Ok so i finally got my car tuned and made 222.55whp and 146tq on 100 octane. yes i know...kinda sad. i was expecting at least 230+....any suggestions? i dont drive this car daily . im up for some new cams...was looking into some Skunk2 stage 3 tuner, Pro2's, Pro3, blox b's'...etc...let me know what yall think is best for my set-up...thanks






B20b Block stock sleeves
84mm
Cp 12.5.1 Pistons
Total seal rings
Eagle H beam rods
Arp Head Studs
Arp Rod Bolts
Oem Type R oil pump
Oem Water pump
Oem Timing Belt
Golden Eagle Vtec line (-4)


LSD 4.7 Tranny

B16 Head
5 angle valve grind intake
3 angle valve grind exhaust
Port an polished
Crower valve springs an retainers
Titanium valve guides
Ferrera 1mm oversized valves
Buddy Club Spec 4 Cams
skunk2 Cam Gears
Benen fuel rail
440cc injectors
TypeR manifold
Skunk2 TB 68mm
Head was Milled Thirty thousandths 0.030
Bisimoto V2 Prototype Header B series

heres some videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLatMJUr1XE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sNPbmCSyog

 

That isn't bad power. There is some more power in your intake manifold for sure. I would start there.

 

You could go to a higher reading dyno if all you want are numbers. See what it runs at the track and you'll have a better idea of what it actually makes. Run the pro 3 cams if you want more power but you'll need to carefully check your V2V clearances with using oversize valves. You should also clay your motor to find your limits of adjustment on your cam gears before you start tuning. My guess is that you'd need at least a 5 degree seperation between intake and exhaust cams just to start, as well as a 1 degree advance setting on both cams to offset the milling on the head.

 

i think thats decent power. i agree maybe try an edelbrock intake on there first and see what happens

 

People are still running those unorthodox crank pulleys?

Scary. I'd ditch that pronto!

I agree with 4 piston, first place to look for more power would be your intake... either get yours ported or get a victor X for top end

 

yeah i got rid of that already...my tuner couldnt do the timing because it has no marks on there so im running the stock one now...

i thought that mani was good enough but i guess i switch it up...i timed my car at Sacramento raceway on CMI...best time was low 12.9 at 118...i was running low 13's all day...goal is high 11's...

 

118 is rollin for that power level in that car. How much does it weigh? I went 118 on that much power but the car was 1850 and went 11.2

Try some good throttle bodies. They will make fat midrange over that manifold.

 

Skunk2 pro 2's are always a good choice

 

With 12.5 shelf pistons and a 30thou head mill, I would run Pro3's. I am running Pro3's and they make more power (everywhere) compared to Pro2's, BC5's, and two custom grinds. I have less compression too.

Be careful with your valve timing though. With 1mm oversized intakes, I would imagine lobe separation needs to increase an additional 4-5* to be safe. I would measure V2V to be absolutely sure.

Good luck.

 

118 in that chassis and with that whp is a lot, maybe he confused and post 118 instead of 108.

 

opps my bad...hahaa its 110 not 118...

 

what do u mean when u say custom grinds? how much power did u make with the pro3's...i am going to look into that...

 

I would start with the IM, go with the Edelbrock Victor X. That alone should get you over the 230 mark. There are two other options the Victor X cnc'd or a Magnus IM but these cost about 300-400 more than the base Victor X.

Then with the cams, Pro3 sound good, just watch the lobe separation with oversized valves and milled head.

Thanks for the post I am planning on a 2.0ltr race build as well. 100 octane, even. This gives me some ideas of what works and what doesn't. I will targeting 230-250whp in 2300lbs car.

You could change your injectors to ones with a better spray pattern.

 

i am going with the VictorX IM for sure...still deciding on the cams but kinda leaning towards the skunk2 pro3's...

no prob..you should built one...its fun to drive but one thing...you always want to go faster!!

 

Need pro3 & victorX....anybody knows any place in the bay area that got them for a decent price? Or website??

 

pro3 with +1 mm intake valve? i am not sure...

In my engine with pro 3 and 33mm intake valve my v2v spec are tight.

 

Yeah, never go to a dyno with "expectations." If it runs good, which I'm sure it does, be happy. A bigger dyno # than the next guy doesn't mean you have a bigger dick.

 

leave it alone and use q16 u will break the 230 mark......
or 240+ with soysauce lol!!!!!!

 

ok i found some Toda D's for sale for $350...and pro 3's for $450 both used...which one is better with my set-up?? thanks guys...

 

Pro-3's.

 

im just staring my build

 

i got my victorX mani already still looking for cams..looking at some Blox cams cause they are cheaper...what do your guys think about the BLOX B's/ S2 Pro2's?

 

looking to buy some this weekend and get it retuned...

 

I have blox b's if your interested, I don't really wanna sell em but if you pm me a good enough offer Ill let them go. or maybe trade for your cams and a little cash.

 

Blox recommends not to use Oversized Valves with the Type B's... anybody ever ran them together? or i shouldnt do it??