I just got a B16A and am replacing valve springs with ITR dual intake and exhaust springs. I was hoping to do this without removing the head, but am running into a problem.
The problem is I cant get the cylinders to hold any pressure. I have put together an air system to pressurize the cylinders and the air is bleeding out of each cylinder I try. So am I looking at bad rings? Already dumped a little oil down each cylinder to try and get the compression back up, but so far nothing. Do I possibly have a bad head gasket? Any help from those of you who have replaced your valve springs without removing the head, please chime in and tell me if I am doing something wrong. Or if I have a bigger problem that needs to be repaired before I continue with my build.
Thanks, Tim

 

You could always do a real compression test to see how you're doing, but if you can't hold 100 psi for at least a few minutes it doesn't sound like a good sign.

To keep the valves from dropping, some people drop rope into the combustion chamber and then crank the piston up until it's tight. The rope compresses and fills the combustion chamber, pressing the valves up, but it's soft and won't damage anything. Then you can safely remove the valve springs and not have to worry about the valves dropping. When you're done you remove the rope and go on to the next cylinder. It would probably be a good idea to leave one end of the rope dangling out of the spark plug hole so you don't have to fish around for it! I've never done this but I've heard people talk about doing it.

It's also possible something is wonky with your 'put together air system.' Aren't you just using an air compressor? When I do it I connect a compression tester with a broken one-way-valve to a compressor and screw that into the spark plug hole. I put the compressor at 100 psi and that does just fine at holding the valves up.

 

Yeah I just done the rope technique for changing them over, along with the valve spring compressor tool from euroexportinc.com which worked awesome.

I think its the best way to change them if you want to be relaxed and take you time, theres no chance of the air leaving the combustion chamber and letting the valve drop with the rope technique,

I used some 10mm rope, a bit like climbing rope material and its perfect, find top dead centre and use the opposite cylinder as it will be BDC, once it goes into the combustion chamber and circles round as much as you can cam in, turn the crank to jam the rope in position then start popping them retainers off

 

I hooked a complression tester to it and rotated it over by hand, since the engine is in my basement and I got horrible number doing it by hand.
30-60-30-60
I used a compression tester, removed the schrader valve on the end that screws into the head, used a plumbing pressure tester with a quick connect and a schrader valve to pressurize the cylinder.
So what your saying is just connect the air lin from the compressor to the quick connect on my compression tester and use the pressure regulator on my compressor to maintain 100psi? I might try the rope method, seems way easier. My concern is with how quickly the air flows out of the cylinder, sounds like past the rings and into the block.

 

This might sound like an elementary question but are you sure the cylinder you are working on is at TDC when you pressurize the cylinder? Cause if its not absolutely spot on the pressurized air will push the piston down and rotate the timing belt and open the valves.

 

Ummm, yeah I am sure, the air does push it down, but with the timing belt, cams and rockers removed the valves wont open.

Using the rope method, got the exhaust side done already, but what's the best method to seat the retainers after im done?