I've been reading about blue smoke and i know its oil related, but i wanted to know if there was a way to differentiate between the piston rings or valve seals.

From a dead stop, if i give it full throttle in first or second gear, i'll get some smoke gushing out. But then when im cruisin in any gear, i wont have any smoke come out.

If i start downshifting, and leave it in gear for a minute with NO throttle, i'll get a puff of smoke when i give it throttle again.

Basically, its not constant, and it only happens in the situations i just mentioned. Im not sure how to go about replacing or even inspecting the valves, i've never done that before.

Also, i have some oil seepage coming from the head/block seam on the dizzy side.

 

well it sounds like you need to take the head off regardless..
compression test would be kinda pointless as we all know its bad already.
how many miles are on it?
take off the head and pay $50 for a valve job at a machine shop.
when the head is off. wiggle the pistons back and forth for play.

 

180k on the odom anyways. as for the head, i dont know because i didnt do the swap. I've had the car for almost 2 months.

I have a brand new MLS headgasket so i'll probably attack this pretty soon. This will give me a chance to reset the timing and all that good stuff.

When you say "wiggle" the pistons, do you mean just press down on the top of the piston and try to move? because you cant wiggle it side to side.

 

if you cant wiggle it side to side that piston and ring is fine

 

I'll try this out sometime.

 

I had the same issue, I noticed it when I would constantly get this black crap on my bumper around my muffler. I had my friend drive it around and I followed it in another car. It had the same issue, smoke under hard acceleration, puff after coasting then throttle, etc. I took mine apart and replaced everything. One of the cylinders had a hot spot so I suspect that was were the oil was coming into the combustion chamber. This was in a D15B8 by the way. You may not be able to notice it has wiggle if the play is really small so also visually inspect the cylinder walls to look for any inconsistencies. Also, check for play at different piston heights. I've had a motor that had all perfectly seated pistons at TDC but all 4 leaned at BDC and everywhere in between.

Here's a pic of my B8 when I took it apart, notice #4 cylinder wall:





Close up of #4



You'll notice that the other 3 have the same problem developing, but #4 is substantially in worse condition. You couldn't even see the cross hatching anymore.

 

Wow dude, I bet im going to have a similar problem...but what did you do to fix this? Or have you taken care of it yet?

Wouldnt the only solution be another block?

 

I repaired it by doing a complete rebuild with an overbore (to ensure roundness of the walls) and new oversized pistons.





Take a look at your exhaust valves too, mine looked like this:

 

sounds like time for a gsr swap homey..........

 

somthin tells me that wasnt good ^^ lol

 

woooow, that block looks hella nice by the way. I couldnt see myself doing all that on a b8, though.

IF my cylinder walls are jacked up...im gonna find a z6 block and call it a day.

 

Doing what I did was most definitely not worth it if you want to go fast. For me, I just wanted experience rebuilding a motor from the ground up. My thinking was to do it on the B8 since it's a piece of junk, that way if I messed up I wouldn't care. After it was all said and done, everything worked out fine so I just left the B8 in my car and sold my GSR engine. Alot of money was invested into my B8 and I figured I would be wasting it if I didn't get any real use out of it.

My personal advice for you, if your motor is messed up like mine was just get a used motor unless you like to learn things the hard way like I do LOL

NOTE: Technically the B8 block is no different from a B7 block so if I were to do a Mini Me on it, it should be good to go considering I basically have a new block with a 75.5 bore. It's my daily though so I don't care to do anything to it outside of enjoying fuel efficiency.

 

I feel ya, im not trying to make my EG a "racer" anyway. I drive 90miles a day total back and forth to work, about 88 miles of that is all on freeway.

I get the puff of smoke occasionally, not that often, though. Unfortunately, i have the CX 5speed which is just about double the gear ratio of the SI/EX tranny.

Im temped to get an LS motor or a b16a since i dont have to buy aftermarket mounts.

 

im agreein with rick rabies, an by ur story to me it sounds like its doin it only when ur buildin oil pressure, so i may be pushin it past the rings an what not when u intreducing more oil psi.

 

Wouldnt that same logic apply to valve seals? while in gear, but NOT giving it throttle, the valve and pistons are still moving correct?

 

yes

 

How exactly would that be building up pressure? I dont think the compression(pressure) has unlimited gain....the compression should have a normal range on a sound engine.

So if everything is moving, the only thing thats difference is that the throttle isnt open.

 

It shouldn't be building pressure. After you start your car your oil pressure should hold steady, but when you slam the gas its going to increase slightly; and when your cruising it will even back out. But it could be either valve seals or piston rings.. I don't think your gonna find out without tearing it down and checking.

 

Yea, not looking forward to this, but could a headgasket be the problem?! haha.

 

fur shur!!

 

No, unless you have coolant in the oil or vice versa then your head gasket should be fine. Its definitely your rings or valve seals. Good luck with whatever you decide to do!

 

My father in law is a mechanic, he covered tail pipe with his hand and when he removed it, he had condensation on it and se said it didnt exactly smell like oild.

Plus, the smoke is a grayish color, not exactly "blue". I do have a leak coming from the dizzy side of the head/block.

 

There is a gasket that goes around the distributor thats notorious for leaking. Thats probably where the leak is coming from.. I would start there

 

I nkow what you're talking about, similiar with the vtec solenoid on dohc's. But this is coming directly from the head/block seam, the headgasket.

 

Seems like you have a problem then, there shouldn't be oil leaking from the headgasket