92 civic cx d16z6 swapped replaced head with rebuilt head arp studs cometic head gasket. copied old head setup; timing and iginition. no ecu codes car gets fuel and spark but will not start. dont know wat to do. retarded ignition and still won't start. cranking but not startin, i can def hear the fuel pump workin too.... gah someone help please

 

Correct timing belt?? Is timing correct?*?*?

 

not sure but timing belt n gear was markd n put back on exactly the way it came off. any other suggestions?

 

First, check the timing properly by the factory marks.

Just because the fuel pump is pumping doesn't mean you're getting fuel. You can have clogs anywhere between the pump and the injectors.

Have you made sure you didn't put any of the wires in the wrong order?

Did you touch the bottom end at all?

 

wiring is all properly where they go. and its gettin fuel i checked the spark plugs and they were covered in fuel. n timing is properly put back in the way it came out.

 

Your plugs should not be covered in fuel. That means they are fouling out. There are a few possible causes:
Wrong temp range spark plugs
Failed fuel pressure sensor
Clogged air filter

Fouled plugs will not fire. You need to remove them and clean them thoroughly or replace them.

 

air filter not clogged, even took it off the intake pipe. factory heat range brand new spark plugs no need to clean them. there is no fuel pressure sensor on a d16z6, maybe your thinking fpr?, and if ive been cranking the car for a good while trying to diagnose the issue; eventually fuel would get on the plugs if its not igniting. ive tested each wire and have spark on all of them

 

Yes, regulator is what I meant, sorry. If you have a failing/failed regulator it could be feeding too much fuel or not enough.

Once a plug is soaked in fuel it needs to be cleaned or replaced. It is meant to ignite when fuel hits it and burn off the fuel. When it is covered in fuel it will not ignite due to an improper air/fuel ratio. Flooding your cylinders with fuel is bad. It will wash the oil off the cylinder walls preventing proper lubrication and allow damage to occur much quicker to the cylinder walls.

Clean the plugs off and put them back in. Put your foot all the way down on the throttle and hold it while trying to start the car. If it starts it's reading you have too much air or not feeding it enough fuel due to a faulty regulator.

 

so set timing still not running getting fustrated now

 

If it's timed right, has proper spark, has proper fuel, then it only leaves compression. It's the only part left. Run a compression check and post what you find.

 

have you checked or tried a different distributor? it'll still spark if it's faulty, depending on how faulty it is.. or a cracked cap? cracked line?

 

Double check your firing order, if you rebuilt the distributor, check to make sure its not off 180 deg. internally. Check all your fuses under the hood and under dash. Make sure the ECU matches the motor.

 

Check your grounds and make sure that mechanical timing is correct.

 

check compression and or your valve lash.

After I got my cylinder head back from the machine shop, they said i would need to set my valve lash. Of course excited with my build, I forgot to set it. So, at start up it didn't start. I had air/fuel/spark and my timing was correct. When i remembered to iniciate my valve lash, that's when it started right up. GL and I hope this helps.

 

are you suer that your spark plug wires are in the right order? i had this issue before and it was the spark plug wires which were mixed up.

 

running...finally... took off valve cover adjusted valves.....car cranked....had to rotate dizzy 180 dunno why it was set where it was before....compression. 1-180, 2-182, 3-173, 4-190. seems ok some slightly higher than normal temps but i think all the bubbles have finally gotten out. it does need a fuel pump as it has a random tendency to not work unless i smack the gas tank. for completely unknown mileage other than the sticker on the timing belt cover that said 160xxx so it was definately higher than that id say the compression is good across the board. i believe 185 is normal. someone correct me if im wrong. thanks everyone for their help...next step is boosting it X)

 

nice, glad u got it working

 

if you havn't touched the bottom end, you are asking for trouble by boosting it. atleast take the head back off, have it bored to 76mm and put a set of vitara pistons in it and you will be a little safer, plus you will have a better seal, if the current compression is lower than normal. dont half *** it, do it right and make it last.