so I'm new to this forced induction topic and have many questions on what i need to buy and questions on tuning/which ecu. I'm in college so I'm trying to build a car that's also my daily driver here in Illinois (emissions questions also)

power goal 200-215 Hp to the wheels

current motor set-up
2000 Honda civic si with 54K original miles b16a2
comptech headers
thermal r&d cat back exhaust
AEM cold air intake

toys waiting to be installed

1.jackson racing super charger w/ 8 psi pulley (not a complete Kit and finding out whats missing and making it complete)
2. AEM fuel rail
3. AEM FPR
4. skunk2 cam tuner gears

questions

1. i live in a state with emissions so i have to pass it or pay like 500 bucks. Is there any way to have the car TUNED ON OBD2?

2.if i can't tune the car on OBD2 then which ECU should i get for obd1 system? p28?

3.when emissions date comes around will i be able to just plug in my stock ecu (p2t) and let it just run crappy? will i pass?

4.if i get a chipped ecu do i need to buy hondata system? crome? AEM
(Remember i'm in college so money is tight)

5.will hondata s200 work? of course with boost option

6. was planning to get rc 310cc injectors. will this work for the setup and power goal im looking for?

7.how much does a tune usually cost?

8.is this set up practical for a daily driver?

thanks in advance for any help

 

if you want to be emissions legal you should get an emissions legal kit like edelbrocks turbo kits i think theirs is 50 st legal. i dont know about jrsc kits. i know my turbo setup is far from legal, but i live in alabama, so it dont matter for me

 

bump anyone else?

 

bump is it possible to tune this set up with s100?

 

Chrome is free, just pay for the obd1 ecu and socketing and then your tuner will burn you a chip when you go for a tune... My tuner charges 150 and hour on the dyno... it might vary though

Hondata and other more reliable tuning options are a bit more expensive 400+ bucks

Never heard of a obd2 tuned car unless your referring to newer models civics and acuras

For the power that your looking for i would stick with just bolt ons, depending on what kind of engine your gonna have

emissions really depends on where you live... some places require you top plug up your ecu to scan for codes and make sure the sensors are ready..... others require a sniffer test or dyno run. Check with you local motor vehicle department about what they require and plan accordingly.... The thing with swithcing back and forth between obd1 and obd2 is making sure that all the emissions control equipment is in place....

 

I know that the emissions here at my local motor vehicle department uses the plug in method to scan for codes

 

its a lot trouble to build an obd2 car.you could swap a h22 in for about the same amount of cash and have stock reliability. but would it be emissions legal where you live?