 hp
can u post ur dyno graph on that monster??? besides havin the stroker what other parts r u runnin on that thing... and i know this might sound dumb but whats the diffrence from the jdm c5 to ur c6
the engine is stroked (89mm) and sleeved (84mm). Compression is 12,5:1 with Crower 2 "3/4" cams a custom Hytech header.
to my knowledge the B18c6 is the official engine code of all european integras, the c5 of all US Integra ?? both have 190 horses stock.
the B18C is the japanese integra engine with 200hp. Please correct me if iīam wrong.
PS:
hereīs the dyno graph (dyno was a Bosch FLA203)
the last run are the thick lines (the thin lines are another Setup)
I know...the curves are a little bit scuffy, and thereīs a laggy point after the vtec switching point but i hope i can fix it with a better map...
170 Kw -> 231 hp
223 Nm -> 165 lb/ft
I felt a very big difference.
Here is a good dyno comparison of my setup. The only change between the Green and Red is the 2.0L block and a tune.
I am at close to 230whp now. Very streetable.
Here is a good dyno comparison of my setup. The only change between the Green and Red is the 2.0L block and a tune.
I am at close to 230whp now. Very streetable.
@ 92TypeR -> Great Built !! perfect example how powerful more displacement can be in EVERY situation
... and streetable anyway !
@ VTECROAR96typeR -> the car is not the fastest, but for me it is enough in a street FWD Car.
high power FWD turbos are fast at the straights (oh hell yes they are !!) but not so perfect for cornering. You need good chassis mods to make these turbocars controlable in corners.
but as i say, i am not fan of wheelspin in 3rd gear...
With such 2 liter NA-engines and good driver skills you can drive the car really fast on track and on the street.
i think i would make me some enemys here on hondatech, but if you prefer a CONTROLABLE 450whp Monster, it is better to change to a evo or impreza.
And one for sure -> Turbo-hp are always cheaper than NA-hp
... and streetable anyway !@ VTECROAR96typeR -> the car is not the fastest, but for me it is enough in a street FWD Car.
high power FWD turbos are fast at the straights (oh hell yes they are !!) but not so perfect for cornering. You need good chassis mods to make these turbocars controlable in corners.
but as i say, i am not fan of wheelspin in 3rd gear...
With such 2 liter NA-engines and good driver skills you can drive the car really fast on track and on the street.
i think i would make me some enemys here on hondatech, but if you prefer a CONTROLABLE 450whp Monster, it is better to change to a evo or impreza.
And one for sure -> Turbo-hp are always cheaper than NA-hp
when I went sleeved my block to 84.5mm, i noticed a huge difference... my setup was exactly the same except for the sleeved block and a retune... my 1/4 mile ET improved by 0.8 seconds...
wow u guys both have really nice builds... lookin into the b.c. stroker to replace my b18b bottom ls/v.. its boosted at 10psi now and i just bought the car and want more after 3 weeks but cant raise the boost pressure cause its a stock bottom end... this thread is makin me want to break out the credit card... do u guys think if i do the stroker with this set up it will no longer b street-able?? i know i can always lower the boost but its just that thought of havin that kind of power for the fools who take every honda as a joke...
Are you running Pro1's now or Pro2's?
@ sti grip -> i took my oem ITR Block an fitted some custom steel-sleeves with 84mm bore
if you want to go on high boost it is imho necessary to do rods & Pistons of course AND the block/sleeves. It is not done with a stoker kit only 
i personally wonīt boost a stock B18 with stock sleeves over 15 psi for longer times...
But at max 14-15 psi and forged rod/pistons you should get some nice numbers !!
But be alerted -> by only increasing the stroke of an engine to get more displacement will raise the pistonspeed !!! That means you canīt rev so high any longer....
it is always better (but more expensive) to get an average ratio between stroke & bore.
@ OH_1fstgsr -> if i interpret 92TypeR graph right he is running stock ITR Cams...no Skunk Pros
wow u guys both have really nice builds... lookin into the b.c. stroker to replace my b18b bottom ls/v.. its boosted at 10psi now and i just bought the car and want more after 3 weeks but cant raise the boost pressure cause its a stock bottom end... this thread is makin me want to break out the credit card... do u guys think if i do the stroker with this set up it will no longer b street-able?? i know i can always lower the boost but its just that thought of havin that kind of power for the fools who take every honda as a joke...

i personally wonīt boost a stock B18 with stock sleeves over 15 psi for longer times...
But at max 14-15 psi and forged rod/pistons you should get some nice numbers !!
But be alerted -> by only increasing the stroke of an engine to get more displacement will raise the pistonspeed !!! That means you canīt rev so high any longer....
it is always better (but more expensive) to get an average ratio between stroke & bore.
@ OH_1fstgsr -> if i interpret 92TypeR graph right he is running stock ITR Cams...no Skunk Pros


