dohc zc + light flywheel?
ok so i was thinking of getting a light flywheel and a light crank pulley.
but i just wanna know if they are worth it?!?!
anyone try them b4?
also going with a 6 pluck clutch.
but i just wanna know if they are worth it?!?!
anyone try them b4?
also going with a 6 pluck clutch.
i drove a ls with a lightened flywheel and it drove like crap in my opinion...i dont like when you have to give some gas just to shift through gears...are you gonna track that zc dohc because thats a one way ticket to the state ref if you get caught with that motor...!!!
well if you dont mind swapping back to stock everytime you get caught then its well worth it...i miss my old zc dohc but i just dont want to have to deal with the one time anymore...!!!
I have (should say HAD) a DOHC ZC with 9lb flywheel. Personally, I loved it and wouldn't want it any other way. That is one rev happy little combo. I didn't have any issues with it either, just took some getting used to because it revs up real quick when you're trying to balance and drops RPMs real quick during shifting.
I don't know about the lightweight pulley, I hear different things about it ruining things because of the harmonic balancer or lack of one. I also hear people run them with no issues but unfortunately I don't have real world experience for you regarding that upgrade.
I don't know about the lightweight pulley, I hear different things about it ruining things because of the harmonic balancer or lack of one. I also hear people run them with no issues but unfortunately I don't have real world experience for you regarding that upgrade.
I have run a DOHC ZC with both and never had any kind of problem untill the wife killed the car under a Dodge Ram.
Will rev quicker but as said above will drop revs quicker too.
I think it will depend on the weight of the flywheel as to driveability,I wouldn't go below 10lb but thats just my opinion,and it will take a bit to get used to.
Will rev quicker but as said above will drop revs quicker too.
I think it will depend on the weight of the flywheel as to driveability,I wouldn't go below 10lb but thats just my opinion,and it will take a bit to get used to.
Clutch makes a difference in drive-ability too. The pulley is great if you are building for a class that limits the things you can do but you wont miss it otherwise. The flywheel is much more dramatic results-per-$.
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on the other note to the op i had this in my ef hatch, it ran funny till i got my altenator pulley, but the thing was super fast for d series
then i boosted it and i spun the bottom end
I had a 9lb on mine and I thought it was a slight noticeable difference, but I definitely would stay away from the lightened crank pulleys unless using a fluid type damper pulley like or something like that. If its out of balance, over time it will wear the bearings.
what are u guys talking about getting caught why would it be illegal for a dohc zc swap?? im confused
on the other note to the op i had this in my ef hatch, it ran funny till i got my altenator pulley, but the thing was super fast for d series
then i boosted it and i spun the bottom end
on the other note to the op i had this in my ef hatch, it ran funny till i got my altenator pulley, but the thing was super fast for d series
then i boosted it and i spun the bottom end

i would go 9lb on the flywheel. if your worried about the fuzz on the pulley then step off it. i would go like 12-14lb on the fly wheel. all motor or oem 9lb fly would kill it and make it doo doo to drive IMO. 12-14 is the best ive found for all motor or oem setup.
its all good i live in wa so it dont matter just thougt it was a weird thing to say
I'm not advocating for or against. Experience with light flywheels for me isn't in the riceburner arena. But, I do have some experience which we'll consider general experience.
That being said, if doing my own, I would lighten up flywheel and leave the stock weight crank pulley assy on it.
Why? Crank pulley as it's referred to here is a dual purpose piece or integrated piece of hardware. In the old days, before rice burners prowled the streets it was referred to as a harmonic balancer,
What it really is, a vibration damper. In the case of an engine a harmonic vibration damper.
The flywheel takes care of the other end of the crankshaft. I'm not going to write a book here or profess to be some great authority.
You are looking for a performance oriented change. Lightening up rotating mass in the engine via flywheel weight reduction is just that. The motor built for my Civic isn't going to run 200k milles. It may not run 100k miles. Why? Because I drive it hard. My driving profile will shorten the life of a STOCK motor as well. Abusive? I wouldn't call it that, but I run it hard.
So, your motor probably earns a living too. Without going to the extreme limits, lightening up the flywheel, as other posters have allluded to, ain't gonna hurt nuthin'. The change will be more in driveability than longevity for the flywheel end of the crankshaft.
You like the way they drive, so go for it. Advice seems to be around 9-10 lbs for a street car. Probably good advice.
Back to the balancer - oops, sorry, the crank pulley. Don't mess with that end. Flywheel is doing it's job damping motor harmonic vibrations and it's WAY heavier than what's on the other end, so a little mass reduction there won't make a significant difference in anything outside of driveability. And that is something you either like or you don't - jes like lowering the car. To keep your motor properly damped, the pully end needs to be full mass. Don't screw with it. As the naysayers say, it will rattle itself apart. Bad stuff.
Cheers dude!
That being said, if doing my own, I would lighten up flywheel and leave the stock weight crank pulley assy on it.
Why? Crank pulley as it's referred to here is a dual purpose piece or integrated piece of hardware. In the old days, before rice burners prowled the streets it was referred to as a harmonic balancer,
What it really is, a vibration damper. In the case of an engine a harmonic vibration damper.
The flywheel takes care of the other end of the crankshaft. I'm not going to write a book here or profess to be some great authority.
You are looking for a performance oriented change. Lightening up rotating mass in the engine via flywheel weight reduction is just that. The motor built for my Civic isn't going to run 200k milles. It may not run 100k miles. Why? Because I drive it hard. My driving profile will shorten the life of a STOCK motor as well. Abusive? I wouldn't call it that, but I run it hard.
So, your motor probably earns a living too. Without going to the extreme limits, lightening up the flywheel, as other posters have allluded to, ain't gonna hurt nuthin'. The change will be more in driveability than longevity for the flywheel end of the crankshaft.
You like the way they drive, so go for it. Advice seems to be around 9-10 lbs for a street car. Probably good advice.
Back to the balancer - oops, sorry, the crank pulley. Don't mess with that end. Flywheel is doing it's job damping motor harmonic vibrations and it's WAY heavier than what's on the other end, so a little mass reduction there won't make a significant difference in anything outside of driveability. And that is something you either like or you don't - jes like lowering the car. To keep your motor properly damped, the pully end needs to be full mass. Don't screw with it. As the naysayers say, it will rattle itself apart. Bad stuff.
Cheers dude!
Last edited by Dual-500; May 29, 2012 at 08:12 PM.
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