92 eg hatch with right now:
stock b18a block
stock b16a2 head
aem cai
3 in custom exhaust straight pipe
dc headers
walboro fuel pump
ngk wires
b16a2 trans
b16a2 ecu (not sure)

i have these things now and ready to install when i get the whole gameplan down:
port matched b16a2 head
crower valvetrain
p73 manifold
650cc injectors
hondata s200 w p73 ecu
thermal intake mani gasket
aem cam gears
benen fuel rail

Im debating on pr3 pistons, rmf header, and 68mm blox tb. I am definately getting vtec waterpump, oil pump, timing belt, arp bolts n studs and acl bearings soon. So my question is what cams should i go with on this setup? I originally thought the skunk 2 stage 2 but now ive been suggested to use jun 3. Idk what to do here and the cams and pistons are holding me up along with the whole process to go about the whole upgrade with all the mods i have. What do i need machined? Should i machine first then install everything and tune? Or do i install some things first, tune, then install the rest and tune again? What are my piston options along with my cam options? I imagine with the b16a2 head i should stick with something that makes power in the higher rpm bands but this is a semi daily driver with occasional stoplight to stoplight street.
Please, ive been doing my research on here and ive learned alot but for my particular setup i could use some advice from more knowledgable vets here.
Thanks

 

help?

 

for the cams id say the skunk2 just cause itll be less harsh on your engine since its gonna be a semidaily driver and theyre alot cheaper then jun

 

skunk2 stage 2 or pro 1? those were the two skunks i was looking at.

what about the copies of the toda cams? who makes those?

pr3 pistons? Come on guys i need a little more input

 

Use JDM ITR pistons if possible. The skunk2 tuner 2, or pro 1's are both good cams and will make close to the same power in VTEC with the pro's being much stronger below vtec. Jun 3's or Blox C's (same cam profiles) are an excellent cam making as good or better power in VTEC over the S2S2's or pro 1's with the pro's again making better power below VTEC. The pro cams work better than the older toda cams in general at a much lower price, so I wouldn't consider them.

 

why do you recommend the itr pistons? im upgraded on valvetrain so id like something more aggressive.

so pro1 is more of an overall band

 

ITR pistons have slightly deeper valve reliefs than P30 pistons do as well as a slightly taller compression height which gives you a little more compression. The piston skirts are also coated with a lubricant as well. Both pistons are good as an OEM piston, but the ITR pistons are slightly better performance wise. Pro 1 cams give a very broad power band yes.

 

what order should i do all my work?

 

Get your block bored and honed for the new oversize pistons and build it first, then go to the head, then tuning system.

 

sorry i misread your post on the itr's the first time, i thought you were talking about cams. yeah i was gonna do itr pistons i saw on ebay but they are gone now. then i read conflicting info on the pr3 vesus the p73 and people said pr3 has higher compression. Would you say with my planned setup, eagle hbeam rods are worth it or save my money for somewhere else?

 

So what do u guys think of my planned build?

 

The conflicting info regarding the pistons is because people put to much faith into the online compression calculators which aren't all that accurate, they are only "ball park".

The ITR pistons offer a few advantages over the P30/PR3 pistons and are not as much of a disadvantage as many believe compression wise. If I had the choice, Jdm ITR pistons are what I would always go with. The eagle rods should work fine or just have Arp rod bolts installed in your stock rods.

 

ok ill listen to you, now i just have to find some p73 pistons. So the forged rods are not necessary reliability wise? I was going to put arp rod bolts in no matter what.

 

im kinda thinking of getting a b20 cheap and using the block with my b16 head and trans...... good idea?

 

Reliability wise, it should be ok for a long time on stock rods with ARP rod bolts. If you're running it up to 9000 RPM daily and really beat on the motor, the Eagle rods would be a better choice for reliability.

The B20 block is ok except that you'll need to change the pistons if you want to run any cams larger than ITR/CTR as they'll hit the stock pistons because they don't have large enough valve reliefs in them.

 

thanks for the help. i dont beat on the motor too much so stock rods ill stick with.

im leaning towards the skunk2 pro 1's and the Blox C not too sure yet i need to look at dyno numbers etc and get more opinions.

i appreciate the help and im eager to learn more on honda tuning etc compared to before when i just wanted to turbo my car now im more interested in all motor builds.

Any more opinions n help would be nice.

 

I have toda spec b camshafts for sale

 

Used? And what are the characteristics of that cam?

 

They're a road race cam, giving good down low, lots of midrange and decent top end, similar to the Skunk pro series cams except the pro's should have a little better top end.

 

its either the pro1 or the blox c, the blox is cheaper but im not sure yet. which would be more traffic driven friendly (i live in hawaii)?

 

Both. As with most any cam, what makes it daily drivable is the skill of the tuner. If you don't have access to fairly good tuners, go with the Blox C cams as they are more of a "drop in and go" cams and easier to tune. Pro's require more knowledge and skill to install and tune but will make more power in the low to midrange area and be similar in the top end.

 

thanks for the tips and advice im in your debt lol. at least someone decided to chime in on the topic.

off topic what do you think about flywheel weight? i see you have a 9lb, i was looking at a 7.5 fidanza and a 8.8 act pro. Does it become more difficult to drive the lower the weight or in this case lower the better? im not sure ive never driven a car with a lightened flywheel. i know acceleration increases and decelleration will drop faster as well? i guess im asking would the difference in weight be much and if the lighter might be detrimental to the build

 

I like the lighter flywheel on a 1.8L and larger motor as I only notice the benefits. On a 1.6L b16a, I don't like the lighter flywheel in daily driving situations.

 

why is that? just too high rev with high gear ratios or what?

 

The b16a doesn't have much torque to begin with so when you switch to using a lighter flywheel, you lose some rotational inertia that helps get you moving off the line with having to give it lots of gas. I can tell you it was a pain in the *** driving my old b16a with that lightened flywheel in traffic or trying to pull out onto a main road with the A/C on, the car nearly fell flat on it's face as soon as I let the clutch out. When I put that flywheel on my 1.8L, it drives with no problem since the 1.8 has a lot more torque to begin with so you don't notice the rotational inertia loss as much.