i have 220k miles on my crx si and basically just want to replace all wear and tear parts. what are the most common parts that need to be replaced?

 

You're going to spend a pretty penny if you want to replace ALL of the "wear and tear" parts.

You're thinking of bushings...

-steering
-suspension
-shift linkage
-ball joints

Check out this set, comes with most of what you will need
http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo....ber=ES16-18102

 

i wasnt thinking about only bushings and i have heard bad things about using those bushings you linked. i was thinking of ball joints, tie rods, oem bushings, control arms. if i was to order complete control arm assemblies, do the bushings already come preinstalled or do i have to buy them seperately and have them pressed in?

 

You will most likely have to have the bushings installed unless you are buying used and then you are right back where you started.

 

If you ordered new aftermarket lower control arms, make sure they come with the ball joint. I know they will come with the bushings and yes, they will be installed already.

OEM, like from Honda, lower control arms will have to be purchased sperately, and you will have to press all bushings and ball joint yourself. which isnt that hard by the way.

The only "bad" thing about those bushings i linked is that they squeek when wet.

 

To clarify my post above...I was referring to buying oem parts. As 4g4dcruisin pointed out there are after market options available.

Before using Poly bushings you should read this information:
Poly Bushings

This will save you some headache down the road.

 

Another thing, if you want some quality product that is aftermarket...check out Moog parts. They have pretty much everything rubber that comes for a honda, plus ball joints, complete upper control arms WITH ball joints, stuff like that.

The most expensive things you're going to replace will be the ball joints. a "quality" balljoint for the lower arm will cost you around $50.

 

so my best and least expensive option is to just purchase all new oem bushings and have them pressed into my existing suspension parts. is it not necessary to buy new upper and lower, front and rear control arms? also, buy new tie rods and ball joints? im wanting to get my suspension refreshed before i go and swap in my b16a

 

You dont "need" to buy the new LCA's or UCA's. Only if they are bent or cracked or something along those lines.

Get the prices together for all of your bushings, you can put in most of them yourself. The ball joints can also be put in by you + a 5lb sledge.

Are you going to be replacing your springs and shocks also?

 

yes, i am going to replace springs and shocks. im pretty much going to be rebuilding this crx si i just bought. i wanted to start with the suspension first. the car drives straight and good right now, i just figured with 220k miles, things need replaced before i swap my engine in. i plan on ordering all my new parts from hondapartsdeals.com. here is a pic of the crx im going to "rebuild"

 

Good plan.

I did it the other way around starting with the engine swap and still have to refresh all the bushings and such.

 

regarding this link, can you tell me then why i have has poly rear trailing arm bushings in my daily driven ek with absolutely no problems and have had them in there for a few years now? Also my CRX has poly bushings replacing EVERY bushing on the car and it was driven on with those for a few years and they are still in there now and I have no problems with the what so ever.

There is some "give" in poly urethane bushings, just not as much as rubber. Therefore it "stiffens" the suspension, not solidify it. His post is acting like it is a bushing with no play what so ever.

 

go with Moog suspension components...not only are they built like or even better than oem standards, they cost 3 times less than oem and have a lifetime warranty...
www.rockauto.com

 

if going with OEM style, I agree. Moog makes quality parts.

 

YMMV but if you read further into the post (you may have all ready) you can see pics of poly bushings that have failed due to not being designed for the 3 dimensional forces they were subjected to in the locations specified to avoid. This is simply advice that you can disregard as you wish. It's your car to do with as you will.

Since I don't race or autocross I plan on using rubber replacement parts because I prefer my daily driver to be more comfortable and I have yet had oem bushings not be performance enough. If you like poly bushings then more power to you. No skin off my back.

 

I obviously did read the entire post otherwise I wouldn't have known that someone was giving negative feedback about them or have been able to quote that person about the bushings lack of movement. All I was saying is how can this be when I have them on both my cars and have no problems like this what so ever.

Also, why is a red bushing charred black and why does it look ashy??? Looks to me like this car caught on fire and that is the remains or somebody tried to remove it by burning it out with a torch, but I could be wrong. All I know is that I drive my cars all the time and have put a LOT of miles on them and my bushings look nothing like those. My EK alone has had way more than 30k miles since the rear trailing arm bushings and I have no problems with them. I can take pics tomorrow if there are any doubts.

 

here is another option http://www.suja1motoring.com/product...px?productId=2

 

i want to stick with oem parts

 

suit yourself...my wallet and suspension are loving me everyday

 

I will be ordering some of those Moog parts for sure in the near future. I just wish they made more suspension bushings for the CRX.

@EFRue57...Honestly, if poly works for you and you are happy then that's great.
My intention isn't to say Not to use poly bushings but this is something to consider when looking at using poly bushings. Then make a decision from there based on what what the car owner feels is in his/her best interest. As with everything there are pro's and con's and it never hurts to know both.

 

Well said

 

I just did a complete suspension overhaul on my 1991 CRX Si. And the car handles like new and even better. I used a mixture of Moog, OEM and Energy Suspension components. And Moog products work great and you can not beat there pricing. But if you prefer OEM go for it. But it will not be cheap. I have used Moog products for years with no problems. And like others have stated Rockauto has the lowest pricing on Moog products. You can change out all of the suspension components yourself. Only thing is you might need to rent some tools from kragen or autozone. To take out the ball joints, rear trailing arm. Good luck and it will be rewarding in the end. I listed some info below about poly bushings and OEM below. Just so you get an idea of where poly bushings are okay to be used. I got this info from a reputable member on crxcommunity.com. And clean REX you got there looks just like mine.

Poly is ok:
Shift linkage bushings
Engine mounts
Steering rack
Front upper arms
Sway bar mounts and end links
Upper shock mounts
Front crossmember


Poly is NOT ok, use OEM or Mugen hard rubber:
Rear trailing arms
Lower control arms (front or rear)
Compensator arms
Rear upper arms

 

My car has full poly also with no problems (except the tie rod boots have ripped).

However, I do remember reading the same thing that was posted on here before I installed them. I think I disregarded it because the polyurethane set was cheaper for me at the time. If I was to do it over again I'd probably go oem on what they say just to be safe.

 

Im on a similar boat. I just picked up a '90 Civic Si with 169,xxx miles and Id like to replace the suspention components to make the car handle better through the corners. I know the Trailing Arm Bushing needs to be replaced, but I haven't look at the others. Any thoughts on what I should expect cost wise for something like this?

 

Just buy a complete bushing kit from PIC, $250 shipped. The are hard rubber, not poly and work amazing. I's never go back to OEM after running these. Work perfect for a slightly more aggressive DD with OEM quality and fit