Here is my current build:

B18C (81mm x 87.2mm)
Arias 12.5 cr Pistons
Scat Connecting Rods
JG Pro Series Cyl. Head
Skunk2 Pro 3+ Cams
Skunk2 Pro Series Cam Gears
Crower Valve Springs
Crower Ti-Retainers
Victor X Manifold
OmniPower 70mm TB
Custom 3" Intake
Aeromtive FPR
AEM Fuel Rail
ID 725cc Injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
SSR Street Sweeper Header (open header)
Vibrant Timing Belt Tensioner
CTR Crank Pulley
B&R Catch Can Setup
Tuned on Hondata S300

The setup made 208.4 whp and 140.1 ft/lb of torque on a mustang dyno. That was with a Htyech Replica Header and RC 310cc Injectors. Still tuned on factory ignition. As far as fuel, its blended, 1 gallon of VP110 to one gallon of 91 octane. Its all factory deck height. But what do my fellow honda-tech-ers think, as far as where to go from here? Any tuning tips? Anything would be greatly appreciated.

 

Very impressive builld for a 81mm bore engine about 230-240 on a DynoJet.

What is the final compression ratio, about 13:1 ish?

You many want to look into changing the crank pulley to a damped one. ATI, Fluidamp, and UR has a new one under development.

To get more power out if this set-up, look into getting you IM cnc'd or a Magnus IM.
Increase your displacement, get your GSR block sleeved out to 84mm or a longer stroke crank. This really depends on your future plans with the engine.

 

Another thing is that the valve lash wasn't set correctly on the S2 cams also when dyno'ed. I had it set with the Crower Stg. 3's when I had those in the car but like a dumb*** I didnt set the lash on the new cams correctly. Some valves needed a couple rotations. It was scary bad. When they dyno'ed the car my stomach was in knots. So I brought the car back to house afterwards and brought the valves down to .006"-.007". So I am not sure if there were any substantial gains there. And now come to find out, I had my pro 3+ set at 0,0. I've never messed with v2v clearances before in my life and come to find out I was scary close to losing the motor. I think I need to do more research before I blow things up.

 

Those are good numbers. I'm thinking the performer X intake manifold would have been a better match on your engine. I'd be willing to bet it might give up say 5 whp peak but you'd gain a lot more area under the curve prior to that.

Move your cam gears to -1 INT and +3 EX for starters, 0-0 settings are BAD on those cams UNLESS you happened to get a new set of the Skunk cams that apparently have the same centrelines as stock, in which case 0-0 would be the correct and safe place to start. Only way to know for sure is to measure your V2V clearance at different cam gear settings.

Everything else looks pretty well matched on your build.

 

How about switching to Skunk2 pro 2's and like mentioned above going with a different intake manifold ie: Performer X by King Motorsports.

Otherwise thats a really nice setup, mine will be very similar to that when its done.

 

I agree with ditching the CTR pulley. It's junk, and you have a lot of money into your setup, get an ATi and some peace of mind. Your longblock will thank you with years of reliability