i just had a few questions. as of right now i have a built b20 with a built b16 head. but my b20 is on its way out. so im just going to build another block. i was thinking about building a b16 block. everything except for sleeves cuz thats a little out of my budget.

im planning on using 12.5 or 12.1 comp pistons with eagle rods. i have full fuel and a s300. im going to tune it on 93 either at NRG performance, yosolo, or jeff evans. my goal is 220-240whp. what type of power will i be looking at with this build? any info would be great.

and if you need anymore info from me, let me know.

 

Pretty high expectations from a B16, are you planning on using the b16 crank or the crank out of the B20?? What other mods do you have done??

Another question, why not freshen up the B20 block?

 

yea either use the b16 crank or i have a balanced and knife edged ls crankk in the b20 but im not sure if that would fit.

this is whats done to the car right now:

B20b block
Je 12.5:1 pistons
Eagle rods
Acl race bearings
Arp hardware
Balanced and knife edged ls crank
Mugen oil pan
Greddy ls/b20vtec conversion kit
B16b ( ctr ) head
Skunk2 tuner2 cams
Skunk 2 valve springs and retainers
Aem true time cam gears
Aebs intake manifold port matched to head and tb
Aebs throttle body 68mm
Hondata intake manifold gasket
Aem 3” hybrid intake
Aem 3” bypass valve
Walboro 255 fuel pump
Rc 440cc injectors
Hondata s300 tuned by jeff evans on 93 octane 220whp 157ftlbs
B&m fuel gauge
Autometer a/f gauge
Aem fuel pressure regulator
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
stage 3 clutch master clutch
B16 trans with hardened gsr gears and carbon coated syncros.

the b20 block is already bored out and i believe i migh have scored up the walls and i also read that the b20 is the weakest b series block. and im not looking for the b20 headache again.

you say high expectations? what hp are we talking about out of the b16 build that i would like to do?

 

bump if you view please

 

I think 190-210 whp out of a very well thought out b16 build (with stock stroke) is possible. See omniman's b16 build. You are going to have to look to specific parts i.e header, headwork, cams, intake manifold, t.b. etc. to work with the small stroke/very high revving b16 to get the job done. You're not going to just throw some parts together with a tri-y header and make it happen..... b16's are a different animal to make power with than either a 1.8 or 2.0 set-up. There is not nearly as much info on high hp b16's as most everyone either goes 1.8 or 2.0 when they decide to build.

With that being said your goal of 220-240hp is going to be nearly impossible with a streetable b16 set-up. Your B20vtec is at 220whp now and you are trying to make that or more while giving up .4ltrs of displacement..... its just not going to happen.

Here is a good thread all b16 set-ups... good luck with the build. B16's are cool little motors and can do some damage in a light car
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ght=b16+thread

 

so i would need a b18 or b20 to meet my goal? but would my parts fit on the b16 block?

 

just use your knifedged b20 crank in the b16. for your goals you can use the b16 rods. all you need is a set of forged pistons with the wristpin holes raised up,for that application. just use b16 rod and main bearings and you will be fine. it will give you a r/s ratio of around 1.60,wich is still a little higher and better than the b20/ls. it will be a 1.8 liter,and all the other parts should work fine,except you will need b16 head bolts/studs. with that said you wont make quite as much power with that r/s ratio,but you should reach your goal or be damn close to your goal of 220. hope this helps some,if you search there's a guy on hear that did that setup but with bigger bores and made really good #'s and he said the pistons where very dependable. you could just find another ls block to build,but it would be fun to let guys wonder how a b16 runs so good,LOL!!!

 

I don't think a LS/B20 crank will fit in a B16 block.

 

i have a B20 block if your interested call text ( 818) 602 - 0531

 

WTF! Yes it can..... someone explains how to do it a couple posts up! READ motherf*cker THEN post.

 

So, your saying that you personally have a 89mm crank in a B16? Or you have at least seen it done? Explaining how something may be possible and actually doing it are two different things. Use your brain, then post...

 

yes it can be done. all b series share the same main bearings and the b16 and ls/b20 cranks share the same rod bearing size,the only difference is the ls has the oiling holes in the rod bearing and the b16 doesnt since it uses oil squirters. like i said you just need the pistons. all you gotta do is search

 

or the other way around is b20/ls crank in b16 block, b20/ls rods/pistons and a deck plate ontop of block. either way its going to b a custom build, so just get ready to spend tha extra money if u wanna do it with the b16 block.... imo just find another b20 block, btw the sleeves are not weak, theres tons of boosted stock sleeves b20 making the 300-400hp range daily driven without a problem! the key to any engine is tunning!!!!

 

No, I haven't physically done it myself, but since I have a b16 swap in my eg and a b18b longblock it is something I've considered doing as well. So, I did what any intelligent person does.... I researched to see what exactly needs to be done and also the pros and cons. I didn't just write it off and spew my ignorance in a forum because I haven't done or "seen" it done....... that's something called ignorance.

BTW this is my last post to you, back to the ops topic.

 

I've done the research also. You have to move the piston pin up ~3.25mm if you were to use B17 rods, add 2mm if you use B16 rods. The problem isn't physically fitting the parts together, it's having an engine that will work efficiently. The rod to stroke ratio is horrible at 1.48:1 with the B17 rods and 1.50:1 with b16 rods. The rod angle would be so bad that notching the block to clear the rods might be necessary, especially with aftermarket rods. Forget about using the oil squirters.

BTW, you shouldn't use a word in it's definition.

 

Dude seriously?! You went from this statement....

To this..... where you try to explain a 89 crank in a b16 haha!

Nice job on using the search feature... you would have been alright if you did that before your initial post. Sorry you got butt hurt after my comment but the fact is that people that post what they "think" or assume is the problem with the AM forum. Regardless dude I'm done wasting time.

 

Having to grind the block means that it won't fit, at least without risking compromising the block. Reading comprehension is an important life skill. I didn't use a search feature. I used math, which is also an important life skill.

Until someone shows that it will fit, it is safe to assume that it will not fit. Feel free to prove me wrong. Show me that it will physically work.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/b16-build-up-pics-1780228/

 

Thanks.

 

You should read all the threads by people who have done this and had horrible problems due to the fundamentally poor geometry of this set-up.

 

Go back and reread my posts and you'll realize I never recommended this set-up to the OP. I was just stating the fact that it could be done, I personally see no benefit other than the novelty of having "b16" stamped on your block.

Some people have had success, others have had failure..... not unlike any other set-up on H-T.

 

Go back and re-read my post and you'll realize I never said you did. I am just giving the OP more information so he can make a better decision - that is the purpose of this forum.

 

The most hp I've seen out of a B-series is about 1000 and 700 lbs/tq. This thread is fun to read.

 

Right on man, completely agreed.