Just got my car started after doing a couple things to my car. I have a 90 Honda Civic Dx. I did Auto to Manual conversion, power steering to non power steering Rack, and a DPFI to MPFI swap. Car just started but im getting codes 9 and 14, 9 is No. 1 cylinder position (1.6L) and 14 is Electronic Air Control (EACV). The other problem im having is once i turn my car with my ignition key, I not able to turn the car off wit it. I can turn the key to the off position and remove the key the motor keeps running. Can somebody help me with these problems....? please and thank you.... If some information that i might have left out is missing please lmk...

 

Anybody..?

 

code 14's prolly because youve either got the wrong plug going to the iacv/eacv, or the wrong coolant line...you can do an ohms check on the actual sensor...thats a very unlikely sensor to go bad tho

code9, possibly distributor...need ohmeter to check, but if your getting that code, your car should run an drive fine, but on start-up probably cranks a little longer than nessasary, that sensors for abnormal crank signal aka start-up

i got my dizzy 4rm a junkyard yard si for 40 bones, got that cylinder code, did my resistance+continuity checks, replaced dizzy and now alls good

 

code 9 is for the CYLinder sensor - the 2 wires for this sensor are 2 of the wires that were added when you did the DPFI to MPFI wiring changes - make sure that the added wires are going to the correct location at the distributor connector - wire from C1 should be matching up with the blue with green stripe and wire from C2 should be matching up with the blue with yellow stripe

Code 14 is for the EACV - is the ECU blinking 14 times? - if so, make sure that you have the correct connector plugged into the EACV - we see a lot of swaps with this problem that have the wrong connector plugged in - the correct connector is green in color and has 2-wires, blue with yellow stripe and black with yellow stripe - usually when this occurs, we see that the connector for the tandem control valve is plugged into the EACV - the tandem connector is a white connector with 2-wires, black with yellow stripe and orange - this connector isn't be used on the MPFI - when you did the DPFI to MPFI wiring changes, you would have needed to extend the wires to get the connector to reach the EACV - make sure the wires weren't switched

engine not shutting off when key is turned off could be a bad ignition switch or could be a problem in the wiring from doing the auto to manual swap

 

Jlicrx: So for code 9 there might be a chance if i pin them out and switch they're positions it might fix the problem..?
Code 14 is green. what about the coolant lines like the guy above you mentioned..? Is that a possibility..?
And then for the motor not turning off.. I didnt switch the ignition switch out and it worked fine before i did the swap.. Is it very unlikely that the switch wouldve gone out while doing the swap..? As far as i knw from all the writes of read on as far the auto to manual swap, theres only 3 wires changes for it. Being: the 2 thick gauge wires for the 12 volt source for the starter, running wires in from the tranny for the reverse lights, and another set of wires to be able to remove the key from the ignition as well as it thinking its in park... Any other ones you can think of..? Thnx for your help.. i will post some pix of the different wirings..

 

try it and see
coolant lines have nothing to do with the ECU code - has to be electrical problem - could be bad EACV, but more likely a bad connection

 

So even if the coolant lines aren't routed properly the EACV will function properly..? and do you mean about a bad connection..?

 

coolant lines not properly routed won't throw a Check Engine Light, but could make it not function correctly - could have a fluctuating idle

Check Engine Light occurs when something not right in the wiring at the connector or wrong connector plugged in or bad EACV